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I did the "Search"--Weak Starter?

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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 08:28 AM
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Default I did the "Search"--Weak Starter?

1968 resto-mod project:

1970 stock 350 engine/155-160 lb. compression

Edelbrock carb (1405) cleaned and adjusted

Automatic trans No engine-power accessories

Timing set to 12* base/vacuum to manifold

Stock exhaust manifolds are nowhere near starter

P.O. installed new starter......

Rebuilt distributor--Great fire to plugs.......

Great fuel supply with engine cold or hot........

Electric choke works correctly.......

New battery.......

New positive cable.....

New negative cable....

New engine/starter/frame grounds....

The starter cranks perfectly when cold---engine starts on first revolution/engine idles great/runs great....

TWO PROBLEMS/: 1. After an hour drive---starter cranks fast about 4 revolutions----then rapidly slows down.......then after 9-10 seconds of cranking it finally starts---

2. Engine will not fire-up unless gas pedal is held to floor once the slow cranking happens....

It does not affect whether distributor is connected to ported or manifold vacuum---

WHAT DID I OVERLOOK (?faulty starter combined with fuel boiling?)


HELP!

Last edited by doorgunner; Dec 10, 2014 at 08:31 AM.
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 08:55 AM
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Sounds like you've covered the bases. I would not rule out a bad, new starter solenoid or a bad, new battery. I have experienced both. Some will suggest heat soak and the need for a heat shield for the starter.
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 08:57 AM
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Weak battery
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 09:22 AM
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Have you checked the alternator's output? I would also suggest a battery load test.

Last edited by Jud Chapin; Dec 10, 2014 at 09:28 AM.
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Jud Chapin
Have you checked the alternator's output? I would also suggest a battery load test.
Thanks Men.......alternator does 13V at idle/14.5V at 2,000rpm.

I'll wrap the starter first to see if it's heat soak....and do a load test while I'm there.

I'll post those results later.
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by SH-60B
Weak battery
That was my first thought too...
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by AirborneSilva
That was my first thought too...
The battery is 4 months old (but that doesn't mean a lot now-a-daze...LOL)

If it is defective, I think I'll get one that fills the battery compartment COMPLETELY!


BY THE WAY.....I JUST LOOKED AT THE REAR SUSPENSION (driver's side is 1" low---I adjusted the bolt length to no avail)---THE MAIN LEAF IS BENDING ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE WHERE THE SPRING-BOLT GOES THROUGH--

WHO SELLS THE MAIN LEAF (ONLY)?

Last edited by doorgunner; Dec 10, 2014 at 11:41 AM.
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 11:45 AM
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Check the ground wire. it may be new but that does not mean it is getting good contact. Did it work before you "fixed" everything?
I have a mini starter and it cranks my stroker over nicely.
As far as the spring... just get a new one. I have a nice fiber glass one and it is great.. it is Christmas, great excuse for a self gift!
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 01:36 PM
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Maybe you already answered this, but are you running a stock starter? If so, you are suffering from heat sink. Every chevy V8 Ive owned does it as soon as you add headers. (you say you are running stock exhaust, but how close to the starer are the pipes? ) Its a very common problem that many people spend lots of time over analyzing. The cure is to use a hi-torque mini starter. You can get them from 85- 125 bucks if you shop around.

AND....Edelbrock carbs are notorious for 'cooking' Again, every 'Brock ive ever owned 'cooks' off the fuel bowls as youve stated. (Ive owned 5) The cure is to add a phenolic spacer between the carb and intake. Make sure you ck your hood clearance.

Good luck. You are experiencing 2 very common and easily cured problems. Dont overthink it.
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 03:05 PM
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I would do a voltage drop test while starting it hot.

rule out: bad starter (new could be a poorly rebuilt junk starter), bad battery (again, new but could still be defective)

Check your plugs, is it too rich? starting that quickly cold must be nice and rich, but having to floor it when hot is likely flooding or too rich for some reason. Suspect carb issues, and would even look for a possible vacuum leak when it heats up.

Contrary to a previous poster, I have never encountered heat soak starter issues on a small block, even with headers. Every supposed heat soak issue I have seen turned out to be defective starter and/or wiring. Also never seen fuel boil (but I am in MI), except when someone re-plumbed a factor line too close to exhaust.
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 03:23 PM
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Seems to be a lot of "starting" threads lately!

You've definitely put some effort into it already, and good posts so far, so I'll only ask/add:

1) This car is recently put together? (awesome job if it is the thread I am thinking of) or have these problems just started after months of driving it?

2) What is your starting technique for "hot-ish" starts? (Sounds like your cold start technique works great)

3) the starter slowing down thing, that does sound like it could be electrical or starter issue. (But can also be both elect/starter AND gas/carb issues going on.)

4) like mentioned by gungatim, I have no issues with heat soak with headers.

Good luck and keep us posted!
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Old Dec 10, 2014 | 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by tyancey00
Check the ground wire. it may be new but that does not mean it is getting good contact. Did it work before you "fixed" everything?
I have a mini starter and it cranks my stroker over nicely.
As far as the spring... just get a new one. I have a nice fiber glass one and it is great.. it is Christmas, great excuse for a self gift!
I installed the new 6 gage ground directly from the starter to a clean frame location/A mini starter is last on the list/Thanks, but I need a main leaf only so funds can go to other repairs.



