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C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

1994 Dana44, ZF6, cam swap

 
Old 03-21-2019, 12:05 PM
  #21  
DMITTZ
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Great thread. Keep up the good work.

From my experience with my 88' (using ebl flash) I did find there to be a very steep learning curve with tuning on my car. I'm not sure how hard the computer system your using it to use but I still only have mine 90% figured out after a year of tinkering with the tune, mine drives fine now but still has some issues in the tune I haven't been able to figure out yet.

So if you can find a local tuner capable of skillfully dealing with the tune for you it will be money very well spent, IMO.

Looking forward to watching the rest of your build.
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Old 03-22-2019, 11:03 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by DMITTZ View Post
Great thread. Keep up the good work.

From my experience with my 88' (using ebl flash) I did find there to be a very steep learning curve with tuning on my car. I'm not sure how hard the computer system your using it to use but I still only have mine 90% figured out after a year of tinkering with the tune, mine drives fine now but still has some issues in the tune I haven't been able to figure out yet.

So if you can find a local tuner capable of skillfully dealing with the tune for you it will be money very well spent, IMO.

Looking forward to watching the rest of your build.
Thanks!

The EBL is a neat little expansion board and makes the most out of the older technology. It's good if you can retain the factory dash/trip functionality. Rob extended some of the code and added a few neat features not originally in the stock GM code, so that's nice too!

The 1994 LT1 is using the $EE mask. It's a flashable PCM, but not real time. It takes a few minutes to flash between changes. The layout is similar to the EBL as it's just a standard GM PCM. It does have cylinder trims which is nice with the LT1 manifold for uneven fuel distribution.

On my race car I use Megasquirt, which is light years ahead of the EBL and the factory LT1 PCM's. Man, I remember the old days in the 90s when we were burning proms. It took forever to tune something lol

I would have switched the LT1 over to Megasquirt but I would lose the dash functionality / communications with the CCM.

-- Joe
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Old 03-22-2019, 12:12 PM
  #23  
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Sounds like you have lots of knowledge about tuning so you shouldn't have any problems getting your engine running nicely.

EBL is certainly better than the orginal GM system but I do find it had a really steep learning curve, took me like a month to get my head wrapoed around it before I started making meaningful progress.

I'm planning to go LS at the end of this year (because I like to chage things up) so I guess I will be swapping computer systems again to, lol.
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Old 03-22-2019, 01:37 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by DMITTZ View Post
Sounds like you have lots of knowledge about tuning so you shouldn't have any problems getting your engine running nicely.

EBL is certainly better than the orginal GM system but I do find it had a really steep learning curve, took me like a month to get my head wrapoed around it before I started making meaningful progress.

I'm planning to go LS at the end of this year (because I like to chage things up) so I guess I will be swapping computer systems again to, lol.
The MS3 pro stuff is fantastic for LSx swaps if you want full sequential, and the tunerstudio graphic interface is very easy to use.

If you join the megasquirt users group on facebook there is a lot of people who will help, like the folks at DiyautoTune

-- Joe
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Old 03-22-2019, 02:08 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by anesthes View Post
The MS3 pro stuff is fantastic for LSx swaps if you want full sequential, and the tunerstudio graphic interface is very easy to use.

If you join the megasquirt users group on facebook there is a lot of people who will help, like the folks at DiyautoTune

-- Joe
Thank you for the great info Joe, it is much appreciated. Sounds like the MS3 pro is a great system. After I'm done driving the car this year I am going to have to decide on a new computer system as I get into my LS swap sounds like this is a great option.

-David.
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Old 04-10-2019, 10:06 AM
  #26  
anesthes
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Making progress. Driveline in place. Now I gotta wire it up and connect all the hoses.

Still have to port the intake to match the heads.

-- Joe


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Old 04-14-2019, 11:59 AM
  #27  
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Looking good Joe
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Old 05-06-2019, 09:39 AM
  #28  
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Drivetrain all together, everything wired up, fluids added. Put the pedals in yesterday. What a pain in the ***! Thankfully my '94 had the two dimples to drill out for the clutch master. Bolting the clutch pedal in is such a pain though on these cars.

Swapped to the manual steering column, gotta bolt that up and bolt the gas pedal back on. Then see if it starts/blows up. Gotta extend the reverse switch wires to the transmission, and see if my car has the clutch interlock wires under the dash (didn't see them.. crap!)

