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Hello- either today or tomorrow I'm going to check out a 05 coupe 6 speed. I'm trying to determine if its a z51. I couldn't tell the rotors but the center console has what looks like a small square button? next to the traction control button. Its not the **** for magnetic ride so I'm lost on that one, but its right in the center.
Anyway- it has 40,000 miles- 3rd owner. I ran car fax- no accidents just some dealer visits : maintenance , new water pump, clutch pedal assembly replaced/repaired, new brake pads all in 2006. It had a service to get a body lube? had a wiring harness installed by the dealer in 2015- is that a concern?
What would is a fair price for this car? I'm in no rush, should I keep looking for an 06+?
I here mixed tales on '05's but I don't have 25k to spend and this is a low mile car
Thanks for the tips fellas
Last edited by Alex Annapolis; Jul 13, 2016 at 12:33 PM.
Z51, look for the RPO code on a label on the inside of the glove box when you get there to look at the car.
Nothing wrong with the 05, but if you were to have plans on power adders, my not be the car for you.
Last edited by extrapilot; Jul 13, 2016 at 01:47 PM.
There are those that will say save up and get a 08 and so forth.. Nothing wrong with that but I bought an 05 coupe with 38K a4 with the Z51 option and new tires... The car had no cosmetic flaws inside or out.. one owner with all the history in a folder.. I paid more than others will claim but I was impressed by the previous owner and the cars care.. I bought it for $23800.00.. I probably over paid a bit but the history was worth it for me.. This is just something for you to compare to.
I believe that is the passenger airbag on/off indicator. In 2006 they moved it to the rearview mirror. There is a sticker on the inside glovebox door that list the RPO codes for the car. If it's a Z51, it will be listed there.
I believe that is the passenger airbag on/off indicator. In 2006 they moved it to the rearview mirror. There is a sticker on the inside glovebox door that list the RPO codes for the car. If it's a Z51, it will be listed there.
...In 2006 they moved it to the rearview mirror...
Musta been in late 2005...my late run '05 had it on the mirror.
OP, go to any GM dealer with the vin and ask parts or service to run the GMVIS and build sheet. The VIS will show all dealer performed work and the build sheet will show all options. They are free.
I sold my '05 with 50,000 miles on it and it was trouble free.
As far as price...as close to $20k as possible. With any luck, a little under.
In 2005 only the Z51 cars had the drilled rotor's. That's your first clue. Then the sticker will have "z51" in the options list. You must leave that car in reverse when you park it and also check for any indications of a mysterious dead battery otherwise known as DBS. Search that on this forum before you buy it. 05's were a little quirky in the electronics department and would do weird stuff on occasion. Like clicking but not starting one minute and then starting up fine the next. Also it's the last year for column lock, which GM DID A BULLETIN AND maybe even a recall. That is a major issue with c5's into the first year of c6.
This info may or may not pertain to you, not knowing your knowledge of C6's....
Check list for shopping for a corvette from my observations reading posts here.
Check Harmonic crankshaft balancer for out of roundness and belt chirping noise.
Check for oil pan seeping issues, some seep but never leave a mark on the ground.
Pull the dip stick and note the color of the oil, as it should be light brown to a darker brown, but not gray, this could indicate metallic particles in the oil.
Check the radiator lower supports in the front as they can get damaged from close encounters with a curb and can break the welds loose.
Check for strong fuel odor around the left rear tire, as some have developed a fuel leak at the left side fuel tank and/or the fuel pump assembly.
While idling the car, there should not be unusual rattling noises coming from underneath the car, as toque tube bearings and couplers can be bad with higher mileage cars.
While driving and releasing the clutch, be sure that transition is smooth with not chattering.
Stock clutches can last over a 100k miles, provided the operators have not abused it up until then.
Car should road test without squeaks and rattles, as I find mine as very quite, only issue is the that targa tops can creak and is usually a easy fix.
Also the end links have been know to clunk over bumps, but another easy fix
Rear diff have been know to make chattering noises when turning sharply, but usually a gear oil change with the correct oil can solve this issue.
Axle nuts sometimes will become loose and can create creaking noise in the rear end, another easy fix.
Make sure that the ac and heat work and come out the correct vent when going through the operations of the controls. The bellows in the dash can go bad, and this is a rough job to do and expensive if done at the dealership.
