.30 over L98
AFR 195 Heads
LPE219 Cam
SuperRam
TH700R4
3.07 Gears

My current converter is the B&M Holeshot 2400
http://www.bmracing.com/SPECIALS/Hol...L60E-30-spline


• 2300-2500 RPM
• Small & Big Blocks
• Mild to Serious Performance Applications
• Furnace Brazed, Fully Balanced

Is it the right stall ???
What you say guys ?
i can always sell it and buy an upgrade.

 

I think quality matters more than stall speed. A nice 9.5" convertor should work excellent.

For a Superram car, the max stall speed should be 3000 rpm.

Vic

 

Thank you,for now the B&M hasn't got me in trouble at all,its pretty good !
So with my 3.07 gears and Super Ram its ok 2400 for now ?
I was thinking in maybe 2800...not sure its just a possibilty down the road
what advantages could i expect...etc

 

3000 stall would be ideal. With that cam and the 3.07s it would be a good match.

 

Your motor will still run fine with that B&M..... nothing wrong with it, just a budget low stall converter.... probably a 12" converter.

But, your engine will like a slightly higher stall.... 2800-3000 is what a lot of the street/strip Superram motors run and they will typically 60 ft in the low 1.6's or 1.5's.... .which is great. My guess, your current converter would leave you still in the 1.7's..... maybe high 1.6's.....which simply means, you are not optimizing the power you have..... very important for acceleration both on the street or strip. With your current converter, when you push the go pedal and it hooks, you're going to notice the motor winding up....but not accelerating terribly hard. You won't have the problem with a converter a little looser....

When I went from a converter similar to yours to a PI 9.5" 3000 rpm vigalante on my Superram motor, I improved several tenths..... was night and day difference from the word go..... in reality, I wish I had tried something up in the 3600 rpm area with it.... I really believe that is the area for best et's with a Superram motor. However, once you go over 3000 rpm, street manners becomes subjective. Having said that, if you have the budget, I recommend a 2800-3000 rpm converter for your set-up.... its a proven combination.

good luck

 

Thanks but which one would be better ...2800 or 3000 ?
Any suggestions ? i need a lockup one as well
When my engine is ready i will try to sell the one i have and buy this other one.

One thing that confuses me is that when i try to choose a TCI one (im not inclined to any brand) ...for example :
http://www.tciauto.com/Products/TC-'...rs'-0.aspx

If i choose the Breakaway®
Advertised Camshaft Duration: 265° to 280° ....but i have 219 duration !!! ????
It says its good for 3.00 to 3.73 Rear Gear Ratio which is fine since im 3.07
But the stall is 2200 to 2400 which leaves me in the same category of my current converter.....

If i choose the StreetFighter®
Advertised Camshaft Duration: 280° to 300° ....which is far from 219
It says its good for 3.55 to 4.56 Rear Gear Ratio which is FAR from my 3.07
But the stall is 3000 to 3400 which sounds better but the above thing
doesn't match ....So that confuses me a lot !!!

I Found out this models as well :

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HUP-22-30LHD/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-1203105/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TCI-243015/


?

 

Do not choose a Breakaway.... I bought one once... was too tight and didn't perform well.

On those gear ratio's, you have to understand those are recommendations typically carried over from a th350 or th400.... which have a 1st gear ratio of approxmiately 2.52 (going out of memory)...... which is why those transmissions need and want 3.73's and 4.11's.... your 700R4 has a 1st gear ratio of 3.06...... what this means is the following:

2.52 x 3.73 = 9.39 (th350 with 3.73 gears)
3.06 x 3.07 = 9.39 (700r4 with 307 gears)

Thus as you can see, the 700R4 with a 3.07 gears provide the exact same torque multiplication as a th350 with 3.73 gears..... this is part of the reason why TPI motors do not need or want much gear above 3.07's when equipped with a 700R4 transmission......the other reason is the low rpm nature of the TPI that has brief torque hump that you don't want to power through.

I recommend a pro-torque 10.5 2800 rpm converter (About $ 500 or so) or a PI Vigalante 9.5" 3000 rpm converter (About $ 700 or so)

Another alternative might be Pete K here on the forum.... I think he is building a quality converter too. (But not positive he still is)

The more converter you give it, the faster it will go up to my estimated stall rating of around 3600 rpm.... however, once you go above 3000 rpm, the slippage becomes more noticable and can have an effect on daily driving, thus it is subjective if you wish to go that high. I will say at 2800-3000 rpm.... you will have a "very" responsive set-up that will knock your socks off from a pure performance perspective and the streetability is near stock.

