M7 clutch fluid question
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
M7 clutch fluid question
The maintenance schedule says to change the clutch fluid after 30,000 miles, or, after two years, whichever comes first. Assuming you have far less than 30K miles on your car and don't track or abuse it on the street, what is the point of changing the clutch fluid after two years? Have any of you ignored this two year footnote and had any problems because you did?
#2
Team Owner
Clutch fluid IS brake fluid. Brake fluid is hydroscopic, it absorbs water even when in a sealed system. I think many, maybe most, owners subscribe to the change brake fluid every two years, clutch fluid is the same. In fact a lot of owners still do the Ranger clutch fluid flush several times a year, a carryover from the C6 years but I don't see it talked about as much in C7.
#3
The maintenance schedule says to change the clutch fluid after 30,000 miles, or, after two years, whichever comes first. Assuming you have far less than 30K miles on your car and don't track or abuse it on the street, what is the point of changing the clutch fluid after two years? Have any of you ignored this two year footnote and had any problems because you did?
#4
Melting Slicks
I just suck out the old stuff with a turkey baster and refill it, then pump the clutch a bunch. I kinda blew off doing that with my yellow GTO and had to put a new slave in it. Seals took a dump. Perhaps replacing the fluid over the years would have helped, dunno...
#5
Melting Slicks
I change mine when it looks dirty and normally do the Ranger Method at every OCI.
Fluid is cheap....why not do it?
Lot's of good fluids out there.
I use this on all my cars.
\db2
Fluid is cheap....why not do it?
Lot's of good fluids out there.
I use this on all my cars.
\db2
Last edited by dbaker; 04-14-2017 at 06:22 PM.
#6
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Clutch fluid IS brake fluid. Brake fluid is hydroscopic, it absorbs water even when in a sealed system. I think many, maybe most, owners subscribe to the change brake fluid every two years, clutch fluid is the same. In fact a lot of owners still do the Ranger clutch fluid flush several times a year, a carryover from the C6 years but I don't see it talked about as much in C7.
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
#8
Le Mans Master
I refresh the fluid in the reservoir every time I change the oil, or at least a couple times a year. Did this also on my 2004 z06 and never had a problem in 10 years.
#9
Ranger protocol: Suck fluid from reservoir, add fresh, pump 30 times, repeat.
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OneFastVette19 (11-13-2018)
#10
Racer
I renew the clutch fluid via the ranger method every oil change. You would be suprised how much clutch dust and moisture is in that clutch fluid pot. Its cheap insurance.
#11
Race Director
Here's a link by my fellow Ranger, Ranger - he's got some good info about the clutch system, and of course his method of swapping in fresh DOT 4 brake fluid into the clutch:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...al-issues.html
RLTW
.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...al-issues.html
RLTW
.
#12
I also am religious about using the Ranger method. Every time I check the oil, I extract a syringe full from the reservoir and add the same amount of new.
It was a big C6 issue, but can be a problem on the C7 too. We just recently had a poster, whose clutch was getting stuck, at 23K miles. She did the Ranger method, and problem solved.
It's a great alternative to putting the car on a lift and draining the fluid from below. It's also just very easy preventative maintenance.
It was a big C6 issue, but can be a problem on the C7 too. We just recently had a poster, whose clutch was getting stuck, at 23K miles. She did the Ranger method, and problem solved.
It's a great alternative to putting the car on a lift and draining the fluid from below. It's also just very easy preventative maintenance.
#13
Pro
Actually the Ranger method was used by C5 owners also. I think I remember Ranger was real fast in a C5 before he was real fast in a C6.
#14
Le Mans Master
#15
I met him and watched him run at Maryland International Raceway (MIR). He was a great guy and always helpful to everyone.
Whatever happened to him? Hope he's still with us.
The clutch pumping is only done after every extraction/fill cycle, if you're going to try to remove most of the dirty fluid at once. The best method is to do 10 bowls the first time or until the fluid is clear, and from then on, just extract a bowl full every month or so, in which case pumping isn't necessary. That will keep the fluid relatively clean in perpetuity.
Last edited by Foosh; 04-14-2017 at 11:17 PM.
#16
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
Member Since: Sep 2007
Location: NE South Carolina
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To "drain the fluid" from the slave cylinder requires removing the sheet metal that covers it and the exhaust pipe with catalytic converter on the drivers side! Not easy or cheap.
The Ranger method is easy and relies on the fact that the fluid master and slave cylinder mix as you pump the clutch. If your not drag racing where there could be a lot of clutch dust then it works fine for me, once per year. Might as well buy a small container of Dot 4 brake fluid and do it properly. I use the whole container as most are plastic that allows some moisture to permeate into it over time. The general recommendation is once opened not to reuse. 12 oz of Prestone DOT 4 ~$5 at Walmart- cheap.
