Hi, a few questions. I'm one of the guys that are suspecting a bearing problem because I feel a cyclic vibration at speed. I guess first I should ask how I can check for worn bearings?

Assuming it is bad, some other questions. First, does anyone have a good procedure to replace front bearings? I searched around here and didn't find too much so I thought I'd ask. Next where are some good places to buy them? Forum vendors? Local shops? Last, how hard is this to do. I was advised that most backyard mechanics can do, but am interested in other opinions. Any special tools or "gotchas"? How long a job is it.

As always, much thanks

 

 

I had a bad driver's wheel bearing and replaced it. I kind of figured it was bad because when I drove the car and got a Wha Wha sound only on right turns. If the bearing is indeed bad, it will probably be noisy on medium speed turns around curves. If you turn right and hear a noise, it's the left bearing. Turn left and you hear noise it's the right one. The bearing's under most stress opposite where you are turning. Also, get the car in the air and pull (rock back and forth) on the suspect wheel. Pull on all the wheels for comparison. If you have a lot of play, then the bearing's probably going. It's not a hard job, but you need the right tools. I got my bearing (Timkin) from Advance Auto, look at Rock Auto, Auto Zone, O'Reily for the best price. I think they are all Timkin. The bearing itself is attached to the steering knuckle by three Torx bolts. You'll have to remove the steering knuckle in order to get the bad bearing out. You'll see why, the ball joint nut/bolt blocks access to one of the Torx bolts. You'll need a ball joint kit rental from your local auto parts store. It contains the presses and pickle forks you'll need to get the steering knuckle out. Steps:

1) Get car on jackstands, remove front wheel, disconnect the speed sensor connector from the bearing and move aside
2) Using the proper metric allen wrench and metric wrenches/sockets, undo the tie rod end nut, upper and lower control arm ball joint nuts
3) Using the parts from the ball joint tool kit, seperate the tie rod and the upper and lower control arm ball joints from the steering knuckle. READ THE INSTRUCTIONS! CAUTION: Use the press in the kit and not the pickle fork, or you may wind up tearing the ball joint rubber dust shields. Be careful, the contol arm ball joints are pressed into the control arms and are VERY expensive to replace. usually, you wind up having to buy a new control arm w/ball joint. PROTECT THOSE RUBBER DUST SHIELDS!
4) Remove the steering knuckle, inspect all your rubber dust shields for tears.
5) remove the three Torx bolts and remove the defective bearing
6) Clean up the steering knuckle, and install the new bearing using the three Torx bolts. Torque to spec.
7) Reinstall the steering knuckle/bearing assembly
8) Tighten the ball joint nuts to torque spec.
9) Attach tie rod end to steering knuckle and tighten nut to spec
10) Reconnect the speed sensor connector DO NOT FORGET TO DO THIS
11) Remount the wheel, get it off the jackstands and road test
12) You don't need a realignment.

Good Luck! Figure about three hours time.

 

This link, posted the other day has excellent pictorials.
http://www.jakelatham.com/c5/misc/

 

I replace the bearings often in these cars

$275 front or rear, new Timken units

 

The right turn noise left bearing bad analogy is not always correct. In order to truly check the bearing you need to remove the rotor and feel the bearing rotate with no load.

Either way I would replace both fronts even if only one was bad. I have always been told that when working on the brakes and suspension when something is done on one end should be done on the other end of the same axle.

I just replaced a friends front wheel bearings on his C5 and it took about 2 hours to do both.

 

You can't test a wheel bearing under load sitting on jack stands. The noise check advice while under load came from Pat Goss of Motorweek. I'll trust his advice. It's one of several checks you should do prior to replacing one. Worked for me, the bearing was indeed bad. I didn't have to replace both. It's been 9,000 miles since I changed the 1 bearing and no indicated problems with any other.

 

Aside from the possible noise, did you pick up a vibration-rhythmic in feel when driving on smooth roads?

