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My car is a 65 - 396, I don't have the original carb. I recently purchased the "correct" accel rod for the BB, and my car does have the BB lever to the pedal.
My carb is similar to this:
Referring to the pic, If I use the larger upper hole, with a bushing, I can not get enough travel to fully open the secondaries. So I put the pin into the hole lower right of that one. Plenty of travel there, but the stock accel rod does not have enough threads for adjustment in that spot. The metal tab, interferes with me trying the other hole. Whats that tab for anyway? Right now, I have some bent steel rod, with threads and washers welded on. Not real pretty but it works.
Are you sure you have the correct accelerator rod??? I just checked mine and my rod is in the upper hole with the bushing. The accelerator rod still has at least 3/4" of thread to adjust outward from the connection to the lever at the firewall. Take a photo of the rod and post it so it can be compared to others that are correct.
I assume it's a mechanical secondary's carb? You say the secondary blades are not opening fully - but what about the primary blades? I've never had a Holley with mechanical secondary's - do the primary blades open fully before the secondary blades? Or are they timed to where the secondary blades open faster to catch up to the primary blades and reach full throttle together?
Yes, my Holley connects to the large outer hole but I believe all original Holley equipped cars used vacuum secondary's - although it really shouldn't matter.
I assume it's a mechanical secondary's carb? You say the secondary blades are not opening fully - but what about the primary blades? I've never had a Holley with mechanical secondary's - do the primary blades open fully before the secondary blades? Or are they timed to where the secondary blades open faster to catch up to the primary blades and reach full throttle together?
Yes, my Holley connects to the large outer hole but I believe all original Holley equipped cars used vacuum secondary's - although it really shouldn't matter.
Not sure about the sequence Dan, Ill take a look on that. IIRC the primary's open fully, then the secondaries. My carb is mechanical Secondary. In any event I don't get enough travel.
I was just thinking, I don't have the stock intake, I use an old Holley single plane street dominator. The low profile that doesn't seem to hurt. It must be the centering.
I assume it's a mechanical secondary's carb? You say the secondary blades are not opening fully - but what about the primary blades? I've never had a Holley with mechanical secondary's - do the primary blades open fully before the secondary blades? Or are they timed to where the secondary blades open faster to catch up to the primary blades and reach full throttle together?
Yes, my Holley connects to the large outer hole but I believe all original Holley equipped cars used vacuum secondary's - although it really shouldn't matter.
Dan,
Did you look at the accelerator rods that the OP posted??? My car is an early 66 and I am using the same accelerator rod that it calls for his 396. Supposedly mine calls for the 22-60D. Does yours look like his or like the 22-60D?
Did you look at the accelerator rods that the OP posted??? My car is an early 66 and I am using the same accelerator rod that it calls for his 396. Supposedly mine calls for the 22-60D. Does yours look like his or like the 22-60D?
Hmm, that 60-D has a bend right after the clip. My home made rod has a similar bend. The 60-B will lay flat on the table, my home-made one does not. Looks like its effective length may be shorter due to the bend. Hard to tell by the photo if there are more threads..
I can't easily look at my car right now. It's in garage jail on my lift while I have a car under it that is partly apart.
But if the accelerator rod was too short wouldn't his problem be that it wouldn't return all the way forward to idle? Not sure what is going on. The accelerator lever at the firewall is governed by actually hitting the firewall. You might try holding the bracket all the way to the firewall and adjusting the rod so that the throttle blades are full open. Then release it and see if it returns anywhere close to idle position. My rod has plenty of threaded adjustment as you can see in this picture. Unfortunately I don't have a better picture showing the carb hookup.
I recently changed the carb on our 396 to a 750 double pumper, everything seems fine although the secondaries are not quite open all the way. It looks like an adjustment in in order.
Mine is in the smaller hole to the lower right that flairs out and I get full travel.
I did the same thing on my small block car using the stock straight threaded accelerator rod. But I had to put the rod to outside of the carb lever or it would hit and bind on the lever.
I did the same thing on my small block car using the stock straight threaded accelerator rod. But I had to put the rod to outside of the carb lever or it would hit and bind on the lever.
My rod is also on the outside of the carb. The "fitting" is the same as the threaded metal fitting shown for the attachment of the lower part of the linkage.
The small end pushes through the carb and I have a nut that slips over the back (small end with the hole) that has had one side "slotted" so that when properly aligned in the slot, the cotter pin can go through the hole and retain everything in place. Cut the cotter pin shorter before installing it so that it doesn't get in the way of the carb linkage and cause binding.
Last edited by toddalin; Mar 19, 2018 at 10:14 PM.
I recently changed the carb on our 396 to a 750 double pumper, everything seems fine although the secondaries are not quite open all the way. It looks like an adjustment in in order.
I also had to make this "adjustment."
Rather than remove/bend/replace the linkage, I simply put a few wraps of copper wire around the hole/front of the hole that engage the linkage just a bit sooner and I get WOT on the secondaries.
Last edited by toddalin; Mar 19, 2018 at 10:08 PM.
Holley 4150 BigBlock Carb linkage