Obviously the trans should shift smoothly, but while cold, they can be notchy but should shift better within 10 to 15 miles or so. Check the operation in going into reverse, as there is a synchronize that have given issues recently reported.
The first year 2005's do have a weaker rear end diff, and was updated with the next year models.
If you don't plan to mod the car, this is not really a issue though.
I recently bought a 2005 auto with low mileage and the car is fantastic! I don't think you should worry about 1st year production issues as Corvettes continue with the same issues and others as well throughout their entire generational run. Don't believe me? just search the forum and you will see guys with 2008-2013 model years suffering from endless issues!!!
If a 2005 is what you can afford, just do your due diligence!
There is also something about 2005 with manual trans can wear out the battery if not turned off in reverse or something like that. Others more familiar please chime in
Ill be printing this and taking with me on my visit!
Originally Posted by extrapilot
This info may or may not pertain to you, not knowing your knowledge of C6's....
Check list for shopping for a corvette from my observations reading posts here.
Check Harmonic crankshaft balancer for out of roundness and belt chirping noise.
Check for oil pan seeping issues, some seep but never leave a mark on the ground.
Pull the dip stick and note the color of the oil, as it should be light brown to a darker brown, but not gray, this could indicate metallic particles in the oil.
Check the radiator lower supports in the front as they can get damaged from close encounters with a curb and can break the welds loose.
Check for strong fuel odor around the left rear tire, as some have developed a fuel leak at the left side fuel tank and/or the fuel pump assembly.
While idling the car, there should not be unusual rattling noises coming from underneath the car, as toque tube bearings and couplers can be bad with higher mileage cars.
While driving and releasing the clutch, be sure that transition is smooth with not chattering.
Stock clutches can last over a 100k miles, provided the operators have not abused it up until then.
Car should road test without squeaks and rattles, as I find mine as very quite, only issue is the that targa tops can creak and is usually a easy fix.
Also the end links have been know to clunk over bumps, but another easy fix
Rear diff have been know to make chattering noises when turning sharply, but usually a gear oil change with the correct oil can solve this issue.
Axle nuts sometimes will become loose and can create creaking noise in the rear end, another easy fix.
Make sure that the ac and heat work and come out the correct vent when going through the operations of the controls. The bellows in the dash can go bad, and this is a rough job to do and expensive if done at the dealership.
Obviously the trans should shift smoothly, but while cold, they can be notchy but should shift better within 10 to 15 miles or so. Check the operation in going into reverse, as there is a synchronize that have given issues recently reported.
The first year 2005's do have a weaker rear end diff, and was updated with the next year models.
If you don't plan to mod the car, this is not really a issue though.
I recently bought a 2005 auto with low mileage and the car is fantastic! I don't think you should worry about 1st year production issues as Corvettes continue with the same issues and others as well throughout their entire generational run. Don't believe me? just search the forum and you will see guys with 2008-2013 model years suffering from endless issues!!!
If a 2005 is what you can afford, just do your due diligence!
I bought my 05 before reading anything on the forums. After completion I love this car.
If you use power adders and drag race, the rear differential may not last,
but mine is a cruiser.
I finished my 28k C6 under 18k. Retail price of 20-22k is spot on, even with only 40k miles.
$18,000 with 30k? that's a hell of a deal
I found another c6 w 30k but he wont budge from $22,000
Originally Posted by 05 Wreck
I bought my 05 before reading anything on the forums. After completion I love this car.
If you use power adders and drag race, the rear differential may not last,
but mine is a cruiser.
I finished my 28k C6 under 18k. Retail price of 20-22k is spot on, even with only 40k miles.
$18,000 with 30k? that's a hell of a deal
I found another c6 w 30k but he wont budge from $22,000
My advice...if you trade cars a lot then $1-2,000 is a big deal. If you keep cars for, say, four years, then $2,000 is a paltry $10/week. You will get more than $10/week enjoyment out of that car, I promise! If it hits a the right buttons...go for it.
All the previous advice is stellar. I would like to add that the personal aspect should be considered. If the seller is a mature person who has treated this vette like his baby I would feel more inclined to buy it than from a younger person who has made major engine mods and may have driven it more sportingly. You can tell a lot by reading the seller. Good luck.