When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
That's a neat picture, I wonder the age of that cobblestone street. We have some streets like that in Baltimore along with granite curbs and they last forever. The cobblestones are very highly sought after, people like them for yard patios etc. I'd like to have a nickel for every one I hauled to the dump in the seventies and eighties.
When I look at that picture my mind sees the German army marching through the Arc de triomphe beginning the occupation of Paris, I had to look up the name.
I lucked out on that parking spot. The French were great to me.....They love Americans...just not all our policy's..
I spent some time with my car at the Normandy Beaches......very sobering.....
.I am thinking of re-posting my 48 State Trip ....and European Trip, as most of the photos are not available because of Photobucket......not allowing 3 party posting.
It will be fun to post every day for 90 days....with some pictures that I did not have time to post while on the road....
Some of the members have died....since I visited them....I should hit the road again sooooon..........
Thanks again for your help....once I shovel 12 inches of snow...I will get some little drill bits to clean out the AB....
I will set the primary blades with just a little bit of the transfer slot showing....I have put an adjustable screw in the secondary stop that will allow me to adjust the idle with the carb on the car and running.
I hope to have the idle at 800 rpm with just secondary tuning...as described in most of the Holley videos.
Jack
Big Sur......looking for a place to camp.......boy....that photo shows my pitted window frame........maybe one day I will take care of it....in the mean time.....
The other day I went to start the '64 and had no pump shots from the Holley 4150.
I replaced the pump diaphragms, and still no shots. The check valves had stuck to their seats and would not allow pump shot.
Freed the check valves and pump shot work fine.
BUT..., now the engine really heats up under load/accelleration, but cools back down when load is removed. It didn't do this last time I drove the car.
I'm thinking either the power valve is stuck closed (but "default" would be open) letting the engine go lean, or the timing weights have stuck. This is easy enough to check with a light.
Are there other things I should be considering???
Seems like a stuck thermostat would manifest itself even after the load is removed.
The other day I went to start the '64 and had no pump shots from the Holley 4150.
I replaced the pump diaphragms, and still no shots. The check valves had stuck to their seats and would not allow pump shot.
Freed the check valves and pump shot work fine.
BUT..., now the engine really heats up under load/accelleration, but cools back down when load is removed. It didn't do this last time I drove the car.
I'm thinking either the power valve is stuck closed (but "default" would be open) letting the engine go lean, or the timing weights have stuck. This is easy enough to check with a light.
Are there other things I should be considering???
Seems like a stuck thermostat would manifest itself even after the load is removed.
I think you are on the right track, check these things first plus make sure the coolant tank is half full when the engine is cold, don't ignore the simple stuff.
If you suspect any more carburetor issues it may be a good idea to take it apart and clean it good than install new gaskets.
I think you are on the right track, check these things first plus make sure the coolant tank is half full when the engine is cold, don't ignore the simple stuff.
If you suspect any more carburetor issues it may be a good idea to take it apart and clean it good than install new gaskets.
Everything else seems to check out OK. Theramostat opens at 160 like it should, the centrip and vaccum advances seem to work fine and the timing is good.
I did put 1 cup of radiator fluid and 1 cup of water in the expansion tank, which did seem a bit low, then high afterwards, before running the engine up to temp and will check it when it cools before taking it out on the road again.
If your car is running rich at idle (Holley Carb) , your air bleeds maybe blocked. Here are some pictures of them....A small drill bit by hand and some carb cleaner to open passages. May solve this problem. After cleaning air bleeds, time to change back to brass floats. One of my valves is sticking, I will replace it. Power valve is good. Set the clearances on transfer slots on primary side. Will use secondary side to set idle. I replaced the slotted adjuster screw with a Allen head bolt I can adjust with carb on car.
I am trying to fine tune it. 4160 Holley. Got the idle set at 800 , primary plates just crack the transfer slot, set idle with secondaries.
Has a slight hesitation......working on accelerator pump shot .
My question before I take carb off..
On a quick full throttle , the engine will immediately die...then come back if I let off.....just sounds like a big gulp of air and engine just freezes for that moment...
I am trying to fine tune it. 4160 Holley. Got the idle set at 800 , primary plates just crack the transfer slot, set idle with secondaries.
Has a slight hesitation......working on accelerator pump shot .
My question before I take carb off..
