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If you decide on a new frame from Vette Products of Michigan, they usually have a 8-9 week wait time. They do not stock them but build them as an order comes in.
TripleBlack, hard to believe that's the same frame in the before and after!
Moxie, I agree, that is not worth fixing, although the front half seemed solid what little I bothered looking at.
One thing I did before making the move was took a wire brush looking for the frame number. I'm not into the "numbers matching" mystique but since it was apparently all original, if it was worth it I would have considered it. But I could not see any trace of the number. It's only a 250 hp car and never going to be worth a ton of $ even if the frame # was there. So my inclination at the present is keep my eyes open for a 65-67 chassis and convert to disc brakes in the process.
Not bragging; just trying to provide some inspiration for you to fix what you have. Much more difficult things have been done, and you won't be sorry for taking the easy way out.
Keep the updates coming, Not only do us lurker / observers love this stuff but I found that when I did write-ups on my project I got a better understanding from just putting it into words that others could understand and then this community was the greatest of help pointing out ways I could do things better or easier.
Great job! I just spoke with Neil at Vette Products about my frame and he said he also does repairs. He said his current lead time on a new frame is 3-4 weeks, but that fluctuates depending on the demand.
Good point about writing it up helps the writer to analyze and better understand what he just did. Obviously, there were a lot more minor glitches, adjustments and stuff that just was not worth wasting everybody's time on. But one thing I did before the job was search the forum and read several other accounts and THEY were helpful seeing what others had been through. SO I'm trying to answer questions, and list possible pitfalls,. for others to help their projects go just a little smoother.
Today I was out there but spent most of the afternoon on the mower. I did go over that back half of the chassis and sprayed PB Blaster on every nut and bolt I can find. Whether it's to repair this one, or strip off parts before junking it, most of those will have to come apart one way or another.
One question I SHOULD know the answer to but just have not learned yet - where on the rear differential housing is the number stamped? I was poking around today and just could not find it. I "assume" the car has a standard 3:36 non-posi but would like to know for sure. Thanks!
[left]I think mine was on the bottom under a bunch of dirt. May be on the side but I think bottom.
OK, thanks, that's where I THOUGHT it was but could not see it. Was second-guessing thinking maybe it was somewhere else. Next time I'll get a little more intense with the wire brush, then will take some solvent and try to clean it up real good.
Last edited by Railroadman; Jun 7, 2018 at 07:33 PM.
For those planning to do this project, here's a great check list forwarded to me by Hermn59. I would caution to ALSO do a visual before starting the lift, and again every few inches on the way up. No telling whether somebody through the years may have installed some additional wire or brace.
One point to consider: Coupes have more structural integrity. Convertibles need support under the tail when being stored etc. The list below says "remove doors (optional)" I kept my doors on, and latched, just to help keep the body as close to its intended shape as possible.
Exterior Trim
• Remove Rocker Panels or Side Exhaust Covers
• Remove Fuel Lid and Bezel
Empty fuel tank
Cooling System
• Drain Radiator
• Disconnect upper radiator hose and remove
• Disconnect Expansion Tank Hose from Radiator
• Disconnect heater hose from water pump
• Disconnect heater hoses (2) from heater core
• Unbolt Expansion Tank Straps
• Remove Expansion Tanks with Hoses Attached
• Disconnect lower radiator hose
• Remove engine fan and fan clutch as assembly
• Remove upper radiator shroud support bracket
• Remove shroud mount bolts
• Disconnect horns and lay to side
• Unfasten horn relay and voltage regulator from radiator support
• Disconnect Transmission Cooling Lines if applicable
• Remove A/C Hydrator Bottle if applicable
• Lift radiator and fan shroud out as one unit
• Remove lower radiator hose
Electrical System
• Mark up copy of AIM with all mounting and routing details
• Remove horns
• Remove transistor ignition amplifier if applicable
• Remove voltage regulator
• Remove horn relay
• Disconnect wires from alternator/generator
• Loosen bolts from alternator/generator mount bracket and move towards engine
• Remove top ignition shielding if applicable
• Disconnect wires to coil (both + and -)
• Disconnect Fuel Injection wiring if applicable
• Disconnect wire to temperature sending unit and free it from any clips
Mechanical Connections
• Disconnect brake line(s) from master cylinder
• Remove clutch return spring