 

Thanks,wow i was looking at protorque,something like $ 800 !!!
i need with lockup feature...

what about the ones i linked ?
For now i will stay with the 2400 B&M but i will sell it to get a higher stall.

 

Although you will see low priced, 12 inch converters advertised with higher stall than 2400, they likely wont stall that high. Their size, and available stator combination's limit their stall potential. An easy way to achieve more stall from a 12 inch converter is to build them with a ton of stator end-play. Then, they become a slushy piece of crap.

What I am saying is keep your current converter, if you are satisfied with it. If you wish to step up, do so to a quality, 9.5 inch converter.

Buying a 3000 stall converter (12 inch) will not be cost effective. You will hate it, and remove it. Or, it will make so much heat it will roach the trans, due to it's in-efficiency.

I used to sell them for $525 plus actual shipping, but was constantly told I was expensive.

 

Thanks Pete,you use to sell 9.5 inchers ? do they retain the lockup feature ?
Let me know , i can sell mine (it will take a couple of months maybe).

Thanks for the advice on the inneficient 12 inch 3000 stall converters , good advice !

 

I did sell them, but I no longer do. My day job takes me all over North America, and I am away from home 5-6 days a week. Maybe, one day, if things ever get back to normal, I may get involved again.
The part I used to sell started life as a 9.5 inch GM converter, and it was gutted to a shell.

All fins were fully welded
Torrington bearing supported custom Stator
Chromemoly hub
Rear cover reinforcing ring
Anti-balloon plate
Raybestos lock up plate friction material
Custom Stalled
Leak tested
Balanced

As I said though, I no longer sell them. I was constantly getting beat up on the price.. Quality was 1st rate, and they were actually a bargain.

My own converter:

 

Its a shame
But well, let me know when you have time,maybe we can do business.
Thank you, and lucky who got to have your converters !!!

 

You were beat-up on price for a 9.5" 3k $ 525 converter ? If a customer is whining about that price, I'd just tell them, thanks for looking, good luck and move-on away from them.... they don't understand the market if they complain about that price.

Calderone, the 10.5" Pro-torque was in the $ 500-550 range many years ago.... sounds like they have gone-up. If you don't have the budget, just stay with what you have, it will still run good as I stated before, just not optimized.

good luck !

 

Yup. I was so confident in the quality, I would put it up against anyone's lock up converter. It did not have a billet back cover for that price, but I never saw a need for one below 600 HP. If someone had to have the billet back, it would add $125 to the price. Still a smokin price, for the level of quality and service.
Don't get me wrong though. Many, many guys (especially here) were perfect customers and I was happy to assist. To my knowledge, no failures out there.
There was 1 guy in florida that said the converter killed his trans (based on his rebuilders word), but I was unable to get that unit back for inspection. Even though it was out of warranty, I still offered to overhaul or replace at my cost, but his builder talked him into going with one of his converters.

Trans business is tough. Like engine builders, they bash each other relentlessly. Although a trans can ruin a converter and vice-versa, it is easy to blame the other when something goes wrong.

 

Thats looks exactly like the one I got! Best convertor I've ever had and I had no problem spending the $525 bucks fot it, one of the best investments I made for my car.

 

wow its just beautiful !

 

I had a 2400 b&m in the car when it was still a 350 build. I thought it was decent budget converter, and I had it in for a couple years. It had a slightly loose feel and it was good at the time, however it is not on the level of one of pete's or comapnies selling comparable (ultimate, neil chance etc.) converters. In that world, 500. is real reasonable.
The type that Pete has not only has better parts (made better, lighter, thought mine is a 9") in it, but it will not feel as sloopy/loose as a b&m (given the same stall speed). I have one of his in the car now and there have been zero issues from the start. It is fairly tight in normal street driving for a converter that flashes around 3k.

 

I've got a couple 9.5" 3200 stalls with lockup if you're interested. I'll take $250 for one of them, brand new in the box never opened.

 

too high
Thanks for the offer
i meant too high stall
im aiming 2800-3000

 

Look at the Vigilante 9 1/2" lock up TC. http://www.700r4l60e.com/store/catal...kup-p-124.html It's a well built, light weight convertor. I have one with 3.07s and it made a huge improvement off the line. I just have a 2600 but I'm more interested in streetabilty and reliablity. It feels like a stock convertor until you floor it. I had to throw on a set of MT drag radials to hook up.

I like your choice of AFR heads and 219 cam. Should be perfect for the SR.