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Bubba had cut off the stock battery cable ends of my positive and negative battery cables and replaced them with a set of retro fit clamp on type from the auto zone. I was actually able to hook my battery tender to the bolts that clamp the battery cable connector onto the cable.
Last edited by OldCarBum; Mar 15, 2017 at 11:42 AM.
Trying to get battery tender quick disconnect with rings onto my '75 coupe with side post battery.
Tried trimming back the nub around battery tender rings, adding washers but can't seem to bolt it down either side of the battery cable.
Anyone come up with any creative solutions to wire?
Not quite clear to me what you mean. I have tender quick disconnect mounted to my side post battery. You mean these rings shown in picture? I simply cut a single split in top of each ring, then widened each ring slightly, they then fit on battery cable bolt (not battery post).
Last edited by David in NC; Mar 15, 2017 at 11:57 AM.
Yes can't seem to bolt down ring to battery bolt trying to do this directly between bolt and clamp, won't fit between clamp and battery. I drilled out the ring so bolt fits, maybe need longer battery bolts?
Yes can't seem to bolt down ring to battery bolt trying to do this directly between bolt and clamp, won't fit between clamp and battery. I drilled out the ring so bolt fits, maybe need longer battery bolts?
Not sure if you can get ring around bolt, why can't secure with nut since ring so thin should not be much different than situation prior to adding. I can try to take a pic of mine tonight (not sure I can since also have battery disconnect and all within very tight space in front of battery).
I hooked mine up but I don't remember if I had to do anything special to get them to fit....I also have a knife style battery quick disconnect and I hooked up the tender so it will charge with the battery disconnected. I ran the hook-up out the bottom of the battery box and zip tied it to the parking brake cable.
Cool thanks guys may go with the extenders not really bubba! My cable ends are a little ratty anyway might be original.
Even though ring fits on bolt and I shaved off that rubber terminator nub thingy on the battery tender connect have to bend it a bit to screw down, that appears to be stopping it from reaching the battery, or my battery bolts are a hare shorter.
On side post batteries, I've found that in order to get the most out of the threaded connections on the battery... I run this in until it bottoms out...3/8" course thread stainless Allen cap bolt.
But...prior to that, I thread on a stainless 3/8" hex nut and run it up against the back of cap head.
Then, I install the leads for tender and battery cable over the Allen cap bolt, thread it into battery connection till snug, then while holding Allen wrench I tighten the hex nut against the terminals. This gives you maximum thread engagement, gives you ability to add several eyelets for additional connections, on the non-corrosive stainless cap bolt and hex nut. Make sense?
I drilled out the rings then backed the screw out of the side terminal slipped the ring under the insulation on the terminal replaced the screw and that was it.no biggie, no extra parts.
I just cut off the ends and then stripped of enough insulating to twist the wire into a loop that was around a 1/2". I then Soldered the loop. Its now easy to squeeze it between the OEM side post battery cables and the battery. I also use a battery disconnect, and this way the charger maintains the battery wile I have it disconnected for long periods.
On side post batteries, I've found that in order to get the most out of the threaded connections on the battery... I run this in until it bottoms out...3/8" course thread stainless Allen cap bolt.
But...prior to that, I thread on a stainless 3/8" hex nut and run it up against the back of cap head.
Then, I install the leads for tender and battery cable over the Allen cap bolt, thread it into battery connection till snug, then while holding Allen wrench I tighten the hex nut against the terminals. This gives you maximum thread engagement, gives you ability to add several eyelets for additional connections, on the non-corrosive stainless cap bolt and hex nut. Make sense?
Makes perfect sense!!!
I had the same issue as the OP in that the lugs from the battery tender leads were too short and the insulation on the quick connect wire would not allow for the battery post bolts to screw into the battery. It might be that different batteries are molded differently and some may allow for the bolts, cable ends and the lugs to tighten flush on the battery post surface.
This was the one and only time Bubba did me any favors.
I plan to do it right when I replace my cables.
Last edited by OldCarBum; Mar 15, 2017 at 06:48 PM.
They make side post extenders, Autozone that make this very easy.
Originally Posted by resdoggie
Why make this little fix difficult?
These work pretty good at $6.60 each but I needed more than these could handle as I'm running other things to my POS lead...hence my suggestion. My way allows for full engagement of the thread into the battery lug... I'm also using (2) POS battery leads and then a lead for Battery Tender & EFI.
I always look at whats accessible. The B+ terminal on the the back of your alternater is where I attach a battery charger and a tender would be a easy hook up too.
anyone able to wire Battery Tender quick disconnect to side post battery?
Why make this little fix difficult?
