Buying a 2005 C6
#1
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
Buying a 2005 C6
Quick background;
New user, long time lurker and reader of the Corvetteforum. I grew up owning and working on GM products both gas and diesel. I consider myself a competent mechanic with a home garage to work on my vehicles. Not a fan of going to the dealership by any means. I now have the means to purchase my dream car C6 Corvette and after a few weeks of test drives and negotiations I have a few questions regarding 2005 Base C6's on the used car market.
I have come across a nicely optioned 1 owner 2005 Z51 6 Speed C6 within my budget and before I go check it out I have a few questions.
Here is my Vette buyers checklist, is there anything I am missing or overlooking?
- Check Harmonic Balancer wobble/squeaks
- Oil Pan seeping/leakage
- Cracked / Damaged Radiator lower supports
- Strong Fuel smell, driver side fuel tank/ fuel pump
- Rattling or drivetrain noises at idle / possible torque tube
- Faulty door handles
- Faulty key fob
- Service Active Handling
- Service column lock
- Chattering rear end
Lastly I'm buying this car as a summer time DD, no plans of any power adders other than headers/exhaust, CAI during the first year of ownership. How concerned should I be about the weaker rear diff found in 2005 Corvettes? I don't drag race, but an occasional burnout is fair game. I have read numerous threads on doing the C5Z diff swap but no clear indication on who sells the mounting bracket as of today (April 2017). Where can I order this bracket?
There also seems to be a mixture of opinions when it comes to the 2005 and 2006 C6 diff being interchangeable.
Can anyone with some past experience clear these questions up for me?
Much appreciated
- Cam
New user, long time lurker and reader of the Corvetteforum. I grew up owning and working on GM products both gas and diesel. I consider myself a competent mechanic with a home garage to work on my vehicles. Not a fan of going to the dealership by any means. I now have the means to purchase my dream car C6 Corvette and after a few weeks of test drives and negotiations I have a few questions regarding 2005 Base C6's on the used car market.
I have come across a nicely optioned 1 owner 2005 Z51 6 Speed C6 within my budget and before I go check it out I have a few questions.
Here is my Vette buyers checklist, is there anything I am missing or overlooking?
- Check Harmonic Balancer wobble/squeaks
- Oil Pan seeping/leakage
- Cracked / Damaged Radiator lower supports
- Strong Fuel smell, driver side fuel tank/ fuel pump
- Rattling or drivetrain noises at idle / possible torque tube
- Faulty door handles
- Faulty key fob
- Service Active Handling
- Service column lock
- Chattering rear end
Lastly I'm buying this car as a summer time DD, no plans of any power adders other than headers/exhaust, CAI during the first year of ownership. How concerned should I be about the weaker rear diff found in 2005 Corvettes? I don't drag race, but an occasional burnout is fair game. I have read numerous threads on doing the C5Z diff swap but no clear indication on who sells the mounting bracket as of today (April 2017). Where can I order this bracket?
There also seems to be a mixture of opinions when it comes to the 2005 and 2006 C6 diff being interchangeable.
Can anyone with some past experience clear these questions up for me?
Much appreciated
- Cam
#3
Drifting
You don't mention miles but for what it's worth I just had a bunch of maintenance done on my '05 A4 Z51 (31K miles). I wanted the differential fluid changed, mechanic showed me where the diff was leaking from the seals due to them "probably" drying up and cracking, again PROBABLY caused by low mileage. He only added about half a quart of fluid and I came back 2 weeks later and he replaced all 5 seals and the fluid, all good now. Get under the rear and look around with a light, you can see the seepage on the rear end. I never saw any leaks on the garage floor but oil seepage/sweat was very evident when I looked under the car. Good Luck!
#4
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
You don't mention miles but for what it's worth I just had a bunch of maintenance done on my '05 A4 Z51 (31K miles). I wanted the differential fluid changed, mechanic showed me where the diff was leaking from the seals due to them "probably" drying up and cracking, again PROBABLY caused by low mileage. He only added about half a quart of fluid and I came back 2 weeks later and he replaced all 5 seals and the fluid, all good now. Get under the rear and look around with a light, you can see the seepage on the rear end. I never saw any leaks on the garage floor but oil seepage/sweat was very evident when I looked under the car. Good Luck!
I will be sure to inspect the car thoroughly on the lift at the dealers service dept.
#5
Drifting
1.-replaced with an ATI just because I'm not a gambler
2.-VERY slight seepage, not an issue at this time, no oil loss
3.-non-issue
4.-non-issue
5.-non-issue
6.-ordered new handles and replaced, very easy and inexpensive
7.-non-issue
8.-non-issue
9.-N/A
10.-non issue
Last edited by RobLo; 04-12-2017 at 11:29 AM.
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ChevyCam (04-12-2017)
#6
Burning Brakes
I just purchased a 2005 Z51 with 108k on it. The one thing I knew going in and was very prepared for was that the car could need some attention one way or another. It is a two owner car I was buying from a dealer so no telling what all I was getting into. Changes are you are going to have to address at least a couple of the items on that list sometime in the near future so be ready.
