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I was thinking of putting a hat on it just to try and make it different from all the others .... oh well the exciting part is that its back home from its date with the frame rack and in the garage, now painted and once dry ready for components and I have been collecting and cleaning!!
The wet look just after the spray ....
... and sataining down after a little cure time.
So I've turned off the lights and closed the door, tomorrow is another day, and speaking tomorrow well that's another post.
Dave
Last edited by The Phantom; 09-01-2017 at 06:40 PM.
OK, panel correction was a pretty short lived process and moved to ... could it be ... is it possible ... OMG ONE COLOUR ... YES ... HIGH BUILD PRIMER!!!
As much work as I've done, the primer just magnifies how much correction is left to do, let the blocking begin!
And the beat goes on, I have assembled the front left suspension I was all excited about having the whole kit and kabuttle ready to roll when I opened that box with the x drilled and slotted rotor that I bought 2 years back. Ready to pop in the new wheel bearings and seals ... as I said, the beat goes on.
Dave
Last edited by The Phantom; 09-01-2017 at 07:10 PM.
I was thinking of putting a hat on it just to try and make it different from all the others .... oh well the exciting part is that its back home from its date with the frame rack and in the garage, now painted and once dry ready for components and I have been collecting and cleaning!!
The wet look just after the spray ....
... and sataining down after a little cure time.
So I've turned off the lights and closed the door, tomorrow is another day, and speaking tomorrow well that's another post.
Dave
Dave
I get the advantage as I do all of my work her at home 100% so if I mess something up I just get to do it again no one to blame but me
Wes
Ok a little catch up moved to the rear and been busy on the drivers side ....
OK Mr Bats, I remember a post where you were looking for trailing arm shim and cotter pin info, maybe its late but here you go. Mine on the left took on the outboard frame side one thick, one medium and three thin ones. On the inboard differential side it took one thick and one medium. The cotter pin is 4.5" long.
... and the beat goes on.
Dave
Last edited by The Phantom; 09-01-2017 at 07:14 PM.
Ok here's a little update, the Steeroids rack is in (an easy user freindly install I have to say) and the brakes are on all four corners. The chassis is a roller for the first time in just under a year, I'm happy with the progress up to now.
More updates to follow.
Dave
Last edited by The Phantom; 09-02-2017 at 07:25 AM.
She's a roller yeah .... so I broke out the good camera and took some outdoor shots, she's sitting high and in dire need of an alignment but she is ready for the motor and tranny ... and dare I say the body reinstall. I know I'm getting a little ahead but the #4 body mount bolts had to be cut, has anyone been successful in removing them after cutting or is it easier to replace the cage and nut.
... and the beat goes on!
Dave
Last edited by The Phantom; 09-02-2017 at 07:34 AM.
I was thinking of putting a hat on it just to try and make it different from all the others .... oh well the exciting part is that its back home from its date with the frame rack and in the garage, now painted and once dry ready for components and I have been collecting and cleaning!!
The wet look just after the spray ....
... and sataining down after a little cure time.
So I've turned off the lights and closed the door, tomorrow is another day, and speaking tomorrow well that's another post.
Dave
They go back together easy and clean
Every rubber piece in the chassis and very easy to install unless you want 100% original
The car had a TH400 in it factory, I am updating to a Monster 200r4 behind the 355ci.
Dave
Cool
If I may just throw this out there. Careful with the trans coolant lines, the gusset on the outside of the lower control arm mount really closes in where the lines can run. Not bad if your bending your own but not great if your using pre-bent
I didn't find out until after the motor was in, would have been much easier earlier
....I know I'm getting a little ahead but the #4 body mount bolts had to be cut, has anyone been successful in removing them after cutting or is it easier to replace the cage and nut.
....
Dave
If you can hold the nut and there is enough of the bolt that got cut off to get a hold of you may be able to work it out,
IIRC 1-1/2" square socket would fit over the cage for the nut, I couldn't find one when I needed it so I had to improvise (cage rivets sheared off so this was 1-1/4 sqr tube, just over an inch inside and fit the nut but you get the idea)
Second time around I didn't want to risk breaking the cage rivets again so made up my version of a sqr socket
06-07-2015, 07:20 PM
Iiiiiitttttttsssss back!!
(Although still a long way off!)
, I'm very happy! More pic's to follow.
