What's the pros on the 5.3 vs the iron all forged 408? Besides weight.

 

I'm not a pro racer, but the turbo guys don't bother with stroker cranks largely due to rod/piston angle in the sleeve. My builder does all the 7 and 6 second builds around here and said he wouldn't go over (my memory is shot here... 377?) and gave the example without giving details that my friend who runs a race series up here picked up 200hp stepping down to aforementioned number on whatever same combo vs stroked.

If I could offer a better answer I would.

We're talking 1500rw builds.

 

with really high cyl pressure, the rod angle can cause some problems.

to make room for the crank, piston skirts get shorter and pull out of the block a bit which can cause wear issues.

overall the friction goes up, and the added cubes don't give a good return on the HP investment.

bottom line is it's the overall combination, and the lower displacement engines can spank out all the power you need

the strokers are great for NA, but you have to ask yourself, if I can make 1500 or more hp with solid durability do I want the hassle and added expense.

I wish there were better availability of good short stroke forged cranks. I went with the LSA stock forged crank with the 8 bolt flexplate flange. Others have pushed this crank very hard.

I'm going to shoot for 1000 hp, and it should handle that just fine. The high rpms and wide power band of the short stroke helps shift the torq higher up in the rpm band which can help you hook and book rather than "stroking it" and spinning

the FI will make the power, make the short block withstand it.

 

So last weekend I picked up a set of stock 243s for $200. Do you guys think I should buy this short block https://www.texas-speed.com/p-16439-...less-runt.aspx and go with the stock 243s and sell my 44k mile LS6 long block? It has a 230/236 .591"/.601" 114 and I was told Patriot stage 2.5 ported 243s. I have no receipt for the heads.

Then I was thinking A&A YSi 8 rib system. RPM trans and a clutch. I have an RPM rear w 390s.

or do I go Huron kit for roughly the same price as the A&A?

• 1x Huron Speed C5 Corvette Twin Turbo Kit - Base
  $4,249.00
• Intercooler - Bell Intercoolers upgraded 4.5″
  $1,000.00
• Add Precision Turbos - pt6266cea’s
  $1,995.00
• Add Wastegates - Turbosmart GenV Hyper-gate-lite 45’s
  $690.00
• Add BOV - Turbosmart GenV Race-Port
  $245.00
• Add Boost Controller - Turbosmart Eboost-2
  $495.00
• Subtotal $8,674.00
  
  
  How is labor for instillation and tuning for the turbo compared to the A&A?
  

 

That's a question for your tuner.

Don't forget your fuel system upgrades in there.

Both directions are good. Both will make VERY high power.

I had looked into the huron kit at one point before but I forget the specifics. I know my mind was focused on oiling and how the kit was plumbed. I'm sure it works for many, but I remember walking away over that after seeing installed pictures. Though now the world has ceramic ball bearing turbos which allow you to be far more creative with mounting positions and angles. I also remember thinking the piping could be done better and approached an acquaintance who is a SICK welder about pricing for custom pipes and the price was fair for his work but more than I wanted to spend at the time. Maybe in the future. So for that kit i was probably just too picky. It works and guys have some sick builds. I stuck to the simple, by comparison, bolt on blower kit and accepted the power robbing belt setup.

The runt looks great if they're in stock. Lends itself well to boost.

Either way you go you're going to have a few small hurdles as you go, but both setups will be outrageous when done.

Much as I'm a blower guy, I'd love to see more turbo builds on vettes.

 

The huron kit is very appealing It's going to cost more than the blower to install but it also comes with 3" down pipes and good access to the plumbing and turbos.

I wouldn't go with the oil less ceramic bearing turbos yet but the precisions should work fine. The turbos allow much easier boost control and doing boost by gear or speed is a great way to hook up better

I have an older ttix system which is limited by the turbo placement packaging to around 1000 or so with my smaller turbos

the big thing I like is the ttix cast iron manifolds but I did have a problem and cracked the mounting flange on the back of the manifold.

The super charger kits provide a much easier path to boost I'm trying out blowers now as I'm hooked on the ease of use.

ECS and A&A both have really nice kits. spend the $$ for the direct accessory drive with the OD balancer. ECS just came out with a new cog belt accessory drive setup that looks really good

the A&A direct drive brackets minimize the belt slip issues with an 8 rib drive dedicated to the blower. The OD balancer helps too for belt slip free operation. I'm using a D1x blower this time and E85

no matter how strong you build stay far away from detonation

 

Amen.

I am now curious about the ecs cog belt for the accessories. I haven't heard online of noise issues with the AA unit which I have just installed. And I know no one in person with this kit. So I will wait and see. Not much couod motivate me to swap balancers again right now and I figured any noise issue can be corrected with tension changes. We'll see.

I never had belt slip before at 10psi on my P1. But I swapped brackets for the new hot swap belt version and the direct drive with 8 rib and the od and am eager to see how the V3Ti winds up on this combo.

 

We can easily take 05' L33 5.3L Engine with 140,000 miles all factory bottom end and drive it to 300,000 miles at 800rwhp on E85 as a daily driver.
The overlooked 'secret' features are,
1. Must be turbocharged to provide cushion on exhaust stroke which protect OEM rods and rod bolts/caps
2. Must have fully OEM PCV system which provides 1.5" to 3" Hg inside the crankcase at WOT, this protects piston ring seals and prevents engine deposits which enables high mileage. I have video how to test this
3. Must be pressure tested. I have a video for this as well. Leaking air molecules in turbo apps cause high IAT and EGT/EGP which ruins the stock engine easily. This is a very common mode of failure for custom turbo apps.
4. Coolant and oil must be maintained within 10 to 20*F of each other, and max oil temp may not exceed 232*F with coolant around 222*F max.
Yes modern engines, oils, will tolerate much higher oil temps and coolant temps but in high output turbo applications the OEM pistons DEPEND on the low oil temperature for cooling otherwise will suffer brittle fracture failure. This is a commonly overlooked aspect of longevity.
5. Air filtration must be superior to OEM, filter down to 1uM to 2uM for example. The air filter is the primary source of longevity next to the PCV system. Without proper filtration and PCV working together there is no way to see that kind of mileage from any engine.

 

For anyone who doesn't know, that is deep knowledge shared from a lot of experience. I actually screen shot it and saved the post.

 

Great info. I think the gen 4 rods and blocks are strong indeed.

Here's my "claimer build" that I'm tempted to push to around 900 hp at 7200 rpms

4.8 iron block
.020 over wiseco pistons
gen4 rods with good bolts
stock crank and main caps

AFR 225 heads
johnson link bar hyd anti pump up lifters
BTR Shaft rocker system
BTR spring kit

May use my dr phil cam after I check specs for 4,8

this will have a ttix twin turbo kit with the champion 3" downpipes

 

As stated above the turbo engines have some solid advantages and tend to be easier on the engine than loading the crank with a blower drive

the big boys go to direct drives off the front of the balancer with big crank supports to reduce flex and crank strain

turbos are no free ride with the restriction, but tend to have less HP sacrificed to spin them in comparison to the crank driven blower

and contrary to what most will say, the turbos spool up under load way earlier that the blowers which can only pump based on the crank speed

I like the ability to do boost strategies that allow you to ramp up the boost curve according to available traction, and you can even interface the boost controller with advanced traction control

you can plant way more power on a prepped track and spinnin ain't winnin so the turbos allow more flexibility there.