[Z06] 618 RWHP LS7 Dyno testing Sat.
#1
618 RWHP LS7 Dyno testing Sat.
Well the car previously made 608rwhp but I tested a Kooks 3" axle back and Haltech CAI today.
BEI 438ci LS7 Wet Sump
4.125 Bore 4.100 stroke
Sleeved L33 block
13.7:1 compression
Ported BEI LS7 heads
Ported BEI MSD intake
BEI Custom cam with only 12* overlap-mild driver cruises great at 1600rpm in 6th. I routinely shift every gear at 2k rpm for normal driving.
Bushed rocker trunion upgrade
3/8 pushrods
BEI dual springs with ti retainers
Delwest TI intake valves and hollow steam exhaust.
2" Kooks and Kooks 3" x-pipe
Kooks 3" axle back
E85 or walk home.
Going from the stock Ti exhaust with bypass mod to the Kooks 3" axle back netted 0 hp. Which I had suspensions that it would be a net zero gain. More surprisingly though it is much quieter the Ti exhaust. BTW I have a modded Ti exhaust for sale haha.
The Haltech CAI picked up 10hp over the C5 style Airraid intake.
BEI 438ci LS7 Wet Sump
4.125 Bore 4.100 stroke
Sleeved L33 block
13.7:1 compression
Ported BEI LS7 heads
Ported BEI MSD intake
BEI Custom cam with only 12* overlap-mild driver cruises great at 1600rpm in 6th. I routinely shift every gear at 2k rpm for normal driving.
Bushed rocker trunion upgrade
3/8 pushrods
BEI dual springs with ti retainers
Delwest TI intake valves and hollow steam exhaust.
2" Kooks and Kooks 3" x-pipe
Kooks 3" axle back
E85 or walk home.
Going from the stock Ti exhaust with bypass mod to the Kooks 3" axle back netted 0 hp. Which I had suspensions that it would be a net zero gain. More surprisingly though it is much quieter the Ti exhaust. BTW I have a modded Ti exhaust for sale haha.
The Haltech CAI picked up 10hp over the C5 style Airraid intake.
#3
Well the car previously made 608rwhp but I tested a Kooks 3" axle back and Haltech CAI today.
BEI 438ci LS7 Wet Sump
4.125 Bore 4.100 stroke
Sleeved L33 block
13.7:1 compression
Ported BEI LS7 heads
Ported BEI MSD intake
BEI Custom cam with only 12* overlap-mild driver cruises great at 1600rpm in 6th. I routinely shift every gear at 2k rpm for normal driving.
Bushed rocker trunion upgrade
3/8 pushrods
BEI dual springs with ti retainers
Delwest TI intake valves and hollow steam exhaust.
2" Kooks and Kooks 3" x-pipe
Kooks 3" axle back
E85 or walk home.
Going from the stock Ti exhaust with bypass mod to the Kooks 3" axle back netted 0 hp. Which I had suspensions that it would be a net zero gain. More surprisingly though it is much quieter the Ti exhaust. BTW I have a modded Ti exhaust for sale haha.
The Haltech CAI picked up 10hp over the C5 style Airraid intake.
BEI 438ci LS7 Wet Sump
4.125 Bore 4.100 stroke
Sleeved L33 block
13.7:1 compression
Ported BEI LS7 heads
Ported BEI MSD intake
BEI Custom cam with only 12* overlap-mild driver cruises great at 1600rpm in 6th. I routinely shift every gear at 2k rpm for normal driving.
Bushed rocker trunion upgrade
3/8 pushrods
BEI dual springs with ti retainers
Delwest TI intake valves and hollow steam exhaust.
2" Kooks and Kooks 3" x-pipe
Kooks 3" axle back
E85 or walk home.
Going from the stock Ti exhaust with bypass mod to the Kooks 3" axle back netted 0 hp. Which I had suspensions that it would be a net zero gain. More surprisingly though it is much quieter the Ti exhaust. BTW I have a modded Ti exhaust for sale haha.
The Haltech CAI picked up 10hp over the C5 style Airraid intake.
I hate to be that guy, but what does an engine build like this run?
#7
Pro
I am right there with you, $20k and counting but at least I see the light at the end of the tunnel. New Dewitts/Spal fan shroud being installed and additional tuning.
