Skip shifter elimination
#1
Skip shifter elimination
How do I disable the "1 to 4" skip shift feature on my 2005 C6?
Where is the connector located?
Can I just disconnect it, Or does it require a part?
If a part is required, what is it called and where do I get it?
Any info will be sincerely appreciated.
Thanks ,,,,,,,,,Ed
Where is the connector located?
Can I just disconnect it, Or does it require a part?
If a part is required, what is it called and where do I get it?
Any info will be sincerely appreciated.
Thanks ,,,,,,,,,Ed
#3
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Jan 2005
Location: Thousand Oaks California
Posts: 5,611
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Pulling the #10 fuse will set a code, but the MIL will not turn on.
Disconnecting the CAGS will turn on the MIL and set a code.
The best way is to install a CAGS eliminator ($15) which contains a resistor of correct value. This way there will be not codes set and no MIL.
Disconnecting the CAGS will turn on the MIL and set a code.
The best way is to install a CAGS eliminator ($15) which contains a resistor of correct value. This way there will be not codes set and no MIL.
#4
Not sure if removing the fuse will throw up codes, I think it does. Either get a $20 skipshift eliminator or get a tune and disable CAGS. I chose the tune route and am very pleased. I can also re-enable it if necessary. Search the forum, lots of topics on this.
#5
Melting Slicks
Pulling the #10 fuse will set a code, but the MIL will not turn on.
Disconnecting the CAGS will turn on the MIL and set a code.
The best way is to install a CAGS eliminator ($15) which contains a resistor of correct value. This way there will be not codes set and no MIL.
Disconnecting the CAGS will turn on the MIL and set a code.
The best way is to install a CAGS eliminator ($15) which contains a resistor of correct value. This way there will be not codes set and no MIL.
#6
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Mar 2003
Location: Noblesville Indiana
Posts: 7,785
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CI 7-8 Veteran
St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05
I had the bypass kit on my C5 and it worked great. For the C6 I'm going to have it tuned out by DTE when they do my H/C package next week.
#7
# 10 Fuse
Thanks tor the tip.
I removed the fuse and it disabled the shift skip.
Only problem is "Check Engine" light in instrument panel came on.
I replaced the fuse and Shift Skip" began working again but "Check Engine " light remains on.
Maybe the computer is seeing the open circuit as an emission system problem, but replacing the fuse didn't make it happy
How do you reset the computer?
Thinking about disconnecting and reconnecting the battery but don't really want to reprogram whatever is lost when doing that.
Any ideas,,,,,,,,,,,,Ed
I removed the fuse and it disabled the shift skip.
Only problem is "Check Engine" light in instrument panel came on.
I replaced the fuse and Shift Skip" began working again but "Check Engine " light remains on.
Maybe the computer is seeing the open circuit as an emission system problem, but replacing the fuse didn't make it happy
How do you reset the computer?
Thinking about disconnecting and reconnecting the battery but don't really want to reprogram whatever is lost when doing that.
Any ideas,,,,,,,,,,,,Ed
#8
Team Owner
Thanks tor the tip.
I removed the fuse and it disabled the shift skip.
Only problem is "Check Engine" light in instrument panel came on.
I replaced the fuse and Shift Skip" began working again but "Check Engine " light remains on.
Maybe the computer is seeing the open circuit as an emission system problem, but replacing the fuse didn't make it happy
How do you reset the computer?
Thinking about disconnecting and reconnecting the battery but don't really want to reprogram whatever is lost when doing that.
Any ideas,,,,,,,,,,,,Ed
I removed the fuse and it disabled the shift skip.
Only problem is "Check Engine" light in instrument panel came on.
I replaced the fuse and Shift Skip" began working again but "Check Engine " light remains on.
Maybe the computer is seeing the open circuit as an emission system problem, but replacing the fuse didn't make it happy
How do you reset the computer?
Thinking about disconnecting and reconnecting the battery but don't really want to reprogram whatever is lost when doing that.
Any ideas,,,,,,,,,,,,Ed
#9
Thanks tor the tip.
I removed the fuse and it disabled the shift skip.
Only problem is "Check Engine" light in instrument panel came on.
I replaced the fuse and Shift Skip" began working again but "Check Engine " light remains on.
Maybe the computer is seeing the open circuit as an emission system problem, but replacing the fuse didn't make it happy
How do you reset the computer?
Thinking about disconnecting and reconnecting the battery but don't really want to reprogram whatever is lost when doing that.
Any ideas,,,,,,,,,,,,Ed
I removed the fuse and it disabled the shift skip.
Only problem is "Check Engine" light in instrument panel came on.
