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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
I have used Rustoleum 2-part epoxy on two garage floors. The current garage coating is 9 years old this June and is in great shape. No lifting or wear.
The first garage floor I used grey. The second I used tan. The first floor was painted in July 2005 and is still in good shape (I rent the house out and haven't closely inspected the floor).
A quality 100% solids epoxy will not have problem with hot tire pickup as long as the floor is properly etched & cleaned or surface ground. The only problems I've had in the past were certain chemicals that reacted with the epoxy. I've laid ceder fence boards on a coated floor that turned it yellow. Like any floor covering it does require care and caution when dragging things across it, but it is otherwise really durable.
I'd read some reviews and get recommendations from a garage floor forum. There are other poly-type coatings that have become popular and have advantages over epoxy.
What kind of Epoxy Floor Coating have you used?
Have you had any issues with "Hot Tire Pick up"?
The key factor to any kind of Epoxy Floor Coating is preparation. The best prep is using a diamond grinder to remove a thin top layer of concrete. This not only provides a clean surface, but a more porous surface for the base coat to adhere to. Followed by a ton of flake, which will provide a non slippery surface. The flake will adhere and dry to the base coat. Then apply a clear coat sealer. Follow this, and you are assured of a lift free floor coating, that will last significantly longer. Remember, proper preparation.
BTW, my floor does not require using mats for hot tires. This floor is at our property in Naples, FL.
Last edited by capecodvette; 04-20-2016 at 12:52 PM.
It was a two part professional grade epoxy sprinkle with flakes after it was applied. The main key to any epoxy on concrete is preparation time. either used a shot blaster, sander or anything that will rough up the top surface on the concrete so the epoxy will have a rough surface to "bite" into.
The key factor to any kind of Epoxy Floor Coating is preparation. The best prep is using a diamond grinder to remove a thin top layer of concrete. This not only provides a clean surface, but a more porous surface for the base coat to adhere to. Followed by a ton of flake, which will provide a non slippery surface. The flake will adhere and dry to the base coat. Then apply a clear coat sealer. Follow this, and you are assured of a lift free floor coating, that will last significantly longer. Remember, proper preparation.
BTW, my floor does not require using mats for hot tires. This floor is at our property in Naples, FL.
When building my street rod in 2000 was planning on epoxy installed by a "pro" but not sure if he was going to use a diamond grinder on my 10 year old floor.
A buddy with a new home said don't do it as he did and had peeling, He followed all the prep recommended, acid wash etc, but did it himself so probably didn't diamond grind.
The key decision point was made when I went to the best paint store in town and asked about what they had for floor epoxy. The salesman said, "If I were you, I'd do what my friend did in his garage use vinyl tile in a checker board pattern!" They sell epoxy of several types BUT don't sell tile! A friend down the street did use B&W tile in a checker board pattern on his garage floor looked great when new but the white quickly became stained.
Went to the rug/tile store and they wanted twice Lowe's price for commercial 1/8 inch thick tile, so bought a brown speckled tile from Lowe's. Thought it would help hide the dirt and it does. Lowe's did not have the color selection available at the tile store. Bought the best adhesive available from the tile store.
Much less prep, only washing. No worry about some oil stains on the 10 year old floor. With the wife and I working together it took one day to finish the install for the 3 car, deep garage with a passage walkway. Used 1/8 inch thick rounded molding under each door and vinyl strip along the walls that covered small gaps.
This is a pic taken when I installed my side skirts on the C7 when the floor was 12+ years old. Not even one corner has lifted, all are stuck as when they were put down! Has served us very well and easy to clean as it is used as a functional work area. Pick below taken when making stanchions in prep for installing side skirts when all 4 wheels needed to be off the ground and no side jacks could interfere.
12 year old floor. Commercial 1/8 inch thick tile. Does get stained from hot tires.
Was going to go that route but decided to use Swisstrax.
It's being delivered this week.
Much easier process and won't stink up the house.
Can do a whole garage floor in a couple of hours and drive on it right after.
What kind of Epoxy Floor Coating have you used?
Have you had any issues with "Hot Tire Pick up"?
Yes I had hot tire issues so I bought a couple garage mats and cut them in half so they would be 2" X 3' !!! Now i am having a crack in the floor rearing it's ugly head so it bubble up and I think I need to patch it up !!! Yikes !!! Wayne
Was going to go that route but decided to use Swisstrax.
It's being delivered this week.
Much easier process and won't stink up the house.
Can do a whole garage floor in a couple of hours and drive on it right after.
Polyaspartic does not create the same odor as early products did. I know, installed in Florida. I was amazed, virtually no odor and the surface dries much quicker.
I will have a new garage floor to deal with shortly. Still trying to decide the best treatment for it. Epoxy looks great but I have seen some bad examples where the coating flakes off. I'm sure the prep, or lack of, had a lot to do with that. But I'm am thinking about other routes like penetrating sealers. Winter salt is a big concern for me.
04-20-2016, 11:03 AM
When building my street rod in 2000 was planning on epoxy installed by a "pro" but not sure if he was going to use a diamond grinder on my 10 year old floor.
