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Hurst shifter blues

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Old May 17, 2007 | 03:24 AM
  #1  
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Default Hurst shifter blues

Has anyone had problems installing a Hurst shifter into a 64?

I'm trying to get mine installed and the reverse lever is hitting the cross member. I'm I doing something incorrect? Or is there some mod that is required.

Any help or suggestions will be great

Cheers
Chris
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Old May 17, 2007 | 08:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Chris64
Has anyone had problems installing a Hurst shifter into a 64?

I'm trying to get mine installed and the reverse lever is hitting the cross member. I'm I doing something incorrect? Or is there some mod that is required.
Chris,

Just a hunch..... the shifter you are trying to install has a reverse lever that is straight, and longer than either of the levers for the forward gears, yes?

If that's the case, then you will probably be able to do the install if you used a different model Hurst shifter. Specifically, the HUU-3917960 (Summit Racing part number) has a reverse lever that is angled 90 degrees and which will probably clear the crossmember.

You might end up having to hand fabricate the reverse rod to connect the shifter to the transmission, but this isn't tough to do. Some hardware store 3/8" steel rod stock will do it.

Hope this helps.

Jim
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Old May 17, 2007 | 10:21 AM
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If grinding the bottom of the reverse lever will give clearance, it won't hurt the shifter - reverse is not a gear that gets power shifts.

Alternatives before/after grinding are cut and weld the reverse lever, or shim the rear engine-trans mount.
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Old May 17, 2007 | 11:42 AM
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I vaguely recall shimming the transmission mount with flat washers and grinding a little off the reverse tab to get it to clear on my '65.
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Old May 17, 2007 | 11:46 AM
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Double check and make sure you have right parts for your application. Hurst Comp Plus Shifter part #530-391-7960 with the Hurst Install Kit part #530-373-3162 are the right ones for your car I believe.
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Old May 17, 2007 | 12:06 PM
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I had a Hurst in my '64 (now a Keisler). When I got the car, the "pipe hanger" that bolts under the trannie was missing. I put the pipe hanger on to better center the pipes through the frame, and found I couldn't get the car in reverse. It seems that the Hurst reverse linkage hits this hanger. A moto-tool grinder was used to slot the hanger in the proper place and the trannie then shifted fine.

Maybe this is where you are hitting too? If not, and you have the hanger in-place, you probably will hit and will also need to slot it.
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Old May 17, 2007 | 12:13 PM
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You are correct, the shifter that I have all three levers are straight and the reverse is longer then the other two.

As for shimming I think I would need almost 1/4" that seems excesive.

The interferance is the bottom of the reverse linkage to the cross member.

Thanks
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Old May 17, 2007 | 12:18 PM
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Just a thought but can the mounting plate that mounts the shifter to the trans have the holes slotted out to allow it to move up allowing clearence to the cross member?

Chris
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Old May 17, 2007 | 02:02 PM
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It will raise the whole shifter into the boot. If you intend to make a mod , IMO drill a new hole in the reverse lever and cut it shorter.

I ground mine and shimed the mount.
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Old May 17, 2007 | 04:43 PM
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How about using the right CORVETTE hurst tower with the reverse arm made in the forward position?. Linkage to match. There is difference in corvette towers. All the towers I have are made with the reverse arm forward. Anything else is Bubba. Its not worth changing the angle of the dangle with shims. IMO
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Old May 17, 2007 | 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by blubu
How about using the right CORVETTE hurst tower with the reverse arm made in the forward position?. Linkage to match. There is difference in corvette towers. All the towers I have are made with the reverse arm forward. Anything else is Bubba. Its not worth changing the angle of the dangle with shims. IMO
I agree. I also have forward reverse arm. No problems at all.
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Old May 17, 2007 | 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by blubu
How about using the right CORVETTE hurst tower with the reverse arm made in the forward position?. Linkage to match. There is difference in corvette towers. All the towers I have are made with the reverse arm forward. Anything else is Bubba. Its not worth changing the angle of the dangle with shims. IMO
Actually it was a fortuitous change. The dif angle to the driveshaft was 1.5° and the trans angle was zero. Now both are 1.5°, which is about perfect for no driveshaft vibrations.

Get your angle finder out before you decide a shim is a bad idea.
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Old May 18, 2007 | 12:32 AM
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Default angles

Originally Posted by magicv8
Actually it was a fortuitous change. The dif angle to the driveshaft was 1.5° and the trans angle was zero. Now both are 1.5°, which is about perfect for no driveshaft vibrations.

Get your angle finder out before you decide a shim is a bad idea.
Opinions are just that. I would ask you the same thing? Why should you have to shim it to excess. As far as your tools or suggestion therof all you have to do? Drive the car it will tell you . I bought a chevelle with two bushings that go in the crank used as spacers between the rear mount and tranny . Did it work yeah.
Was it right? I measured it one day and figured out some BUBBA had put a crossmember in it that had the pad removed to lower back of tranny WHY?? I dont have a clue. Right parts are always best.
I will stand by my opinion. You stay with yours .Its all good .
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Old May 18, 2007 | 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by blubu
Opinions are just that. I would ask you the same thing? Why should you have to shim it to excess. As far as your tools or suggestion therof all you have to do? Drive the car it will tell you . I bought a chevelle with two bushings that go in the crank used as spacers between the rear mount and tranny . Did it work yeah.
Was it right? I measured it one day and figured out some BUBBA had put a crossmember in it that had the pad removed to lower back of tranny WHY?? I dont have a clue. Right parts are always best.
I will stand by my opinion. You stay with yours .Its all good .
Your opinion is a good one. I merely stated that the shim I installed would have been necessary (to eliminate the vibration I had been chasing for months), whether or not I was installing a Hurst.

I had gotten my half shafts rebalanced, indexed my drive shaft a half turn in the diff yoke and then in the trans yoke, replaced the trans output shaft bushing, and the pilot bearing - all to no avail. The driveshaft angle was the culprit.
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Old May 19, 2007 | 02:07 PM
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Default hurst

Originally Posted by magicv8
Your opinion is a good one. I merely stated that the shim I installed would have been necessary (to eliminate the vibration I had been chasing for months), whether or not I was installing a Hurst.

I had gotten my half shafts rebalanced, indexed my drive shaft a half turn in the diff yoke and then in the trans yoke, replaced the trans output shaft bushing, and the pilot bearing - all to no avail. The driveshaft angle was the culprit.
I have the same problem with a vibration?? I too have had all shafts balanced as well as rear end new brgs evrywhere whls and tires balanced. To no avail. When you lean on car. she will shudder from the rear. I have no idea where it comes from. Tulsa driveline specialist
Has checked it and rechecked it. You can put car on stands in the rear and unload suspension. Vibration is not there but the angle of car does not change as when you have car on ground under load??
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Old May 20, 2007 | 05:38 PM
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I don't want to hijack this thread, so I will move the reply to a new thread.
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Old May 20, 2007 | 06:33 PM
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You can change the reverse lever in the shifter to the correct one then get a new rev rod or shorten the old one.
I have an old Corvette Hurst shifter on ebay now.
It is one of the old ones with the cool big Hurst letters and has the offset reverse lever.
here is the link
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...7613&rd=1&rd=1
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