I replaced the fuse and Shift Skip" began working again but "Check Engine " light remains on.
Maybe the computer is seeing the open circuit as an emission system problem, but replacing the fuse didn't make it happy
How do you reset the computer?
Thinking about disconnecting and reconnecting the battery but don't really want to reprogram whatever is lost when doing that.
Any ideas,,,,,,,,,,,,Ed
#10
Thanks tor the tip.
I removed the fuse and it disabled the shift skip.
Only problem is "Check Engine" light in instrument panel came on.
I replaced the fuse and Shift Skip" began working again but "Check Engine " light remains on.
Maybe the computer is seeing the open circuit as an emission system problem, but replacing the fuse didn't make it happy
How do you reset the computer?
Thinking about disconnecting and reconnecting the battery but don't really want to reprogram whatever is lost when doing that.
Any ideas,,,,,,,,,,,,Ed
I removed the fuse and it disabled the shift skip.
Only problem is "Check Engine" light in instrument panel came on.
I replaced the fuse and Shift Skip" began working again but "Check Engine " light remains on.
Maybe the computer is seeing the open circuit as an emission system problem, but replacing the fuse didn't make it happy
How do you reset the computer?
Thinking about disconnecting and reconnecting the battery but don't really want to reprogram whatever is lost when doing that.
Any ideas,,,,,,,,,,,,Ed
i had use a 2.2k resistor for over 15 months now with no issue, you do have to get under the car.
#11
Instructor
C5 Z06 Track Day Car
Original owner, (I've had car for 3 yrs) had skip shift delete kit installed years ago. Last year while at the track CEL came on. According to the code (PO803)it has to do with the Skip Shift deal. I've cleared it with my code reader but eventually it comes back. I've been ignoring it the past 1.5 years. But, car needs to go in for state inspection this month. I'll clear the code and hopefully it will stay off long enough to pass inspection. It seems if you have a CEL that you've cleared you need to drive it at least 50 miles so it does not show up on the states test. A few years ago I cleared a CEL and went to state inspection, it failed. Inspector asked me if I recently cleared a code. He said I should drive it at least 50 miles and then bring it back. I did and it passed and CEL came back on a few days later.
Any idea what caused this CEL Code to appear and what the fix would be.
Thanks
Original owner, (I've had car for 3 yrs) had skip shift delete kit installed years ago. Last year while at the track CEL came on. According to the code (PO803)it has to do with the Skip Shift deal. I've cleared it with my code reader but eventually it comes back. I've been ignoring it the past 1.5 years. But, car needs to go in for state inspection this month. I'll clear the code and hopefully it will stay off long enough to pass inspection. It seems if you have a CEL that you've cleared you need to drive it at least 50 miles so it does not show up on the states test. A few years ago I cleared a CEL and went to state inspection, it failed. Inspector asked me if I recently cleared a code. He said I should drive it at least 50 miles and then bring it back. I did and it passed and CEL came back on a few days later.
Any idea what caused this CEL Code to appear and what the fix would be.
Thanks
Last edited by mwestc5; 05-29-2017 at 04:44 PM.
#12
Le Mans Master
Yeah, a simple scan tool would erase the code, or do all kinds of crazy antics some think work, but doesn't. The skip shift is considered an emissions related circuit (and device) that was required to get the Corvette certified w/o a gas guzzler tax, thus, the circuit design had to include a failure notification. So the circuit is monitored for current. If it detects an electrical failure (no current from pulling the fuse) it sets a CEL.
The "correct bypass" is to put a resistor in the circuit which reduces voltage to the trans solenoid. The circuit always maintains a current but the resistor keeps voltage low enough that it is not enough to energize the trans lockout solenoid. The dash lights still show skip shift, but the lockout doesn't work allowing you to control what gear you want at any time.
When done through the tune, essentially, you're telling the ECM to stop checking for voltage in the circuit, so skip shift is never commanded and no light set. Either a resistor or the tune route does the job correctly.
The "correct bypass" is to put a resistor in the circuit which reduces voltage to the trans solenoid. The circuit always maintains a current but the resistor keeps voltage low enough that it is not enough to energize the trans lockout solenoid. The dash lights still show skip shift, but the lockout doesn't work allowing you to control what gear you want at any time.
When done through the tune, essentially, you're telling the ECM to stop checking for voltage in the circuit, so skip shift is never commanded and no light set. Either a resistor or the tune route does the job correctly.
