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C6 Corvette ZR1 & Z06General info about GM’s Corvette Supercar, LS9 Corvette Technical Info, Performance Upgrades, Suspension Setup for Street or Track
First, sorry for the pretty awful video quality... my smartphone makes a good phone but a not-so-great video camera. If it goes full size (720p) the dial indicator face is a little easier to read.
This is a quick check of the #1 exhaust valve. It's a little tough to see in the video but the indicator positioned in-line with the rocker movement so I would think that should show the most wear. With the valve lowered off the seat ~.25", I get 0.004-0.005" movement.
Couple of questions...
1. Am I doing this right? Will this method give me numbers I can use to gauge the wear?
2. How's the 0.004-0.005" movement?
If it looks like I'm doing this right, I'll go though and check the others (even though this is a PITA). FYI, this is a 2006 Z06 with 35k miles and no engine mods or aftermarket tune that I am aware of although, I have only had the car the last 20k miles of its life.
I do not have an opinion, but appreciate your post. Like you, I am not too clear on how to properly measure the guides, but am still trying to learn and holding out hope for a precise DIY.
Your test looks pretty good to me and I am subscribed.
2. The numbers look good. Check the intake valve as well, that will confirm everything. My bet is that you will get the same, or only very slightly less, numbers on the intake. Write down all the numbers and respective valves so you can keep track and make sense of it later. Sometimes one head is better than the other.
Unfortunately yes, you need to do them all. If only you'd got .025 on this first one, then you could have stopped
1. Yep, that's how you do it, and a properly done test will give you a very close, although not exact indication of your valve-to-guide clearance.
2. Wiggle test numbers are usually about 2x actual clearance when measured with a micrometer and bore gauge. So your .004 to .005 would correspond to .002 to .0025. The shop manual shows .0037 as the maximum for valves in service. Therefore based on this one test yours would not be out of spec. But you might want to check some more valves and get some more data.
Nice post, thanks for sharing. Hopefully some more guys with hands on experience will comment.
Btw, how did you mount your dial indicator? Use the gooseneck on a vice grip thingy?
your this far, i would check em all. if the rest of them are like that one, i would say you have more time left. recheck in a few thousand miles again. this is the first one ive seen in spec. nice to see that. how many miles? ect.?
Thanks for the info, everyone!! I'm glad I'm on the right track with this procedure.
I've only been able to check the valves on 1, 8 and 7, so far. The intakes have all measured .003-.004" and the exhausts have all been .004-.005". I wish I could get a better measure but without pulling the heads I think this is as good as I'm going to get.
I'll keep checking the others and report back. These next cylinders should go faster as there is less other stuff in the way. This is making me miss the clam shell hood on my C4 - leaning over the fender is killing my back.
Btw, how did you mount your dial indicator? Use the gooseneck on a vice grip thingy?
Yup... Harbor Freight Clamping dial indicator. Typical cheap HF stuff. I sure wouldn't run a business with this thing but for a little DIY project it seems fine. The gooseneck is sturdy enough if it is adjusted properly. I'm sure a Snap-on or Starret would kick this things butt, though.
your this far, i would check em all. if the rest of them are like that one, i would say you have more time left. recheck in a few thousand miles again. this is the first one ive seen in spec. nice to see that. how many miles? ect.?
2006 Z06
Mfg Date: 4/2006
35,000 total miles
0-15k: Unknown history
15k-present: mainly a DD, spirited driving, a little autocross. No engine, exhaust or tuning mods (yet).
I was thinking if everything checks out on the remaining 5 cyls, I'd recheck again next winter since the car will be hibernating, anyway. At least this will be a good baseline.
Is there a tutorial on how to do this without dropping the valve in the cylinder head?
I'm using something like this tool (but not that tool, exactly) to pressurize the cylinder with it at TDC on the compression stroke. If at TDC, the valve can't go far but the pressure helps when I run into a stuck/uncooperative valve lock while removing the spring. At 40-60psi, I can give it a good whack to release the locks w/o the valve moving.
Thanks for the info, everyone!! I'm glad I'm on the right track with this procedure.
I've only been able to check the valves on 1, 8 and 7, so far. The intakes have all measured .003-.004" and the exhausts have all been .004-.005". I wish I could get a better measure but without pulling the heads I think this is as good as I'm going to get. [...]
And it should be good enough. For reference, using the same method my intake measured .005 and the exhaust next to it measured .022
Well, to update, I finished checking the rest of the valves and the rest were almost all like the first batch - intakes .003 -.004 and exhausts .004-.005. I did find two intakes that were at .005-.006 so I'll have to keep an eye on those since they are close to or at the service limit.
I'll probably repeat this exercise again this winter and see where I'm at. I'll probably start setting some mod money aside for head work, just in case.
Curious, how did the top of the valve stems look? Any pitting? Or nice smooth and shiny?
Had some pitting on mine, but then I have issues with mine
The exhausts were mostly smooth and shiny on top. There was a little less-shiny circle in the center that was maybe 1/4 the diameter of the stem.
The lash caps on the intakes weren't particularly shiny but I didn't see anything that jumped out at me. The tips of the intakes also weren't very shiny but they were clean and smooth.
Sorry I don't have a pic but I already put the car back together.