Originally Posted by Scottd
Maybe you already answered this, but are you running a stock starter? If so, you are suffering from heat sink. Every chevy V8 Ive owned does it as soon as you add headers. (you say you are running stock exhaust, but how close to the starer are the pipes? ) Its a very common problem that many people spend lots of time over analyzing. The cure is to use a hi-torque mini starter. You can get them from 85- 125 bucks if you shop around. The stock starter is 5-6" from the exhaust down-pipe, but I will wrap it anyway
AND....Edelbrock carbs are notorious for 'cooking' Again, every 'Brock ive ever owned 'cooks' off the fuel bowls as youve stated. (Ive owned 5) The cure is to add a phenolic spacer between the carb and intake. Make sure you ck your hood clearance. Now that you guys mention it, my wife complains of gasoline smell after I park the car in the garage (I replaced all lines to the tank/tank seals/charcoal canister is deleted/etc)...I have 2" of hood clearance to work with---and had fuel boil on my '34 truck SBC
Good luck. You are experiencing 2 very common and easily cured problems. Dont overthink it.
Got it!



Originally Posted by gungatim
I would do a voltage drop test while starting it hot. Will do!

rule out: bad starter (new could be a poorly rebuilt junk starter), bad battery (again, new but could still be defective)

Check your plugs, is it too rich? starting that quickly cold must be nice and rich, but having to floor it when hot is likely flooding or too rich for some reason. Suspect carb issues, and would even look for a possible vacuum leak when it heats up. I installed an electric choke months ago/the choke works correctly

Contrary to a previous poster, I have never encountered heat soak starter issues on a small block, even with headers. Every supposed heat soak issue I have seen turned out to be defective starter and/or wiring. Also never seen fuel boil (but I am in MI), except when someone re-plumbed a factor line too close to exhaust.
In La. heat soak and fuel boil happen to me....I worked out those problems on the '34 SBC truck, but the V.A. meds make concentration difficult....you guys are reminding me of what I did to correct the '34 problems


Originally Posted by C3Hawk
Seems to be a lot of "starting" threads lately!
You've definitely put some effort into it already, and good posts so far, so I'll only ask/add:

1) This car is recently put together? (awesome job if it is the thread I am thinking of) or have these problems just started after months of driving it? I've recently gotten everything safe enough for the highway and have worked out cooling problems/now starting problems

2) What is your starting technique for "hot-ish" starts? (Sounds like your cold start technique works great) Cold starts=turn key=fires up! Hot starts=will not start turning key/will not start pressing pedal once and turning key/will not start pressing pedal halfway and turning key/will start only with pedal to floor and turning key

3) the starter slowing down thing, that does sound like it could be electrical or starter issue. (But can also be both elect/starter AND gas/carb issues going on.) Ain't that the truth...I will try to eliminate the simplest things first.

4) like mentioned by gungatim, I have no issues with heat soak with headers.

Good luck and keep us posted!
Will do.

EDIT: I AM SENDING THIS REPLY TO MY PRINTER SO I CAN HAVE A COPY TO CHECK OFF THE REPAIRS AS I COMPLETE THEM.

AND....I STILL NEED THE NAME OF A VENDOR WHO SELLS '68 VERT MAIN LEAF (ONLY)....thanks

Last edited by doorgunner; Dec 10, 2014 at 10:12 PM.
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 02:39 AM
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Hi DG, rear spring-- you could just try doing a 180 with the spring. A friend had his spring out, didn't mark it, put it in and had your problem. I told him to reverse it, problem solved and that was years ago. Or find a local spring shop, take the spring to them and have them make up a new main leaf. Alternator specs are 13.6vdc to 14.2vdc , are you still using the external regulator alt? Did you clean the frame where the neg calbe bolts to? T
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by terrys6t8roadster
Hi DG, rear spring-- you could just try doing a 180 with the spring. A friend had his spring out, didn't mark it, put it in and had your problem. I told him to reverse it, problem solved and that was years ago. Or find a local spring shop, take the spring to them and have them make up a new main leaf. Alternator specs are 13.6vdc to 14.2vdc , are you still using the external regulator alt? Did you clean the frame where the neg calbe bolts to? T
I 've got some good news for you/with pics.....I copied it from my thread.......first, the main spring......

Cancel the order for the main leaf.....I may as well learn to make one!

I bought a piece of spring steel the correct length and cut the angles on the ends......








I drilled the center hole and the bushing hole.....








I finally got back to the main leaf project and finished drilling the bushing hole on the other end of the leaf......now it's ready to install/hopefully tomorrow........




Every now and then something actually goes almost as planned!







