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Brake master cylinder R&R questions - rounded bolts...

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Old May 18, 2007 | 09:33 PM
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Default Brake master cylinder R&R questions - rounded bolts...

Hi guys. I'm in the process of trying to replace my master cylinder on my 92. The aluminum hard lines are the problem. The front one (the bigger one) came off nice and easy. The rear one is being a pain. The rear one is slightly rounded already.

Before I screw things up, what is the correct size flare wrench for the rear one? I was told an 11 mm but with it being somewhat thrashed already, I can't get a standard 11 mm wrench around it. The 12 will go on but feels just a tad loose.

My next question is, can I replace this fitting? I'd imagine that if this thing gets at all worse, I'm definately going to have to replace it. Can this be done easily or is it going to be a major chore? I don't know much about the aluminum lines, but I'd imagine that you put the piece on there and then flare the aluminum so that it won't slide off and is pushed against the fitting as it's cranked down. Any info on the replacement of this part would be helpful.

The car currently has no brakes, so I can't really drive it anywhere. I'd have to tow it to the shop if it's something that the shop needs to handle. I have the new master cylinder here and ready to go but this fitting is driving me nuts!!!!
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Old May 18, 2007 | 10:06 PM
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yea you can replace, but you'll need a flare tool, fitting and be careful, not alot of line... If it already rounded i'd be careful using any wrench that can round more....
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Old May 18, 2007 | 10:09 PM
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(Softly exhaling ...)

Frustrated beyond belief

And the lines are not aluminum.

.
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Old May 18, 2007 | 10:16 PM
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Flare nut wrenches will be a little loose, but it does grip on 5 sides of the nut.

The threads are 12mm metric, so the hex has to be metric also. 7/16" is inbetween 11mm and 12mm, give that a shot.

If nothing else, get some vice grips on there, preferrably the ones where the jaws wrap around partway, and clamp that sucker on there and twist. It will mangle the fitting, but it will be reusable (with vice grips), and it sure beats putting a new fitting and reflaring the tube, or paying a mescamic to fix it.
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Old May 18, 2007 | 10:43 PM
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damn, this is frustrating....

I tried the 12. It just spins on there. I tried several sets of pliers but this thing is really on there. I already sprayed it with liquid wrench. Man, I could strangle whomever put this tiny fitting on this thing. The 14mm large one came off with a regular wrench even. This sucks.
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Old May 18, 2007 | 11:17 PM
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Don't use pliers!!!!

Use these, nothing else will work at this point.

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Old May 19, 2007 | 12:31 AM
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I tried using those. Whomever worked on this car last and over tighted the damn thing.... arrrggg!!!!

I ended up cutting the fitting in half using a cutting wheel. I had that one 70's song that goes "no more mr. nice guy..." playing in my head as I did it.

I got a double flare tool kit from autozone. What size is flare again? It has 4.75 and 5.

Also, I just installed the drm spring in the assembly in my old master. Do I have to remove it from that assembly and reinstall it in the new one or can I just swap the assemblies?

Thanks for the help guys. This would have sucked without reading the threads and getting the advice.
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Old May 19, 2007 | 01:07 AM
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Originally Posted by qwiketz
I got a double flare tool kit from autozone. What size is flare again? It has 4.75 and 5.
Wrong tool.

Your car requires an ISO Flare, aka Bubble Flare as discussed in Performance Nut's
thread - link provided earlier.

You might want to pick up some pre-made brake tubing to practice on before
going 'live'.

Read what PN had to say about using the flaring tool and about bending the
OEM tubing. He had some photos and text but these were later edited.

.
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Old May 19, 2007 | 02:05 AM
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Advice..be sure the new nut you buy ill even thread into the hole(s).

Sometimes people that worked on the car in the past,cross threaded the old stuff and when you finally get it off,the threads inside for the new nut on the line wont even go in.

Be sure its all good before assuming it was just the nut that was bad on the line.The MC is way stronger but be sure the threads inside are good too.

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Old May 19, 2007 | 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
Don't use pliers!!!!

Use these, nothing else will work at this point.

Actually, you need these:



These vise grips are made for just this sort of thing.
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Old May 19, 2007 | 08:58 AM
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Originally Posted by eschoendorff
Actually, you need these:



These vise grips are made for just this sort of thing.
I've never seen those before. Gots to get me sum-a dem!
BTW, a small pipe wrench often works well for such problems too.
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Old May 19, 2007 | 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by eschoendorff
Actually, you need these:



These vise grips are made for just this sort of thing.
Looks like a friggin' parrot !
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Old May 19, 2007 | 01:37 PM
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I replaced a MC nut a while back using ISO bubble flare tool. I had to order this flare tool kit online as I could not find it at any local auto parts stores.

Here's a writeup I did.....

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1589717

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Old May 19, 2007 | 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeC4
I replaced a MC nut a while back using ISO bubble flare tool. I had to
order this flare tool kit online as I could not find it at any local auto parts stores.

Here's a writeup I did.....

New Brake booster/MC and ISO bubble flare finished!

.
Very nicely done.

Your posts and pictures will be a great help to people who need to
repair brake line fittings.

.
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Old May 19, 2007 | 03:41 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeC4
Looks like a friggin' parrot !
Oh my god that funny ****
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Old May 19, 2007 | 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Repzard
Oh my god that funny ****
Yeah, but that parrot won't round yer nuts.
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Old May 19, 2007 | 03:45 PM
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Some key remarks by MikeC4 in his thread
  • Do not forget to put on the new flare nut before you flare your brake line!
  • I bought 3 feet of 3/16" brake tube to practice on. I made about 5 practice
    Bubble flares until I felt comfortable enough that I could do it correctly
    on the real brake line.
  • When making a flare, it is recommended to put small amount of brake fluid
    on the tip of the brake line for a "cleaner" flare. This helps reduce the
    friction between the flare fitting and brake line as you are turning the crank!
  • Best to have 2 people on this job, 1 to hold the flare clamp, and the other to turn the
    crank. Bubble flares require much more rotational torque than SAE Double flares.
    (And there isn't the luxury of mounting the die or flare clamp in a vise
    when working in the engine compartment.
    )
  • Do your best to get your flare correct the first time, as there is not
    enough straight pipe left to do another flare if you mess up the first.
And in case it was missed above

- Do not forget to put on the new flare nut before you flare your brake line!

.
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To Brake master cylinder R&R questions - rounded bolts...

Old May 19, 2007 | 06:18 PM
  #18  
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Hey guys. Any suggestions on where to pickup this tool since I got the wrong one? Also, do you know the part number for the smaller fitting on the 1992 brake master that I stripped?

thanks!
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Old May 19, 2007 | 06:32 PM
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There is no part number for it.

You just have to find a piece with the same thread size and tube size.

I go here for that sort of stuff:

www.mcmaster.com
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Old May 19, 2007 | 09:40 PM
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I got mine directly from local auto parts counter.

Mfgr: Edelmann
P/N 121050
size: 10mm X 1.0
Bar code : 21597 50980 3

(The larger one is a 12mm X 1.0, which I got at a GM parts counter, don't have the P/N on this one though)

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