 

I have a 98 also and have been chasing a vibration problem for sometime since putting on new wheels and tires. Here is what I have done; Vibration starts at 55 and becomes worse as speed increases.
1. Road forced balanced all wheels and tires
2. Had dealer check the bearings out, all fine
3. Had the car realigned-4 wheel
4. Put on hub centric rings to insure the wheel was centered on the hub.
5. While all have helped to some degree, I'm in the process of changing wheels back to stock.
6. I also suspect wheel dynamics as playing a big role. By this all wheel weights are generally placed on the inside of the wheel drum where required. None are generally placed outside unless possibly from the factory as it breaks up the appearance, and on chrome or plastic coated wheels it lends to scratching. I will be placing weights on the outside of the wheel with hopes that will eliminate the rhymthic vibration percipitated by wheel dynamics upset with improper weight placement.
I'm getting frickin tired of chasing this demon and want a vibration free ride (absent what you get from the road itself with your rear five inches from the ground).

 

Can you borrow a set of rims and tires that are known NOT to vibrate to isolate the issue? My rims were bent and I had a similar issue.

In my experience- a bad wheel bearing usually results in a grinding/growling sound that may change depending on which way the car is steered (because of the weight shifting)

 

I did get the type of vibration you are talking about before I replaced the front bearings. Mine had around 62,000 miles when I changed them out. I still have a slight vibration above 70 MPH, I am going to do the rear bearings soon. I liked both of the proceedures above, but I fail ro see why you have to disconnect the tie rod end. I just turnthe wheel as far as it would go and had plenty of room to remove the three bolts. I hat tearing something down unless you have to. Just my $.02.

 

TSB on checking lateral run out, if it's off, wheels will vibrate.

Brakes - Brake Rotor Lateral Runout Correction

File In Section: 05 - Brakes

Bulletin No.: 01~05-23-001A

Date: March, 2003

INFORMATION

Subject:
Brake Align(R) System for Brake Rotor Lateral Runout Correction

Models:
2003 and Prior Passenger Cars

This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-05-23-001 (Section 05 - Brakes).

This bulletin is being issued to update General Motors position on correcting brake rotor lateral runout (Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 00-05-22-002B for additional brake rotor service procedures).

Important: Certain conditions may apply to individual vehicles regarding specific repairs. Refer to those specific repairs in applicable service bulletins. Make sure other possible sources of brake pulsation, such as ABS pedal feedback, have been addressed before checking rotor runout.

Anytime a new or refinished rotor is installed on a vehicle, the rotor must have .050 mm (.002 in) or less of lateral runout. This specification is important to prevent comebacks for brake pulsation. Until now, the only acceptable methods to correct brake rotor runout were to index or replace the rotor or to refinish the rotor using an on-vehicle brake lathe.

GM has approved a new technology for the correction of lateral runout on new or refinished rotors. This new method is called Brake Align(R) It will allow the technician to meet the .050 mm (.002 in) or less requirement for lateral runout by installing a specially selected, tapered correction plate between the rotor and the hub. The Brake Align(R) Correction system does NOT require the use of an on-vehicle brake lathe to correct for lateral runout.

* We believe this source and their products to be reliable There may be additional manufacturers of such products. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any responsibility for the products from this firm or for any such items which may be available from other sources.

The Brake Align(R) Starter Kit will include an ample supply of Correction Plates, in various correction sizes, that will cover most current GM passenger car applications It will also include a Brake Align(R) tool kit containing a dial indicator and retaining washers along with other useful tools.

Service Procedure

Follow all the procedures referred to in Corporate Bulletin Number 00-05-22-002B. Dealers who have purchased the Brake Align(R) Starter Kit may use the following simplified runout correction procedure:

1. The existing rotors must first be machined on an approved, well-maintained bench lathe to guarantee smooth, flat and parallel surfaces. Should the rotors require replacement, please note that this is not necessary to machine new rotors.