This is a pic of mine after 1 year from the first replacement of the clutch reservoir contents and the 6th. In that case after 8 changes the fluid looked identical to what was in the new container. 30 pumps per change. 240 pumps! Good leg exercise! Only used it for 6 years in my C6 and 3 1/2 years in my 2014-not clutch issues.
If interested this is a 5 page PDF with pics and text: http://netwelding.com/Clutch_Fluid.pdf
Clutch Fluid After 1st and 6th Change Using a Simple Replace and Pump Proceedure
The Ranger method is easy and relies on the fact that the fluid master and slave cylinder mix as you pump the clutch. If your not drag racing where there could be a lot of clutch dust then it works fine for me, once per year. Might as well buy a small container of Dot 4 brake fluid and do it properly. I use the whole container as most are plastic that allows some moisture to permeate into it over time. The general recommendation is once opened not to reuse. 12 oz of Prestone DOT 4 ~$5 at Walmart- cheap.
This is a pic of mine after 1 year from the first replacement of the clutch reservoir contents and the 6th. In that case after 8 changes the fluid looked identical to what was in the new container. 30 pumps per change. 240 pumps! Good leg exercise! Only used it for 6 years in my C6 and 3 1/2 years in my 2014-not clutch issues.
If interested this is a 5 page PDF with pics and text: http://netwelding.com/Clutch_Fluid.pdf
Clutch Fluid After 1st and 6th Change Using a Simple Replace and Pump Proceedure
Last edited by JerryU; 04-14-2017 at 11:57 PM.
#17
I buy Pentosin Super DOT4 (made in Germany) on Amazon in a metal can. Label says it can be stored indefinitely in the original container.
The clutch reservoir itself is a plastic container, with a cap that is not very tightly sealed, so it's gotta be absorbing moisture in the car. After doing it "properly" to use your term, renewing it one bowl at a time once or twice a month keeps it cleaner than your method in perpetuity.
Actually, it was Ranger his own self who told me that.
The clutch reservoir itself is a plastic container, with a cap that is not very tightly sealed, so it's gotta be absorbing moisture in the car. After doing it "properly" to use your term, renewing it one bowl at a time once or twice a month keeps it cleaner than your method in perpetuity.
Actually, it was Ranger his own self who told me that.
Last edited by Foosh; 04-15-2017 at 12:28 AM.
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Yaupon (04-15-2017)
#18
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
Member Since: Sep 2007
Location: NE South Carolina
Posts: 29,487
Received 9,619 Likes
on
6,625 Posts
I buy Pentosin Super DOT4 (made in Germany) on Amazon in a metal can. Label says it can be stored indefinitely in the original container.
The clutch reservoir itself is a plastic container, with a cap that is not very tightly sealed, so it's gotta be absorbing moisture in the car. After doing it "properly" to use your term, renewing it one bowl at a time once or twice a month keeps it cleaner than your method in perpetuity.
Actually, it was Ranger his own self who told me that.
The clutch reservoir itself is a plastic container, with a cap that is not very tightly sealed, so it's gotta be absorbing moisture in the car. After doing it "properly" to use your term, renewing it one bowl at a time once or twice a month keeps it cleaner than your method in perpetuity.
Actually, it was Ranger his own self who told me that.
We also found packing welding wire in a plastic bag was worse than not relative to causing rust! For 140,000 psi yield strength welding wire (for HY-140 used on some mini subs etc) it was packed in metal cans.
Last edited by JerryU; 04-15-2017 at 12:51 AM.
#19
Le Mans Master
I'll add....
1) Check for hardness/ or replace...rear sway bar bushings.
2) Change the Power Streeting fluid...turkey baster technique is okay to use.
PS I have found over time the heat from the exhaust mufflers harden this bushings and additionally the inner circle (so to say) ovals from use.
Enjoy your Vette
1) Check for hardness/ or replace...rear sway bar bushings.
2) Change the Power Streeting fluid...turkey baster technique is okay to use.
PS I have found over time the heat from the exhaust mufflers harden this bushings and additionally the inner circle (so to say) ovals from use.
Enjoy your Vette
Last edited by Kenny94945; 07-20-2018 at 09:34 AM.
#20
Burning Brakes
I had mine changed yesterday at my dealer. $240 as it was 2 hours labor. Had to lower exhaust to get at bleed valve so they say. I only did it because when I did Tail Of The Dragon a while back I had an issue when the clutch pedal began to only partially come up from being depressed so I suspected some over heating or some sort of break down of the fluid. Anyway I felt better that I had it done though maybe not necessary.
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Pineapple (07-20-2018)