My tuner thought I was leaving at least 20rwhp on the table with the stock TI (with bypass mod). Guess not. A similar setup without the extra cubes and compression, but with a more cam timing (18 degrees overlap) and FAST102, (I just couldn't cut into the firewall). My car dyno 595rwhp 555ft/lbs
My tuner thought I was leaving at least 20rwhp on the table with the stock TI (with bypass mod). Guess not. A similar setup without the extra cubes and compression, but with a more cam timing (18 degrees overlap) and FAST102, (I just couldn't cut into the firewall). My car dyno 595rwhp 555ft/lbs
#10
Wow so you bolt on a AA kit don't have to buy a fuel system or any supporting mods LOL. Never seen a box stock C5Z with a bolt on blower kit make that. Man some people make me laugh. Also the added 100lbs that I don't have for the power adder is great. Doing highway pulls against a C5Z with a tvs2300 the other day and the weight difference and heat soak with any power adder was apparent. I could flat run him down from 100-150 with ease, it didn't matter if he got the jump I drove right around him every time. His made 685rwhp BTW. My other friend has a C5Z with a A&A kit at 599rwhp with cam and headers, and I really put it to that car.
The following users liked this post:
Gxpz06 (05-02-2017)
#11
Race Director
Wow so you bolt on a AA kit don't have to buy a fuel system or any supporting mods LOL. Never seen a box stock C5Z with a bolt on blower kit make that. Man some people make me laugh. Also the added 100lbs that I don't have for the power adder is great. Doing highway pulls against a C5Z with a tvs2300 the other day and the weight difference and heat soak with any power adder was apparent. I could flat run him down from 100-150 with ease, it didn't matter if he got the jump I drove right around him every time. His made 685rwhp BTW. My other friend has a C5Z with a A&A kit at 599rwhp with cam and headers, and I really put it to that car.
#13
Race Director
#14
Oh my gosh I give up. You do realize I built and tune the fastest LS car on the planet right???? 3.94@186. I know my LS junk.
Last edited by hellbents-10; 04-30-2017 at 12:48 PM.
#15
A stock LS6 bottom end isnt going to hold that much power long and yes, a N/A car making 600whp will run down a F/I car making 68x whp, easily. F/I cars need more power to run the same numbers as a N/A car.
I was in the same boat, SC the LS6 or build a big N/A motor. I did option number 2 and yes, its about 20K after everything is said and done. A S/C car will cost you 5-8K for the blower then another 15-2500 for install plus supporting mods, clutch and fuel for one. you're close to 10K at that point and if you push it past 620-650 whp, you'll be buying a new BE soon which is another 3-5K then after install of new motor, what have you really saved?
I was in the same boat, SC the LS6 or build a big N/A motor. I did option number 2 and yes, its about 20K after everything is said and done. A S/C car will cost you 5-8K for the blower then another 15-2500 for install plus supporting mods, clutch and fuel for one. you're close to 10K at that point and if you push it past 620-650 whp, you'll be buying a new BE soon which is another 3-5K then after install of new motor, what have you really saved?
Last edited by Millenium Z06; 04-30-2017 at 01:15 PM.
#16
Race Director
A stock LS6 bottom end isnt going to hold that much power long and yes, a N/A car making 600whp will run down a F/I car making 68x whp, easily. F/I cars need more power to run the same numbers as a N/A car.
I was in the same boat, SC the LS6 or build a big N/A motor. I did option number 2 and yes, its about 20K after everything is said and done. A S/C car will cost you 5-8K for the blower then another 15-2500 for install plus supporting mods, clutch and fuel for one. you're close to 10K at that point and if you push it past 620-650 whp, you'll be buying a new BE soon which is another 3-5K then after install of new motor, what have you really saved?
I was in the same boat, SC the LS6 or build a big N/A motor. I did option number 2 and yes, its about 20K after everything is said and done. A S/C car will cost you 5-8K for the blower then another 15-2500 for install plus supporting mods, clutch and fuel for one. you're close to 10K at that point and if you push it past 620-650 whp, you'll be buying a new BE soon which is another 3-5K then after install of new motor, what have you really saved?
