I was wondering where is the best place to have a torque wrench calabrated? I have owned it for about 3 years. I only use it on my wheels, Do you guys think i should get it done? and what is the cost? Thanks alot

Rob

 

the only torque wrench calibrator that i have seen was on a snap-on truck once.... other than that, i know people that have sent in their snap-on torque wrench for calibration... don't remember the cost...that was a few years ago.

if it is a decent torque wrench, it would probably still be accurate for torquing lug nuts...

 

Snap On used to check torque wrenches, don't know if they still do or not.

RonJ ...

 

I send my Snap-Ons to Team Torque.

http://www.teamtorque.com/

 

Make sure you set it back to 0 when not in use.

 

Yup! We're tightening lug nuts on a car not the engines on the space shuttle.

 

I've got one of those "el Cheapo" Harbor Freight torque wrenches and it's ok upwards of say 40 pounds but anything less than that and it won't give you a definite click. Whatdaya want for $12 right?

 

Thanks alot guys

Rob

 

$35 for a click type torque wrench up to 250 ft-lbs is expensive for me. Probably reasonable, BUT considering the cost of my torque wrenchs, too much. Also, mine get little use. They recommend recalibration after 18,000 cycles !! Let's see, 18,000/20 = 900 complete tire rotations (on a normal car, not a C5) !

 

 

I too purchased a torque calibration tool but haven't used it yet. So how does one go about recalibrating a torque wrench?

 

Here is a procedure I have used for the last s4 years. copied form CF or someone else at that time1. A heavy duty vise and a sturdy work bench.

The size and quality of the vise will depend on how high your torque wrench reads.

A ½” 250 lb.ft. torque wrench will need a heavy duty vise with strong jaws. It will also require that the vise be mounted to a sturdy work surface.

2.Weights. I used pieces of bar steel, but barbell weights are perfect.

The exact weight doesn’t matter. What does matter is getting weights that will allow you to test the wrench in the normal range that you use it. You can test at only one weight, but if you want to check consistency, get 2 or 3 of them and stack them.

As a general guide, if you have a 3/8” and 1/2” wrench like I do, weights in the range of 20 to 55 lbs will suffice.

3.String or bailing wire to hang the weights from the torque wrench.

4.A method to weigh your weights.

Stop by your local UPS store or the post office as ask them if they can weigh them for you.

Don’t rely on a bathroom scale.

They are too inaccurate and you will just be wasting your time.

If you permanently mark the numbers on the weights, this is the only time you will ever have to do it.

I need to point out here that weights should be chosen to give you measurements that are in the heart of the tool’s adjustment range, or the range that you normally use it. Don’t use a 20lb weight on a 250 ft.lb. wrench.

Not only should you never measure torque in this range with this size wrench, but the wrench will be very inacurrate in that lower 10% range. I found that my 250 lb.ft. wrench was off by 25% at 27 lb.ft.

Procedure:

1. Mount the square drive of the wrench in a vice.

It should be oriented so that the handle pivots vertically. (Use the side of the vise jaws.)

Set the handle in a position as close to parallel with the ground as possible.

Also make certain that the wrench is set for tightening, not loosening.

2. Devise a method for hanging your weights from the string.

If you are using barbells, you can run a large eyelet bolt through the middle and use large fender washers.

Tie a loop in the top of the string.

4. Wrap your hand around the handle where you normally grab it and mark the center point.

Usually the middle finger or just to the right, between the middle finger and ring finger is close.

You can also use the center of the grip as a calibration point. The reasons are explained at the end of this procedure.

5. Hang the weight from the handle where you marked it. (If you have a soft, cushioned grip, protect it with something like a thin piece of rubber.)



6. Start adjusting the torque until the handle clicks.

If it clicks right away, lift the weights and back off on the setting.

Keep going back and forth with the adjustment until you find the setting where it just barely clicks.

Every time the wrench clicks you will have to lift your weights to reset it.

7. When you find the transition point between clicking and not clicking, make note of the setting the wrench clicks and write it down.

8. While you are at it, grab a tape measure and measure the distance from the point where the string hangs from the handle to the exact center point of the square drive.

If you have a typical wrench with a direction dial on the back, you can usually measure to the midpoint of the dial if it is directly behind the square drive. The more accurate you are with this measurement, the more accurate the results will be. Nearest 1/8” is ok.

 

Here is some light reading that applies to this subject. This is the torque wrench technical order we used for maintenance in thr Air Force.

 

I wont even bother for lug nuts.

 

7 yrs later
wondering how long it takes to find something that old?
asking for a friend

 

17 years later...