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Lost an injector on #3, clean or replace injectors
1990- 24,860mi--I have no fuel going to #3. Thought I fouled a plug so replaced with RF #5's at .035 gap. Pulled plug and dry as a popcorn fart. I have had my injectors professionally cleaned before with great success. considering I have 16, I am leaning towards doing that while I have it apart. What parts (gaskets, O-rings, etc) am I going to need and what else should I do while I have it apart? How much are new injectors? Any help is appreciated.
A 90 with OEM injectors will not long tolerate alcohol blend fuels before they fail.
FIC stainless injector kit includes the necessary gaskets and O-rings to replace the injectors with stainless steel units that are safe to use with ethanol blends.
Recommend replacing them ALL, rather than piecemeal. Failure is gradual and a lean condition in a given cylinder can result in a burnt valve...ask me how I know.
If FIC can't serve you, order the Accel #150821s (16) from Summit Racing (about $850, last time I checked). (Note: there is a little plastic index tab that has to be ground off on the injectors to be placed in the secondaries spots. Jerry's Gaskets can supply the gaskets and O-rings you likely will need.)
Good luck. Not a bad DIY project!
Last edited by Paul Workman; Oct 6, 2017 at 02:43 PM.
I can buy 90 octane ethanol free fuel where I am. Was thinking of having them cleaned and tested first and running ethanol free and some octane boost if needed instead of spending a g-note on new injectors. Doing that will be $320 plus gaskets, etc. At $53 for a new injector, might not be a bad idea to replace all..
I can buy 90 octane ethanol free fuel where I am. Was thinking of having them cleaned and tested first and running ethanol free and some octane boost if needed instead of spending a g-note on new injectors. Doing that will be $320 plus gaskets, etc. At $53 for a new injector, might not be a bad idea to replace all..
Well, then (referring to the FSM) it might be a very good idea to measure the resistance across ALL of the injectors, AFTER the car is fully warmed up. Normally, the resistance is either 12∩ or 14∩, ± ~1.5 or less (respectively). But, if an injector is 2+∩ LOWER that the norm, e.g., 10∩ when the rest read 12∩, it is likely going bad.AND, if it measures say down around 8∩, it is definitely failed - dangerously so, and you're running the risk of burning a valve, if not just missing or rough idle!
Last edited by Paul Workman; Oct 6, 2017 at 03:27 PM.
Just ordered rebuilt injectors & gaskets from FIC....thanks for the lead. Cost is the same as cleaning my old ones and he said these are way better quality than OEM which I have read here as well as Registry. Thanks again. Will rip it down in 2 weeks, test the harness for pulse, etc and replace the injectors. Will fix and clean any other stuff I find while plenum is off and check coils, etc.
Just ordered rebuilt injectors & gaskets from FIC....thanks for the lead. Cost is the same as cleaning my old ones and he said these are way better quality than OEM which I have read here as well as Registry. Thanks again. Will rip it down in 2 weeks, test the harness for pulse, etc and replace the injectors. Will fix and clean any other stuff I find while plenum is off and check coils, etc.
Just ordered rebuilt injectors & gaskets from FIC....thanks for the lead. Cost is the same as cleaning my old ones and he said these are way better quality than OEM which I have read here as well as Registry. Thanks again. Will rip it down in 2 weeks, test the harness for pulse, etc and replace the injectors. Will fix and clean any other stuff I find while plenum is off and check coils, etc.
would stay away from rebuilt ones & get new only, there was some issues with the rebuilt ones
Spoke with him about that and he said the failures were due to people using ethanol. I am not running ethanol.
car should run on 93 octane unless tuned for something other than stock
The best I can buy at pump is 91, unless I buy race fuel, but my car is tuned for 91, FIC has been a good supporting vendor
Spoke with him about that and he said the failures were due to people using ethanol. I am not running ethanol.
You do not need to be running E85 to be running ethanol.
It's in the normal fuel blends now, however at a substantially lower level than E85.
It dissolves the insulating coatings on the wire that make up the electromagnets that move the pintle up and down in the injector.
Once those coatings get compromised, the resistance (ohms) goes down and the pintle don't move like it should.
It is roughly 10% ethanol. Wawa by me carries 90 octane ethanol free gas due to all the boats down here in FL. I will be fine with 90.
We also get E85 here as well. In my tuned BMW 335 I run 3-4 gals of e85 mixed with 93 and the tuner thinks I am running race fuel. Bumps me up about 35hp from just 93. Only did it once to see if it was true. Don't need to mess with that unless I wanted to get my best ET at the track. If I want to go fast, I take the BMW. ZR1 is fast but not as fast.
The treads you were reading, were they about rebuilt FIC's?
My understanding was some not all rebuilt ones were not working properly, and some needed to be changed again, ask FIC, I thought they stopped selling the rebuilds for LT5, I do not see rebuilds available for LT5 on there website
Yes FIC....he told me that all the warranty work he did on the Bosch rebuilds were from people who said they were running ethanol free and were not. He can easily tell if they are run with alchy. He made me a set and shipped them out to me and said he will honor the 3yr warranty as long as no ethanol. I have no problem with that.
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