#13
Instructor
Skip Shift CEL
Blindspot
Thanks for your response. I'm no mechanic aside from doing my own brakes/fluids I'm pretty much lost mechanically. I read your explanation a few times and was just as lost the last time I read it as the 1st time. But, you got me thinking and I did more research based on what you said. I found a few more posts and pics of the process you described. After reading your post again it started to almost make sense to me. I now think it's something I may be able to handle. But, it also got me thinking. The original owner had some kind of skip shift delete thing installed. I saw the bill for it in the mass of papers he gave me.
I am thinking maybe something originally installed came loose and my guess is it's probably in the same location as the the fix you described would be. As soon as I get time I'll jack up the rear of this thing get a couple of jack stands under there and check out the original fix and see if I can either fix it or do what you described.
Will let you know how it turns out.
Thanks
Thanks for your response. I'm no mechanic aside from doing my own brakes/fluids I'm pretty much lost mechanically. I read your explanation a few times and was just as lost the last time I read it as the 1st time. But, you got me thinking and I did more research based on what you said. I found a few more posts and pics of the process you described. After reading your post again it started to almost make sense to me. I now think it's something I may be able to handle. But, it also got me thinking. The original owner had some kind of skip shift delete thing installed. I saw the bill for it in the mass of papers he gave me.
I am thinking maybe something originally installed came loose and my guess is it's probably in the same location as the the fix you described would be. As soon as I get time I'll jack up the rear of this thing get a couple of jack stands under there and check out the original fix and see if I can either fix it or do what you described.
Will let you know how it turns out.
Thanks
#14
Le Mans Master
Blindspot
Thanks for your response. I'm no mechanic aside from doing my own brakes/fluids I'm pretty much lost mechanically. I read your explanation a few times and was just as lost the last time I read it as the 1st time. But, you got me thinking and I did more research based on what you said. I found a few more posts and pics of the process you described. After reading your post again it started to almost make sense to me. I now think it's something I may be able to handle. But, it also got me thinking. The original owner had some kind of skip shift delete thing installed. I saw the bill for it in the mass of papers he gave me.
I am thinking maybe something originally installed came loose and my guess is it's probably in the same location as the the fix you described would be. As soon as I get time I'll jack up the rear of this thing get a couple of jack stands under there and check out the original fix and see if I can either fix it or do what you described.
Will let you know how it turns out.
Thanks
Thanks for your response. I'm no mechanic aside from doing my own brakes/fluids I'm pretty much lost mechanically. I read your explanation a few times and was just as lost the last time I read it as the 1st time. But, you got me thinking and I did more research based on what you said. I found a few more posts and pics of the process you described. After reading your post again it started to almost make sense to me. I now think it's something I may be able to handle. But, it also got me thinking. The original owner had some kind of skip shift delete thing installed. I saw the bill for it in the mass of papers he gave me.
I am thinking maybe something originally installed came loose and my guess is it's probably in the same location as the the fix you described would be. As soon as I get time I'll jack up the rear of this thing get a couple of jack stands under there and check out the original fix and see if I can either fix it or do what you described.
Will let you know how it turns out.
Thanks
OK, no prob. Let me give you some more. If you're going to use a "resistance" in the circuit route, instead of the tune, there are two ways of doing it. One, is with a "resistor" fuse that plugs into and replaces the standard fuse. This fuse reduces the voltage in the circuit, but is unreliable (wait, so many are coming to say their fuses have lasted multi million miles - LOL). The fuse gets too hot and eventually blows. Then there is a skip shift harness that plugs directly into the trans and places a resistor into the circuit there. I've used the trans harness and it was reliable, but then I got into tuning and tuned out the skip shift myself. So, look at the fuse, then look at the trans plug/harness and see if there is a bypass there.
Last edited by BlindSpot; 05-29-2017 at 06:05 PM.
#15
Instructor
OK, no prob. Let me give you some more. If you're going to use a "resistance" in the circuit route, instead of the tune, there are two ways of doing it. One, is with a "resistor" fuse that plugs into and replaces the standard fuse. This fuse reduces the voltage in the circuit, but is unreliable (wait, so many are coming to say their fuses have lasted multi million miles - LOL). The fuse gets too hot and eventually blows. Then there is a skip shift harness that plugs directly into the trans and places a resistor into the circuit there. I've used the trans harness and it was reliable, but then I got into tuning and tuned out the skip shift myself. So, look at the fuse, then look at the trans plug/harness and see if there is a bypass there.
I searched through the original owners records and found this:
CAGS (Skip Shift) Bypass Harness, Installation Instructions.
Looks like this is what was installed. Sounds like what you're talking about. I've got the install instructions and some pics. I'm guessing something here got disconnected. My plan is to get under here in the next day or so and try and trouble shoot this thing. I'm heading to the track on Sun for Mon-Tues. I expect a few Vette guys to be there, if I have not figured it out by then I'm hopeful someone there can figure it out. Will let you know how it turns out.
