Richie333

Redoing my z06 engine since a piston broke and scored up the walls. my plans to resleeve the block with darton sleeves but just going to get it honed since the scoring isn't bad at all. Getting a nice set of forged pistons and up in the air on forged rods vs the stock ti rods. Keeping the stock crank
I'm going to be taking my old cam out and putting something a lot bigger in. Should I upgrade the stock rockets with the trunnion upgrade? And what's everybody's input on the stock ls7 lifters? Since the motor is apart I'm just trying to build it solid but not trying to throw money away on unessary parts!

CASEWORER

Keep your stock Ti Rods anything aftermarket will just be heavier and thus increase rotating mass resulting in less HP. Just have stock rods reworked and replace rod bolts with ARP rod bolts.

MTPZ06

I'd resleeve anyways, as OE sleeves are on the fragile side. Forged pistons, and I concur on keeping stock Ti rods. Stock rockers work great, but bind at about .660 lift, so then you'd want to rebuild the trunions. I recommend CHE if you rebuild them, but stay away from Comp trunnions kits...plenty of proof on here that they are absolute ****, unless you like metal shavings in your motor oil. Whatever cam you decide on, get a recommendation on lifters. Stock are fine for most, but it sounds like you're going large on the cam.

Richie333

By reworked you do mean replacing the bushing on the small side correct? Also is katech the only one who does that?

Richie333

how do you feel on the DIY CHE kit with the snap in rings? Or do you think it's better to send them in and have them do them? There's also the straub kit I've heard some things about.
And as far as the cam I plan to run something like the Brian tooley stage 4 or black widow R

CASEWORER

Correct, I have not had to have this done but from the research I have done Katech and possibly Crower are the only places I know of. I would start with Katech and go from there.

MTPZ06

I like CHE because they use a more durable bronze manganese material for the bushings. I sent mine to them, prior to the release of their DIY kit. It's really preference at this point, but I'd be fine with either way.

Unreal

No reason to touch the trunions though. The CHE or Straub kits are nice, but so are stock rockers and it saves you $200+

MyLS1Hauls

Most built N/A LS7 engines I see, end up producing less power than a stock short block, due to heavier rods, heavier pistons, and rings with increased drag. Select your parts carefully...

Richie333

do you know a good piston set up and rod set up? I forsure want to change the pistons out. Still debating on rods

Unreal

Any of the light weight pistons made for stock rods. Pin location is slightly different.

Diamond, wiesco, racetec, ross all make factory style pistons.

cv67

Any competent machine shop can rework rods, hang pistons on them etc

how many miles are on it, did you ck the taper of the cyl or just bore at the top

Unreal

Not even closely true.

The process to rebush a Ti rod is a very specialized process and not something joe schmoe can do.

Michael_D

Make sure you select your piston before you have the rods re-bushed. Some pistons run a different sized pin. JE for example....

I'd keep the OE rods for anything under 800hp. I would be resistant to having anyone but Katech work them. Might as well have them balance the rotating assembly while they do the rods.

If the block is out, and it's not a major shipping problem to get the block to R.E.D., I would re-sleeve it verse only a hone (and I happen to own a CV-616 hone).

MyLS1Hauls

I used the Mahle 4032 alloy PowerPak pistons on my Ti rods, that had ARP bolts installed, and were resized. They only go up to 4.130 bore, and if you need more than a very light cleanup pass, they won't work. However, if you resleeve, then you can go back to a stock bore 4.125 piston, which is available. I know several others that have used these pistons as well, with great success. A lot of the other manufacturers make great pistons...but there is just no need for heavy 2618 alloy pistons with 2.0/2.0/3.0 ring packs, in an N/A LS7. 2618 pistons don't have to be heavy, but quite a few are. 4032 is more dimensionally stable, harder, more wear resistant, and can be fit tighter to the bore. 2618 shines when cylinder pressures are very high, when used with forced induction, or nitrous oxide. This isn't the only way to go, but I put a lot of time and research into piston selection...and in the end, I was happy with the results.

Richie333

what kind of power do you think the stock sleeves are good for if I did do a 4.130 hone so I would be .05 over the 4.125. I would order some custom pistons for that. I do have a budget to get it running again but if a sleeve is a big bonus or must I would just save a little more to do it. So around 800 is good for stock rods? That's what I been looking for. Another thing that stopped me from having Jason rework them was the cost was around the same for a nice set of Callie's H beam rods so wasn't sure to just get some forged ones for the same price.
As for the crank I am going to be getting all that re balanced.
I also just talked to Texas speed over the phone and they said $1850 to resleeve with darton sleeves or $2000 to get a 5.3 block from them that has darton sleeves and is bored to a 427. Sorry if all these questions have been asked over and over just can't seem to find the answers I'm looking for.
also next year I would like to put a procharger on the car so don't want to have to touch the motor again.

Unreal

A NA build and blower/forced induction build are going to be different. So you need to decide what your end goal is now unless you want to spend more later.

Michael_D

Call R.E.D. (race engine design). They may have a block ready to go, and just need yours as a core. ERL was also a good place to go, but they are not doing that anymore.

I have no idea what power the OE block is good for. All I do know, is that the liners are prone to cracking from detonation. And when you add boost or spray, or go crazy with SCR, detonation is more likely to occur. As you increase cylinder pressure, you margins decrease.

If you intend to boost or spray, just swallow the pill now, while the block is out of the car. You'll wish you had, because both are addicting, and you won't stop at 10 pounds, you'll keep going more..... I speak from experience.....

Richie333

i think you are correct, I think I'm just going to sleeve it cause I really do want to add boost later on down the road and don't want to worry about anything. So back on the rod topic with boost, still stock ti rods with upgraded rod bolts or steel?
A procharger was supposed to come already but since the car broke it's going to take a lot of the funds I had planned to use on that but still adding it in the future when I can

Michael_D

Depends on how far you are going to take this......... I wouldn't hesitate using the Ti rods up to 800hp. I'd go with some good forged rods over that. The crank is hell for stout. Probably 1000'ish.