All of the supporting mods would be needed to keep anything with that much HP from grenading, whether FI, or NA. And, so you're (OP) the ultimate LS dude, grats! Never answered my question if that 685RW was a stock block.
#17
By contrast, A SC install would need a clutch so you'd have to pay labor.
You'd need a fuel system upgrade, boost a pump at a minimum then the cost of the SC and install. Then once it blew up, you'd be in a motor build. So you dont actually save that much if any in the long term.
I'd guess the 685 whp isn't a SBE unless it was an LS2 or 3
#18
685rwhp is on stock long block with cam and valve train. It should last a very long time if it never has a fuel system hiccup. Car has about 90k miles on it now.
Dave's GTO went 5 seasons at 825rwhp on his turbo LS2 way back in the day. Car made a ton of 9 second passes. Finally let loose when he had 4 people in it on the street and turned boost up to 23 from the 19 he was running. That car had about 50k miles. E85 or race gas and a conservative tune and they will live. Pump gas is the killer of most of these engines.
Dave's GTO went 5 seasons at 825rwhp on his turbo LS2 way back in the day. Car made a ton of 9 second passes. Finally let loose when he had 4 people in it on the street and turned boost up to 23 from the 19 he was running. That car had about 50k miles. E85 or race gas and a conservative tune and they will live. Pump gas is the killer of most of these engines.
#19
Le Mans Master
Well the car previously made 608rwhp but I tested a Kooks 3" axle back and Haltech CAI today.
BEI 438ci LS7 Wet Sump
4.125 Bore 4.100 stroke
Sleeved L33 block
13.7:1 compression
Ported BEI LS7 heads
Ported BEI MSD intake
BEI Custom cam with only 12* overlap-mild driver cruises great at 1600rpm in 6th. I routinely shift every gear at 2k rpm for normal driving.
Bushed rocker trunion upgrade
3/8 pushrods
BEI dual springs with ti retainers
Delwest TI intake valves and hollow steam exhaust.
2" Kooks and Kooks 3" x-pipe
Kooks 3" axle back
E85 or walk home.
Going from the stock Ti exhaust with bypass mod to the Kooks 3" axle back netted 0 hp. Which I had suspensions that it would be a net zero gain. More surprisingly though it is much quieter the Ti exhaust. BTW I have a modded Ti exhaust for sale haha.
The Haltech CAI picked up 10hp over the C5 style Airraid intake.
BEI 438ci LS7 Wet Sump
4.125 Bore 4.100 stroke
Sleeved L33 block
13.7:1 compression
Ported BEI LS7 heads
Ported BEI MSD intake
BEI Custom cam with only 12* overlap-mild driver cruises great at 1600rpm in 6th. I routinely shift every gear at 2k rpm for normal driving.
Bushed rocker trunion upgrade
3/8 pushrods
BEI dual springs with ti retainers
Delwest TI intake valves and hollow steam exhaust.
2" Kooks and Kooks 3" x-pipe
Kooks 3" axle back
E85 or walk home.
Going from the stock Ti exhaust with bypass mod to the Kooks 3" axle back netted 0 hp. Which I had suspensions that it would be a net zero gain. More surprisingly though it is much quieter the Ti exhaust. BTW I have a modded Ti exhaust for sale haha.
The Haltech CAI picked up 10hp over the C5 style Airraid intake.
We had similar results with swapping out the Ti exhaust on a 388 build in the c5z.
#20
Race Director
Only thing you'd need for NA is a clutch and since the motor would be out already, all you have is the expense of the part. The fuel doesn't really need to be upgraded beyond a C6Z06 pump or equivalent and injectors
By contrast, A SC install would need a clutch so you'd have to pay labor.
You'd need a fuel system upgrade, boost a pump at a minimum then the cost of the SC and install. Then once it blew up, you'd be in a motor build. So you dont actually save that much if any in the long term.
I'd guess the 685 whp isn't a SBE unless it was an LS2 or 3
By contrast, A SC install would need a clutch so you'd have to pay labor.
You'd need a fuel system upgrade, boost a pump at a minimum then the cost of the SC and install. Then once it blew up, you'd be in a motor build. So you dont actually save that much if any in the long term.
I'd guess the 685 whp isn't a SBE unless it was an LS2 or 3
Last edited by zeevette; 05-01-2017 at 02:51 PM.