About the alternator......months ago I upgraded to a 130 amp internal regulator alternator because the last owner installed an electric radiator fan...I added the separate electric fan just for the engine....I haven't done any problem solving because of the spring/A.D.D./LOL.......and I have to go out of town for a wedding. I did run a dedicated ground to the alt. case/it's making 13.4-14.5 volts/does a great job of maintaining the battery. Maybe this weekend after I install the "new" main leaf I'll work on the starter drag. I did a 3 hour test-drive trip yesterday afternoon.....except for the starter drag everything went well. The project now has about 30 hours of driving time on it since it received the State Inspection sticker to qualify for being roadworthy.

Last edited by doorgunner; Dec 12, 2014 at 08:17 AM.
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by doorgunner
I 've got some good news for you/with pics.....I copied it from my thread.......first, the main spring......

Cancel the order for the main leaf.....I may as well learn to make one!

I bought a piece of spring steel the correct length and cut the angles on the ends......








I drilled the center hole and the bushing hole.....








I finally got back to the main leaf project and finished drilling the bushing hole on the other end of the leaf......now it's ready to install/hopefully tomorrow........




Every now and then something actually goes almost as planned!







About the alternator......months ago I upgraded to a 130 amp internal regulator alternator because the last owner installed an electric radiator fan...I added the separate electric fan just for the engine....I haven't done any problem solving because of the spring/A.D.D./LOL.......and I have to go out of town for a wedding. I did run a dedicated ground to the alt. case/it's making 13.4-14.5 volts/does a great job of maintaining the battery. Maybe this weekend after I install the "new" main leaf I'll work on the starter drag. I did a 3 hour test-drive trip yesterday afternoon.....except for the starter drag everything went well. The project now has about 30 hours of driving time on it since it received the State Inspection sticker to qualify for being roadworthy.
One issue at a time DG, keep up the good work
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by doorgunner
The battery is 4 months old (but that doesn't mean a lot now-a-daze...LOL)

If it is defective, I think I'll get one that fills the battery compartment COMPLETELY!


BY THE WAY.....I JUST LOOKED AT THE REAR SUSPENSION (driver's side is 1" low---I adjusted the bolt length to no avail)---THE MAIN LEAF IS BENDING ON THE DRIVER'S SIDE WHERE THE SPRING-BOLT GOES THROUGH--

WHO SELLS THE MAIN LEAF (ONLY)?
I had my spring rebuilt by the local spring shop for around $80, they cleaned it up and arched it for me to get the ride height I wanted. I even had them add a leaf to increase the spring rate.

Check around to see if you have a shop local to you.

Neal

DIdn't read the entire thread before hitting the reply button, I see you got this worked out,

Last edited by chevymans 77; Dec 12, 2014 at 09:14 AM.
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by chevymans 77
I had my spring rebuilt by the local spring shop for around $80, they cleaned it up and arched it for me to get the ride height I wanted. I even had them add a leaf to increase the spring rate.

Check around to see if you have a shop local to you.

Neal

DIdn't read the entire thread before hitting the reply button, I see you got this worked out,
Thanks for the info.......I decided to see if I could do it myself.....I think I'm going to do something similar to your set-up with an additional leaf now that I managed to "reproduce" a main leaf!
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Old Dec 12, 2014 | 10:25 PM
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Originally Posted by chevymans 77
I had my spring rebuilt by the local spring shop for around $80, they cleaned it up and arched it for me to get the ride height I wanted. I even had them add a leaf to increase the spring rate. Check around to see if you have a shop local to you.
Neal
DIdn't read the entire thread before hitting the reply button, I see you got this worked out,



Originally Posted by doorgunner
Thanks for the info.......I decided to see if I could do it myself.....I think I'm going to do something similar to your set-up with an additional leaf now that I managed to "reproduce" a main leaf!


Neal......thanks for the extra leaf idea......I took it and ran with it!

Check out "Doorgunner's '68 Convertible Project"!


EDIT: NOW......maybe my A.D.D. is satisfied and I can get back to testing the starter!

Last edited by doorgunner; Dec 13, 2014 at 08:21 AM.
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Old Dec 20, 2014 | 10:43 AM
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The A.D.D. is under control.......back to the "weak starter".....

I followed your suggestions about the carb being part of the problem with flooding.....SOMEHOW I had the floats set at 5/16" rather than the spec. of 7/16"------annnnd....taking a second look.......the main jets were .100"....

I corrected the float setting and reduced the main jet size to .090".....the COLD starting is great now, and the warm starting is MUCH better now, but the starter still slows down 50% or more(was slowing down 80%) if the engine doesn't start on the first 5-second try.

So.......it looks like you guys are right-----there are several problems going on at the same time causing my starter to crank slowly.

I just realized ......the slow cranking happens even with the engine completely COLD....which would eliminate starter-heat soak (and I don't know HOW I came up with 4"-5" of clearance between the starter and the exhaust manifold---I guess I was thinking of starter-to-exhaust down-pipe clearance...duhhh!).

More......later.

Last edited by doorgunner; Dec 20, 2014 at 10:47 AM.
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Old Mar 5, 2015 | 12:38 AM
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Time flies! The main leaf works perfectly.

I got sidetracked rebuilding a convertible top assembly.

Now back to the starter.....I wrapped it in some quality starter wrap, but it's still acting up....it's dragging worse now.

I'll do the voltage drop on the battery.....then, on the starter.
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