The only thing really major is I need to wire the electric water pump relay into the fuel pump enable trigger from the PCM, and I need to glass in the top trans tunnel for the manual.

The last time I did a ZF6 swap was in like 2006/2007. I was a lot younger and flexible back then!

-- Joe
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Old 05-07-2019, 02:08 PM
  #29  
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Insn't there a thumb rule saying the last 10% of the details takes 90% of the total time to complete? You may not be getting faster but you probably make fewer mistakes so it can balance out overall.

At least you can sit in the car now and make noises.

Congratulations on getting it all together.
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Old 05-07-2019, 03:10 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by cardo0 View Post
Insn't there a thumb rule saying the last 10% of the details takes 90% of the total time to complete? You may not be getting faster but you probably make fewer mistakes so it can balance out overall.

At least you can sit in the car now and make noises.

Congratulations on getting it all together.
Thank you! I was going to work on it yesterday but I was playing with the firebird. Car was kinda hitting a wall at 5,000 RPM and 630hp.. Seems now like it's an air filter restriction.. Trying to get the kinks out at the track.

I might work on the C4 tonight.

-- Joe
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Old 05-08-2019, 12:29 PM
  #31  
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Try a vacuum gauge to measure behind the A/F. Any pressure drop/restriction will show as a vacuum indication. Most overlook how useful a vacuum gauge can be. But you can measure the restriction of every item in the intake path. Also good for troubleshooting the PCV system.

Have fun.
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Old 05-09-2019, 08:02 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by cardo0 View Post
Try a vacuum gauge to measure behind the A/F. Any pressure drop/restriction will show as a vacuum indication. Most overlook how useful a vacuum gauge can be. But you can measure the restriction of every item in the intake path. Also good for troubleshooting the PCV system.

Have fun.
Well its in boost. I think I have two issues. I was messing with the BOV setting last night and its definately opening up. But also I think the small K&N filter I was running was a restriction.

The LT1 started up and seems to run great. I need to button up a few things but it idles good, 80psi oil pressure, etc.

-- Joe
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Old 05-09-2019, 10:35 PM
  #33  
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But you should have atmospheric pressure (zero vacuum) from behind the A/C until the supercharger inlet. Any vacuum in that area shows a restriction.

Good to read the news the LT1 is alive! BTW I couldn't find you final decision on your cam when I looked over your threads. I know you have plenty to keep you busy but if you get the chance to do a compression test please post your results.

Congratulations on a huge project and soon you will get to enjoy "spirited driving " which makes it all worth while. Getting your hot rod set up they way you want it is something that many owners try but never get to enjoy.
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Old 06-12-2019, 09:30 AM
  #34  
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Moved the vette out of the shop the other day. I need to fiberglass the floor and put the hush panel and center console back together but, it's effectively done. One more valve adjustment and it should be cruise ready.

I lost track of how much I spent on it but whatever, it's a 400+hp 6spd street c4.

-- Joe
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Old 06-12-2019, 11:12 AM
  #35  
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Awesome Joe. Congrats on getting the build completed.

Put some video up if you get the chance when you get the final valve adjustment done.
Will

Last edited by rklessdriver; 06-12-2019 at 11:12 AM.
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Old 06-12-2019, 12:45 PM
  #36  
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I scrolled quickly and I don't see that anyone answered your question about the D44. Switching from a Dana36 4L60E to a Dana44 and keeping the 4L60E you will need a ZF6 drive shaft and C beam. No other changes that I can remember. Some on this forum have just redrilled their Dana36 C beam and have shortened and balanced their driveshaft. Some have even said that they used their Dana 36 driveshaft but it was crammed way in, I would not advise that. I found the driveshaft and C beam on line relatively cheap when I went to a 4.11 and a Dana 44.
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Old 06-17-2019, 10:18 AM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by mrodoc View Post
I scrolled quickly and I don't see that anyone answered your question about the D44. Switching from a Dana36 4L60E to a Dana44 and keeping the 4L60E you will need a ZF6 drive shaft and C beam. No other changes that I can remember. Some on this forum have just redrilled their Dana36 C beam and have shortened and balanced their driveshaft. Some have even said that they used their Dana 36 driveshaft but it was crammed way in, I would not advise that. I found the driveshaft and C beam on line relatively cheap when I went to a 4.11 and a Dana 44.
I don't know what my question was, but I did both the dana44 and the zf6 at the same time.

Last time I did a zf6 swap on a c4 I kept the dana36.

-- Joe
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