On a quick full throttle , the engine will immediately die...then come back if I let off.....just sounds like a big gulp of air and engine just freezes for that moment...
What should I look to adjust?
Jack
Do you remember if you had this problem prior to the overhaul. How far did you open the rear blades?
Try this to see if the hesition gets better, close the secondary blade all the way to where it just doesn't stick and open the primary blade to set idle then readjust the emulsion screws.
Go for a ride and see if the problem is any better, if not the pump shot is probably suspect.
Do you remember if you had this problem prior to the overhaul. How far did you open the rear blades?
Try this to see if the hesition gets better, close the secondary blade all the way to where it just doesn't stick and open the primary blade to set idle then readjust the emulsion screws.
Go for a ride and see if the problem is any better, if not the pump shot is probably suspect.
Hi, thanks for reply, The problem was running rich at idle (reason for Rebuild) see beginning of post.
I just came in from playing with carb. The pump circuit seems fine and is adjusted..good squirt, I worked the primary & secondary as suggested, but it’s raining now...I will try it tomorrow. What I did notice was a clicking sound from near water pump.....no leaks or temperature problems, Couldn’t be my timing chain?...I have had a few backfires...timing light out tomorrow, I have some time to sort it out. It runs great considering I just got it back on the road...slapped the rebuilt carb on it and drove 75 miles on Saturday.
I get back with results tomorrow. New set of plugs first.
Do you remember if you had this problem prior to the overhaul. How far did you open the rear blades?
Try this to see if the hesition gets better, close the secondary blade all the way to where it just doesn't stick and open the primary blade to set idle then readjust the emulsion screws.
Go for a ride and see if the problem is any better, if not the pump shot is probably suspect.
Hi, did as you suggested and it seems like the car is sorted out...hesitation seems gone. Floats needed a little adjustment...
Rain prevented a ride...I did change the plugs.....and
remember why I did all of this....car was idling rich in my opinion ...smelled rich...
Here is picture of the driver side bank of spark plugs...that are from running the car before the carb rebuild..
Number 1 plug to the far right and so on down the bank toward the firewall.
What do you think? ....does not look like fouled or extra rich running ..
Glad you got the engine running good, it's important when working on carburetors to try only one thing at a time because if it does not work you can always go back and try something else. You may experiment with opening the rear blades a little but not enough to create a lean spot.
IMO, what was happening was at sudden WOT or load the vacuum drops low and fuel turns from vapor and condenses back on the intake walls so the engine goes lean because the extra air from the secondary blades.
The plugs look good to me, you can see the two rear plugs seem to have a bit of carbon but not to bad. It's probably the fuel distribution, the passenger side may be the same.
The base plate has very small secondary constant feed holes just below the transfer slots to allow a flow of fuel so the gas never gets stale if you drive like grandma, (never our problem) but the mixture is very rich in the secondary to make up for no accelerator pump. If you car is better try just a little secondary blade opening but not to much. Remember, only one thing at a time, you can always go back..
If your primary emulsion screws control the mixture at idle it will be fine though.
Glad you got the engine running good, it's important when working on carburetors to try only one thing at a time because if it does not work you can always go back and try something else. You may experiment with opening the rear blades a little but not enough to create a lean spot.
IMO, what was happening was at sudden WOT or load the vacuum drops low and fuel turns from vapor and condenses back on the intake walls so the engine goes lean because the extra air from the secondary blades.
The plugs look good to me, you can see the two rear plugs seem to have a bit of carbon but not to bad. It's probably the fuel distribution, the passenger side may be the same.
The base plate has very small secondary constant feed holes just below the transfer slots to allow a flow of fuel so the gas never gets stale if you drive like grandma, (never our problem) but the mixture is very rich in the secondary to make up for no accelerator pump. If you car is better try just a little secondary blade opening but not to much. Remember, only one thing at a time, you can always go back..
If your primary emulsion screws control the mixture at idle it will be fine though.
Hi, here is a picture of the passenger side plugs...front plug on right...as you can see, the first plugs burns a little cleaner than the other plugs as you move toward the firewall.
Winters intake.....timing just right...my car had been misfiring on start and I put a light on it and found that the distributor had moved ...only 5 * instead of 10*....once I fixed that...car ran like a clock...
Have a new Luk clutch ready to go in it next week I hope...
