Swapping out Supercharger cover - any concerns?
#1
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Swapping out Supercharger cover - any concerns?
I'm also going to be swapping out the supercharger cover for a painted one . . . still OEM. Is it really just as simple as removing the bolts and replacing it with the new one? Anything else to be concerned about? Is there a particular torque that should be applied to the bolts? Thanks for the help!!
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11-13-2015, 09:04 PM
Racer
Yep - really that simple.
Tips:
- You'll need a 10mm wrench to get at the 3 center rear bolts toward the fire wall (tight clearance) - the rest can be had by a socket/ratchet.
- Each bolt has a rubber seal around it inside the hole - some may pull out with the bolt - just keep track of them and make sure each one has a seal when re-assembling.
- When re-assembling, bolts are torqued to 18-22 inch pounds (NOT foot pounds!). Tighten in a cross hatch pattern from the inside bolts to outside. Do not over tighten.
Tips:
- You'll need a 10mm wrench to get at the 3 center rear bolts toward the fire wall (tight clearance) - the rest can be had by a socket/ratchet.
- Each bolt has a rubber seal around it inside the hole - some may pull out with the bolt - just keep track of them and make sure each one has a seal when re-assembling.
- When re-assembling, bolts are torqued to 18-22 inch pounds (NOT foot pounds!). Tighten in a cross hatch pattern from the inside bolts to outside. Do not over tighten.
Barry
#8
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Yep - really that simple.
Tips:
- You'll need a 10mm wrench to get at the 3 center rear bolts toward the fire wall (tight clearance) - the rest can be had by a socket/ratchet.
- Each bolt has a rubber seal around it inside the hole - some may pull out with the bolt - just keep track of them and make sure each one has a seal when re-assembling.
- When re-assembling, bolts are torqued to 18-22 inch pounds (NOT foot pounds!). Tighten in a cross hatch pattern from the inside bolts to outside. Do not over tighten.
Tips:
- You'll need a 10mm wrench to get at the 3 center rear bolts toward the fire wall (tight clearance) - the rest can be had by a socket/ratchet.
- Each bolt has a rubber seal around it inside the hole - some may pull out with the bolt - just keep track of them and make sure each one has a seal when re-assembling.
- When re-assembling, bolts are torqued to 18-22 inch pounds (NOT foot pounds!). Tighten in a cross hatch pattern from the inside bolts to outside. Do not over tighten.
#9
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Got everything from CorvetteMods. You can special order any OEM paint you want. I chose Carbon Flash Metallic as the rest of the car is Velocity Yellow with Carbon Flash Metallic trim. Yellow was tempting, but I thought the contrast would be better . . . and the understatement cool. Here are the rest of the components (they don't have a package, but will give you a package discount when you get this many components). I special ordered the valve covers to my own specs (insignia, etc.). The sales rep that helped me was Gabe. He even had some good suggestions of his own. Great interaction. Thanks for the compliments everyone.
#10
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#12
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#13
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Louisville Ky NCM Lifetime Member 429 (Member Since 1993)
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St. Jude Donor '12-'13, '16
That's going to look fantastic! My only concern is how will the paint hold up over time?
Like I said...looks great. Very classy.
Like I said...looks great. Very classy.
#14
Racer
Yep - really that simple.
Tips:
- You'll need a 10mm wrench to get at the 3 center rear bolts toward the fire wall (tight clearance) - the rest can be had by a socket/ratchet.
- Each bolt has a rubber seal around it inside the hole - some may pull out with the bolt - just keep track of them and make sure each one has a seal when re-assembling.
- When re-assembling, bolts are torqued to 18-22 inch pounds (NOT foot pounds!). Tighten in a cross hatch pattern from the inside bolts to outside. Do not over tighten.
Tips:
- You'll need a 10mm wrench to get at the 3 center rear bolts toward the fire wall (tight clearance) - the rest can be had by a socket/ratchet.
- Each bolt has a rubber seal around it inside the hole - some may pull out with the bolt - just keep track of them and make sure each one has a seal when re-assembling.
- When re-assembling, bolts are torqued to 18-22 inch pounds (NOT foot pounds!). Tighten in a cross hatch pattern from the inside bolts to outside. Do not over tighten.
Barry
The following 9 users liked this post by bearmans:
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and 4 others liked this post.
#16
On the breather tube, rather than try and get it out and risk breaking the plastic retainer tab as seems to be the case with most, I used my heat gun and pulled the tube off the connectors and then slid the cover over the l-connector while still in the hole. Requires a little bit of angle but mine came off and went on smoothly - no issues and no worry about a piece of broken plastic rattling around.
Good luck - let's see the finished product.
#17
Safety Car
Torque Specs.
10 N-m = 88.5 in-lbs (not ft.lbs.) See bearmans post#14 for correct torque.
That's the torque value I used. I went around and snugged everything down first before using the inch pound torque wrench.
Some of the bolts (rear) you may not be able to use the torque wrench on, so do those by feel comparing to the ones that you could use the torque wrench on.
Here is the 10mm wrench I modified by heating & bending in a vice which worked out like a charm on the rear bolts.
PS: Painting the supercharger cover if you are worried about getting every last bit of the car's performance may not be a good thing. The extra layer or two of paint will help hold the heat in.
That's the torque value I used. I went around and snugged everything down first before using the inch pound torque wrench.
Some of the bolts (rear) you may not be able to use the torque wrench on, so do those by feel comparing to the ones that you could use the torque wrench on.
Here is the 10mm wrench I modified by heating & bending in a vice which worked out like a charm on the rear bolts.
PS: Painting the supercharger cover if you are worried about getting every last bit of the car's performance may not be a good thing. The extra layer or two of paint will help hold the heat in.
Last edited by C7/Z06 Man; 03-31-2018 at 10:02 AM.
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Sin4no1 (10-20-2020)
#18
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#19
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The correct and proper way to torque the cover is start at the 3rd from the back bolt, passenger side, go across the middle to the drivers side, forward 1 then back across the middle to the pass. side, that is 8 bolts. go to the 2nd from back pass. side, 2nd from back driver side, 2nd from front driver side, 2nd from front pass. side, 5 across the back, 3 across the front. Then, do the first 8 over again. ALL torqued to 10nm. Factory specs and the way we do it at the PBC in Bowling Green.
Barry
Barry
#20
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I did both these mods - took less than an hour with the hardest part sliding the coil covers in without scratching. Really great dress up for the engine bay!
On the breather tube, rather than try and get it out and risk breaking the plastic retainer tab as seems to be the case with most, I used my heat gun and pulled the tube off the connectors and then slid the cover over the l-connector while still in the hole. Requires a little bit of angle but mine came off and went on smoothly - no issues and no worry about a piece of broken plastic rattling around.
Good luck - let's see the finished product.
On the breather tube, rather than try and get it out and risk breaking the plastic retainer tab as seems to be the case with most, I used my heat gun and pulled the tube off the connectors and then slid the cover over the l-connector while still in the hole. Requires a little bit of angle but mine came off and went on smoothly - no issues and no worry about a piece of broken plastic rattling around.
Good luck - let's see the finished product.