• Disconnect clutch linkage at cross shaft
• Disconnect steering column
o At steering box and frame if applicable
• Disconnect accelerator rod ground strap
• Disconnect accelerator rod linkage from lever
• Disconnect Tach Drive Cable
• Disconnect oil pressure sending unit from block
• Put all of the above back to the firewall
• Pull rubber dust shields out of rubber “A” arms
• Disconnect and remove fuel injection air cleaner if applicable
• Disconnect fuel line from fuel pump
• Disconnect fuel line at rear where the main line connects to the tank line
Under Car Connections
• Remove front bumpers and brackets
• Remove rear bumpers and brackets
• Remove rear license plate bezel
• Remove rear valance panel if applicable
• Disconnect wire harness from gas tank and pull back from frame
• Disconnect radio antenna ground strap from frame
• Disconnect front parking brake cable from any clamps that may keep it from going up with the body
• Disconnect speedometer cable from transmission and any clamps that may keep it from going up with the body
• Remove all forward splash shields that are connected between the frame and body
• Remove body to frame ground (left #1 mount point)
• Disconnect wire harness from starter and solenoid
• Disconnect backup light leads if applicable
• Remove lower radiator support bolt(s) (2)
o This is also the front body mount bolts
• Remove body mount bolts at position #1 on right and left sides
o Located in firewall area
• Remove body mount bolts at position #4 on right and left sides
o Located near the rear of the car
It is important to check underneath the car for any remaining connections of any type between the frame and body
From Above
• Remove doors (optional)
• Remove body mount bolts at position #2 on right and left sides
o Located under sill plates
• Remove access covers in rear fender wells
• Remove body mount bolts at position #3 on right and left sides
o Located in forward wall of rear wheel wells and in some years 2 additional bolts in the interior just on each side of the floor tunnel
• Remove gear shift ****
• Remove center console
• Remove shift boot and retainer
• Remove rear exhaust extensions (53-60)
Final Check of Engine Compartment
• Pull speedometer cable up from below and lay on fender
• Pull front parking brake cable up from below
• Pull all wire harnesses back from frame
• Pull brake line back from master cylinder
Make another check to verify all wires and other items are secured out of the way.
Wow.... I thot my frame was bad. Highly recommend Neil at Vette Products frame from original GM tooling. It's about 6K. No idea what used sells for.
AND if you go get it in Detroit, Punxsutawney, PA is kinda on the way. You can get the whole frame etched, dipped, coated inside/out, oven cured, and rust proofed for about $400 and ~2-3 hrs.
Here's the complete frame after dipping and being removed from the hangers. All surfaces inside and out look like that. If interesting in dipping your new frame let me know and I'll provide company info.
Thanks again for the list. Either I missed it, which is easy for me to do, or it’s on another list, but should I remove the soft top frame or does it need to be there for some kind of rigidity?
Thanks again for the list. Either I missed it, which is easy for me to do, or it’s on another list, but should I remove the soft top frame or does it need to be there for some kind of rigidity?
It did not show on the list. I removed mine for less weight overall and especially less weight on the back section of the car as it's being lifted.
You might want to visit VanBortel in Macedon. They usually have C2s being repaired and on the lift. They give full access and will take some time with you. Go around back and enter the door back/left where the old Corvettes are. They will let you in.
Anyways, they did a frame off last year and found a good deal on a rolling frame out of Texas. The car was a ‘67 convertible, Goodwood Green with full patina but a new underside. Very cool. Maybe they can give you some advice.
I’m fairly local to you. I’m no expert but If you want to look at my cars to answer any questions, don’t hesitate to reach out.
You might want to visit VanBortel in Macedon. They usually have C2s being repaired and on the lift. They give full access and will take some time with you. Go around back and enter the door back/left where the old Corvettes are. They will let you in.
Anyways, they did a frame off last year and found a good deal on a rolling frame out of Texas. The car was a ‘67 convertible, Goodwood Green with full patina but a new underside. Very cool. Maybe they can give you some advice.
I’m fairly local to you. I’m no expert but If you want to look at my cars to answer any questions, don’t hesitate to reach out.
Thanks. I've known Nate since Turner days. My C-4 is due for NY State inspection this month and I figured to ask around out there when I take it.
I just spoke with Neil at Vette Products about my frame and he said he also does repairs. He said his current lead time on a new frame is 3-4 weeks, but that fluctuates depending on the demand.