2. Make sure all the mating surfaces of the rotor and the hub are clean, using the J 42450-A Wheel Hub Cleaning Kit. Mount the new or refinished rotor onto the vehicle hub onto the vehicle hub using the retaining washers provided in the kit. Do not reinstall the caliper or wheel at this time.

3. Tighten all the wheel nuts to the proper specification, using J 39544 Torque Socket or the equivalent.

4. Fasten the dial indicator to the steering knuckle so that the indicator needle contacts the rotor friction surface approximately 12.7 mm (1/2 in) from the rotor's outer edge.

5. Rotate the rotor and observe the total runout.

6. Index the rotor on the hub to achieve the lowest amount of lateral runout. This will require removal and reassembly of the rotor until the lowest total lateral runout reading is obtained. If this reading is .050 mm (.002 in) or less, the assembled rotor is within specification The brake system may be reassembled.

7. If total lateral runout is greater than .050 mm (.002 in), proceed with determining the correct Brake Align(R) Correction as follows:

^ Rotate the rotor to locate the lowest dial indicator reading and set the dial to zero.

^ Rotate the rotor to determine and locate the highest amount of lateral runout.


8. Remove the rotor.

9. Select the appropriate Brake Align(R) Runout Correction Plate for this vehicle.

Important: Never attempt to stack two or more Correction Plates together on one hub.

Never attempt to re-use a previously installed Correction Plate.

10. Following the Brake Align(R) procedures and diagram, install the Correction Plate onto the vehicle between the hub and the rotor. The V-notch in the Correction Plate is to be installed and aligned with the noted location of the "high spot" on the vehicle hub and marked wheel stud.

11. Install the rotor onto the vehicle with the Correction Plate placed between the hub and the rotor. Be sure to install the rotor onto the hub in the same location as identified in Step 7.

12. The rotor should then be secured onto the hub and tightened to the proper specificating. The rotor should be dial indicated once more to assure that the rotor is now within specification.

The brake system is now ready for the remaining service and assembly. Once the caliper has been installed, check to ensure that the rotor rotates freely.


Parts Information

 

go to this site;
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/2006...el_bearing.asp
good step by step & pictures

 

Are you saying you did not disconnect either the tie rod or the ball joint, or did you not disconnect the tie rod, but had to disconnect the ball joint?

 

I did two FR bearings in my driveway. The lower ball joint needs to be loosened so the the bottom torx head cap screw, that holds the bearing in place, can be backed out. No other ball joints need to be touched.
I also suggest a good one piece T-55 torx head socket. The El Cheapo two piece socket I had twisted apart at about 50ft-#s. The torque spec. is 96ft-#s, so get a good one piece socket!

 

Is the lower arm under tension? In other words, will I have to worry about the lower control arm flying down once the lower ball joint is removed? It doesn't look like it to me, but I'm trying to get my ducks in a row here.

 

I think if the suspension is at it's lowest travel, it will not be under much, if any, tension. If in doubt you can always position a floor jack underneath the bottom of the ball-joint just in case. Position it so there is about a 1/4" gap between it and the ball joint's bottom side.
Apparently there is no need to remove the lower ball joint completely. It does need to be lowered enough (need to remove the nut) to get clearance to get at one of the three Torx bolts holding the bearing assy in place.

 

Thanks for the input.

By any chance, does anyone know why the Jake Latham procedure pics include a 5-6" C Clamp as one of the tools? I can't see anywhere in the article that calls for its application.

 

The only thing I can think of for the clamp may be to press the piston back in for the brake. I didn't read the article though. But I have replaced my front hub bearings.

On a side note if any of you guys want to get rid of your bad bearings I need 2 for an end table idea I have. I can pay for shipping.

Ricky

 

That's what I thought, but the author removed his disc and caliper as one assembly with the disc still clamped onto the disc. Maybe he was going to use for collapsing th piston, but when he got into the job he decided to keep them the disc and caliper together as a unit.

If you're serious, I'll keep mine for you, and let you know when I'm done.