Thanks
#16
Le Mans Master
Blindspot
I searched through the original owners records and found this:
CAGS (Skip Shift) Bypass Harness, Installation Instructions.
Looks like this is what was installed. Sounds like what you're talking about. I've got the install instructions and some pics. I'm guessing something here got disconnected. My plan is to get under here in the next day or so and try and trouble shoot this thing. I'm heading to the track on Sun for Mon-Tues. I expect a few Vette guys to be there, if I have not figured it out by then I'm hopeful someone there can figure it out. Will let you know how it turns out.
Thanks
I searched through the original owners records and found this:
CAGS (Skip Shift) Bypass Harness, Installation Instructions.
Looks like this is what was installed. Sounds like what you're talking about. I've got the install instructions and some pics. I'm guessing something here got disconnected. My plan is to get under here in the next day or so and try and trouble shoot this thing. I'm heading to the track on Sun for Mon-Tues. I expect a few Vette guys to be there, if I have not figured it out by then I'm hopeful someone there can figure it out. Will let you know how it turns out.
Thanks
Here is a stupidly bad pic of mine when I had it (before tuning it out). Look for this connection on the DRIVER's side of the trans, The original plug is seen in the distance and the bypass harness plugs into the trans and then into the original harness. It is possible the resistor in this harness failed. If so, google CAGS bypass harness, there are vendors out there with a replacement - $15-$20. Simple plug/play.
#18
Blown "Littlefuse SmartGlow Fuse" is the way to do this
Guys,
I successfully followed the instructions in this link:
https://xse.com/leres/z06/cags.html
You'll need to buy a 10 amp mini Littlefuse Smartglow fuse. The part number for that is 0MIN010.VPGLO and they are available at autoparts stores, Amazon, etc. You'll then need to blow the fuse. I used the battery charger method, but I believe you can also short it across the battery. The LED will start glowing when it is done. Then swap it out for the existing CAGS fuse at position #10 (important, must be this position, lots of people put it in the spot for their interior lighting and tail lights by mistake) in the underhood fuse block. That's it, you are done. No under car work needed. No check engine light. Just easy 1-2 shifts without CAGS. The shift indicator on the gauge cluster will still illuminate, but the servos are disabled so no skip shift at all.
I successfully followed the instructions in this link:
https://xse.com/leres/z06/cags.html
You'll need to buy a 10 amp mini Littlefuse Smartglow fuse. The part number for that is 0MIN010.VPGLO and they are available at autoparts stores, Amazon, etc. You'll then need to blow the fuse. I used the battery charger method, but I believe you can also short it across the battery. The LED will start glowing when it is done. Then swap it out for the existing CAGS fuse at position #10 (important, must be this position, lots of people put it in the spot for their interior lighting and tail lights by mistake) in the underhood fuse block. That's it, you are done. No under car work needed. No check engine light. Just easy 1-2 shifts without CAGS. The shift indicator on the gauge cluster will still illuminate, but the servos are disabled so no skip shift at all.
#19
Team Owner
Here's how the 2005 owner's manual tells you to eliminate that problem on page 2-28:
Just avoid those 3 situations.
Notice: Forcing the shift lever into any gear except
FOURTH (4) when the 1 TO 4 SHIFT light comes
on may damage the transmission. Shift only from
FIRST (1) to FOURTH (4) when the light comes on.
This light will come on when:
• The engine coolant temperature is higher than
169°F (76°C),
• you are going 15 to 19 mph (24 to 31 km/h) and
• you are 21 percent throttle or less.
FOURTH (4) when the 1 TO 4 SHIFT light comes
on may damage the transmission. Shift only from
FIRST (1) to FOURTH (4) when the light comes on.
This light will come on when:
• The engine coolant temperature is higher than
169°F (76°C),
• you are going 15 to 19 mph (24 to 31 km/h) and
• you are 21 percent throttle or less.
#20
The resistor is the cheapest method and fairly simple to jury rig into the connector.
I did mine via tune and basically made the conditions for skip shift impossible to happen. Since I mess with the tune on both my cars, getting HP tuners was a viable option for me, but if you do want to learn to tune your car, you can buy a tuner program and remove unwanted things like torque management or skip shift....
I did mine via tune and basically made the conditions for skip shift impossible to happen. Since I mess with the tune on both my cars, getting HP tuners was a viable option for me, but if you do want to learn to tune your car, you can buy a tuner program and remove unwanted things like torque management or skip shift....