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Hi All-
I just got some wheel locks and had the occasion to loosen a lug nut.
It was pretty loose. Maybe 90-100 ft lbs. None of the others were up to Spec.
The Manual advises rechecking them after the first 100 miles or so, do it.
Torque Spec is 140 ft. lbs.
BTW, McGuard 24215 is identical to the factory lock and way cheaper.
I understand 100 lbs is sufficient and it is important to re-torque after 100-200 miles anytime wheels are removed and reinstalled. I had some aftermarket no name black lug nuts installed on our Z and the top popped off of two of them at 110 lbs. Bought higher end lug nuts and zero problems at 100 lbs.
CAD CTS V called for 110 lbs but that was after a recall replaced the original lugs and nuts.
C8 has bigger lug nuts (14MM vs 12MM) and the torque spec is 140#-ft.
I understand 100 lbs is sufficient and it is important to re-torque after 100-200 miles anytime wheels are removed and reinstalled. I had some aftermarket no name black lug nuts installed on our Z and the top popped off of two of them at 110 lbs. Bought higher end lug nuts and zero problems at 100 lbs.
CAD CTS V called for 110 lbs but that was after a recall replaced the original lugs and nuts.
Correction.... as pointed out in a number of posts that follow, the C8 torque is 140. I would think this would definitely eliminate the “click” “click” “click” that both the C7’s and CTS V would often have with tight turns when cold.
I understand 100 lbs is sufficient and it is important to re-torque after 100-200 miles anytime wheels are removed and reinstalled. I had some aftermarket no name black lug nuts installed on our Z and the top popped off of two of them at 110 lbs. Bought higher end lug nuts and zero problems at 100 lbs.
CAD CTS V called for 110 lbs but that was after a recall replaced the original lugs and nuts.
C8 has bigger lug nuts (14MM vs 12MM) and the torque spec is 140#-ft.
This is pretty common, when I checked all the lugs on my wife's Jeep Grand Cherokee after about 100 miles they were all loose. After I retorqued them to 140 they have held just fine.
Wow 140 I’m so use to bolt which is usually less than 100 ft-lbs. Good to know.
Me too. (and that's not part of any movement). Any reason why the torque is up about 40 lbs. from prior gen? Assume the studs must be different, too, to take the torque.
Me too. (and that's not part of any movement). Any reason why the torque is up about 40 lbs. from prior gen? Assume the studs must be different, too, to take the torque.
studs are now 14mm up from 12 or 12.5, thus the increased torque is not hard on the stud. Back when we had steel wheels (the Iron Age) torques was 50-60 #-ft.
As noted, this is hardly an issue with just GM vehicles, and it hasn't just started happening. That's why new owners are "officially told" to check them in short order and correct as necessary.
Just checked mine. 9/10 on the left were at 140 ft/lb, only about half on the right side were tightened to specification. Fairly common with aluminum wheels. Decades ago when I worked in a tire shop, we made customers initial the R/O indicating they would check/retorque at 50 miles or bring the car back so we could do it.
Just checked mine. 9/10 on the left were at 140 ft/lb, only about half on the right side were tightened to specification. Fairly common with aluminum wheels. Decades ago when I worked in a tire shop, we made customers initial the R/O indicating they would check/retorque at 50 miles or bring the car back so we could do it.
This is just not accurate with modern wheels. I change wheels and tires constantly on a racecar. Torque to 100 (C5) and they stay there. They take an extra smidge once you get the car down and roll it once, but they don’t back off 30% ever. For a HPDE weekend in my C7 I’d check every morning and they don’t move at all.
@jagamajajaran have someone at the plant check the torque machine.
Last edited by RapidC84B; Jul 4, 2020 at 12:42 AM.
This is just not accurate with modern wheels. I change wheels and tires constantly on a racecar. Torque to 100 (C5) and they stay there. They take an extra smidge once you get the car down and roll it once, but they don’t back off 30% ever. For a HPDE weekend in my C7 I’d check every morning and they don’t move at all.
@jagamajajaran have someone at the plant check the torque machine.
What’s inaccurate? Not saying there isn’t a snafu at the factory, but it’s fairly standard to suggest/require a retorque. I’d guess mine weren’t out of spec by 30%, either. Admittedly, I didn’t get the torque value for the ones that weren’t tightened to spec, I set the wrench at 140 and hit them all.
This is just not accurate with modern wheels. I change wheels and tires constantly on a racecar. Torque to 100 (C5) and they stay there. They take an extra smidge once you get the car down and roll it once, but they don’t back off 30% ever. For a HPDE weekend in my C7 I’d check every morning and they don’t move at all.
My C6 Z typically will have the torque back off about 20 #-ft on the front from 100, seldom on the back, several sets of OEM wheels with street tires, track tires and drag radials, same on all.