1: If the GM balancer is on there it is going to have to be replaced no matter if there is currently a wobble or not, there will be at some point. If you have the cash to fix it soon then I wouldn't worry about this much.
2: My guess is that it is seeping at the miles it has. If it is light then no worries. If no seeping then the owner is smarter than most and took care of it.
3: Easy fix if needed. If is is broken it is a good place to haggle on. $360 for the part. It a weld is cracked then it can just be rewelded for cheap. Mine is jacked from the previous owner(s) and is getting replaced soon.
4: Expensive fix. So make sure this isn't an issue.
5: Probably not an issue unless the car was abused.
6: Easy fix if needed. Mine are fineky at times but nothing to worry about.
7: Easy fix if needed.
8: Easy fix if needed.
9: No worries here really.
10: If it has it pretty easy fix, just some nice new correct fluid.
1: If the GM balancer is on there it is going to have to be replaced no matter if there is currently a wobble or not, there will be at some point. If you have the cash to fix it soon then I wouldn't worry about this much.
2: My guess is that it is seeping at the miles it has. If it is light then no worries. If no seeping then the owner is smarter than most and took care of it.
3: Easy fix if needed. If is is broken it is a good place to haggle on. $360 for the part. It a weld is cracked then it can just be rewelded for cheap. Mine is jacked from the previous owner(s) and is getting replaced soon.
4: Expensive fix. So make sure this isn't an issue.
5: Probably not an issue unless the car was abused.
6: Easy fix if needed. Mine are fineky at times but nothing to worry about.
7: Easy fix if needed.
8: Easy fix if needed.
9: No worries here really.
10: If it has it pretty easy fix, just some nice new correct fluid.
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ChevyCam (04-12-2017)
#7
Race Director
This isn't necessarily true. Not every balancer goes bad.
#8
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
Very quick and informative responses.
I have an appointment to look at the car on Saturday morning.
I will update my post with the findings.
Thank you all.
I have an appointment to look at the car on Saturday morning.
I will update my post with the findings.
Thank you all.
#9
Team Owner
Member Since: May 2000
Location: Plantation Florida USAF(Retired) 1966-1990
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U.S. Air Force
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
NCM Sinkhole Donor
I have 05, 60,000 miles driven, runs strong and great, owned it for many years, truly love the car.
Here is some reading material for you, Owners manual.
http://www.c6registry.com/Technical/manuals/2005OM.pdf
Here is some reading material for you, Owners manual.
http://www.c6registry.com/Technical/manuals/2005OM.pdf
#10
Melting Slicks
I will add just be sure the climate control works as it should, as this could be a real pita to repair as the dash would need to come out.
#12
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-'19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
NCM Sinkhole Donor
#15
Team Owner
Member Since: Jun 2005
Location: Northern, VA
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St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
If you ask me, and in a way you did, at 2005 the car is way past 10 years old. If it were me, I'd be ready to, and do all fluid changes--trans, clutch, rear, PS, PB, and especially, coolant. Since you have both your own tools/garage and been on here lurking, you know all about the fluids to use, the updated fluids from GM, how to purge coolant, etc.
Just as a backup to your knowing what has happened in the past to this car, you can go to any GM service dept. (does not have to be Chev) and ask via the vin number for the VIS (Vehicle Inquiry System) which is proprietary and nowhere else. It will tell you warranty work, tsb's done to the car, etc. It is not a complete service record, however.
Please come back and tell us how it went and what you saw. Pics would be nice, too----we are picture hounds! Good luck.
#16
Drifting
Good list OP.
110K LOVELY MILES ON MINE! I WOULD DO IT AGAIN
110K LOVELY MILES ON MINE! I WOULD DO IT AGAIN
#18
Le Mans Master
Traded an 05 coupe in on the Z06. Loved that car. Wish I could have kept it. 76k miles and absolutely no problems whatsoever. For what you are going to do with the car, I would not have any problems buying an 05 at all. Differential problems only happen if you get over about 700 hp, or if doing a burnout, you get wheel hop. Good luck.
#19
Heel & Toe
Thread Starter
Non functioning DIC controls.
Update;
I spent most of the day at the dealership thoroughly inspecting the car and negotiating a price with the finance manager.
During my initial inspection I found the DIC controls to the left side of the steering wheel non functioning. The set of controls to the right of the steering wheel all worked with a notable chime when pressed. No matter what I did the left buttons gave me no response.
Is there something simple I am missing here?
If infact they are truly malfunctioning what all is involved in fixing the controls.
Thanks
- Cam
I spent most of the day at the dealership thoroughly inspecting the car and negotiating a price with the finance manager.
During my initial inspection I found the DIC controls to the left side of the steering wheel non functioning. The set of controls to the right of the steering wheel all worked with a notable chime when pressed. No matter what I did the left buttons gave me no response.
Is there something simple I am missing here?
If infact they are truly malfunctioning what all is involved in fixing the controls.
Thanks
- Cam