Please read my experience and make sure you do not repeat it.

I washed my Vette on the driveway, dried and pulled it into the garage. It sat a week in humid weather. I did not use any kind of wheel cleaner, just Mequires wash and wax on the wash mitt.
Today I tired to back it out and the pads were rusted to the rotor. Not unusual that they were stuck and normally pop easily and break free. Today it was absolutely welded in place. 650 lbs of torque only broke free one wheel after gently nudging it from drive to reverse multiple times. I could feel the load building and then the car power stalled the one free rear wheel and slid the car sideways into the garage wall.
It was now sitting with the passenger side against the wall with three wheels still locked. If I jacked it up it would slide the painted rear fender up the wall. I could not even get a sheet of paper between the wall and fender. I used my truck to pull the car sideways away from the wall with a tow strap around the rear frame member making sure it was not against any thing breakable. Luckily the garage floor is painted and had a light layer of dust making it slide easy.
It took about 25 tries of forward to reverse to get the other rear wheel free. I then backed the car out of the garage with both front wheel locked in place, easily sliding on the painted dusty surface. Once it hit the unpainted concrete driveway they finally broke free. The rotors show heavy rust with a very heavy marked area where the pads had sat on them. The E brake was never applied. My local dealer stated that the z06 pads are metallic and has seen this happen.
Moral of the story....always drive the car before parking after washing.

 

Mine stick all the time under the same situation but never had anything like that.

 

I'm sure the Iowa 90 percent humidity did not help. They are stock brake pads.

 

My last car was terrible for this. I got into the habit of going back and forth 3 times in the driveway before parking it. Seemed to get just enough water off the brakes.

 

I do try to remember to dry the rotors with the electric leaf blower right after washing. It helps considerably.

 

Mine stick (badly) after every washing but perhaps that is because I am very **** in my wheel cleaning (i.e., wash wheel wells, wash tires, clean both outside and inside of rims). What I do, however, is dry the car in the garage and by the time I am finished drying and/or waxing, cleaning glass and such I back the car up a few feet. That is generally all that is necessary. L8ter's suggestion of using an electric leaf blower is a good tip that I will try.

 

I think a neighbor pulled a joke on you by sneaking into your garage and super gluing the pads to the rotors...
Better check to make sure your gas tank is OK.

I usually just back down the driveway, and drive it back into the garage while dragging the brakes slightly... never had a problem.

 

Same here. Always take a quick spin after washing and this works.....otherwise, the stick like they were glued.....

 

Thanks! I use a leaf blower after washing to get most of the water off, and now I will remember to hit the rotors a little longer each time.

 

do not recall reading about this in the owners manual...hard to believe... good thing you did not have an emergency to get to ....bet the neighbors loved the show ..you with your high priced toy and the wheels are locked ...better order a leaf blower and store it in the hatch

 

I use my "Master Blaster" to dry the wheels. No problem since I started doing this...

 

I drive mine a short distance to dry them but there are plenty of other options to avoid this problem including the previously mentioned leaf blower. A large portable fan that circulates a lot of air around the car will work fine unless the humidity is really ridiculous, in that case a dehumidifier aimed at the wheel area will make fast work as it simultaneously exhausts hot air on the wheel and lowers humidity. In a pinch an incandescent light bulb such as an old fashioned trouble light (LED won't work for this) will generate enough heat to chase the damp away but you will have to put it where it will heat the wheel and rotor area; using an incandescent light to produce heat and avoid corrosion is an old trick used for cast iron wood working machines exposed to damp areas. Humidity will precipitate out on the coolest items in the room so the key thing is to make sure your rotors and pads are not the coolest items in the garage.

 

Man I've never experienced anything like that. Then again I live in California...

 

New York here ...never heard of this stuff .... lots of as they say " baggage " with this car ...

 

Not just the latest version of Corvettes that this happens to. I use my Master Blaster on my brakes but occasionally have sticking issues. Nothing like the OP however. Glad you got it sorted.

 

It's kills me you guys spend upwards of $100k and use a $50 leaf blower. Invest in a master blaster and dry them off properly. The air on a leaf blower is sucked up from the ground and spits particles all over your paint and wheels. Master blaster has warm filtered air and will dry your wheels and rotor's completely.

 

What is this "humid weather" you speak of

 

Mine never stick because I always drive around the block and brake a few times! This gets the rotors hot not just dry. If you let the rotors rust even the internal fins, then after you drive you get fine brown rust on the wheels! A few stops gets the rotors past ~250 F much better than just blowing air at them!

The second benefit is the drops of water from my mirrors, spoiler and taillights can be wiped up with a microfiber towel. Usually find a few other spots to clean. Been doing that for many years.

 

Never had this problem. Guess I've been lucky.

 

Stupid is spending $100's on solutions to a problem you've never, ever had!