[Z06] Want a streetable track tire...
05-04-2017, 05:02 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Want a streetable track tire...
Looking for a sticky tire, that corners and has solid straight line grip for stock wheel 18/19" fitment. This is 100% a street driven car, just want the max performance possible. If I had to bias the tire, it would be more to straight line traction than cornering, but I dont want to run a drag radial rear.
Don't care about wet weather, don't care about cold weather storage, and don't care about a 100ish tread wear rating. Really frustrated in my options, looking for suggestions and feedback.
Mich Cup 2... in 325/30/19 and 265/35/18. 1.4"height difference. Cons... undersized front by 10mm, most expensive, going to understeer a touch. Pros... Lightest of the options
Proxy R888R
345/30/19, 275/35/18. Pros... Likely the stickiest. Cons: Loud tread, heaviest combo. 1.55" height difference, is this too much???
Nitto NT01 325/30/19, 275/35/18. Pros: Factory fitment, Cheap. Cons: Very loud tread
Am I missing anything? I'm leaning towards the the Pilot Sport Cups but am I going to notice the undersized fronts?
Don't care about wet weather, don't care about cold weather storage, and don't care about a 100ish tread wear rating. Really frustrated in my options, looking for suggestions and feedback.
Mich Cup 2... in 325/30/19 and 265/35/18. 1.4"height difference. Cons... undersized front by 10mm, most expensive, going to understeer a touch. Pros... Lightest of the options
Proxy R888R
345/30/19, 275/35/18. Pros... Likely the stickiest. Cons: Loud tread, heaviest combo. 1.55" height difference, is this too much???
Nitto NT01 325/30/19, 275/35/18. Pros: Factory fitment, Cheap. Cons: Very loud tread
Am I missing anything? I'm leaning towards the the Pilot Sport Cups but am I going to notice the undersized fronts?
Last edited by atljar; 05-04-2017 at 05:07 PM.
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TWPVETT (05-09-2017)
05-04-2017, 06:25 PM
#2
Safety Car
I have Cup 2s and they do not hook in a straight line well, are very expensive, and don't last very long. They are a great tire if you want to AutoX or Road Race. Not so great for drag racing or general street driving (cost).
How much power does the car put down? All tires come with tradeoffs.
How much power does the car put down? All tires come with tradeoffs.
05-04-2017, 07:42 PM
#3
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
510 to 530rwhp depending on fuel Im using. Nothing crazy.
Not worried about mileage at all, I drive less than 1k miles a year. They will dry rot before wearing out
Not worried about mileage at all, I drive less than 1k miles a year. They will dry rot before wearing out
05-04-2017, 09:18 PM
#4
Drifting
Member Since: Nov 2011
Location: Chesterfield (St. Louis) MO
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I know that Nitto Invos come in the stock sizes, and have gotten some really good reviews. I have no experience with them (I have Pilot Super Sports), but just wanted to add that into the mix. Maybe someone who has experience with that tire can comment.
05-04-2017, 10:55 PM
#5
Team Owner
Invos are not even on same planet as the tires mentioned.
Out of those the R888s would be best bet.
Out of those the R888s would be best bet.
05-04-2017, 11:43 PM
#6
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
05-05-2017, 12:36 AM
#7
Melting Slicks
I would run the regular R888's not the R888R. MUCH better sizing available.
If you want to run that 345 rear you can run a 295 front and keep the aspect ratio close.
Or you can run the stock sizes and still have great traction. When you step to a much stickier tire its not really necessary to go to a 345 in the rear.
If you want to run that 345 rear you can run a 295 front and keep the aspect ratio close.
Or you can run the stock sizes and still have great traction. When you step to a much stickier tire its not really necessary to go to a 345 in the rear.
05-05-2017, 07:18 AM
#8
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I would run the regular R888's not the R888R. MUCH better sizing available.
If you want to run that 345 rear you can run a 295 front and keep the aspect ratio close.
Or you can run the stock sizes and still have great traction. When you step to a much stickier tire its not really necessary to go to a 345 in the rear.
If you want to run that 345 rear you can run a 295 front and keep the aspect ratio close.
Or you can run the stock sizes and still have great traction. When you step to a much stickier tire its not really necessary to go to a 345 in the rear.
Last edited by atljar; 05-05-2017 at 07:20 AM.
05-05-2017, 07:42 AM
#9
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jun 2005
Location: Rochester NY
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2018 C6 of Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '10, '17
I have run R888 and NT01. Both are great tires. Never tried the Cup2 but I have buddies at the track that use them. None hate them but none really like them. My car is primarily a road course/track car. 570/520. NT01, for me, are the best. Excellent grip, superb cornering, get up to to temp fast, good straightline and can take ALOT of heatcycles. I have taken them to the cords before. For me, they last longer than the R888, which gets greasy and doesn't seem to take as many heat cycles. They are supposedly the same compound, but I am not so sure. NT01 are nowhere near as loud as R888, which are like 4 sirens on your car. Also, when my NT01 get to about 2-3/32nds and are down to 1-2 grooves left they essentially become a racing slick and get even better. So as they wear you get more and more grip. Some guys even shave them directly to this level, but I don't as even new after their first heat cycle they stick like glue.
I have driven them in the rain to the track with no drama, and have also driven them on the track in wet/mist but not downpour conditions. I wouldn't drive them through standing water or heavy rain, especially when the grooves are worn down. But they will handle ok in a little bit of rain. I was literally just at Watkins Glen last weekend and it lightly rained the first day and I drove the track in them. Had to cut down speeds considerably but no major issues. Again, avoid standing water and heavy rain.
You should also get an alignment, which improves handling, grip and both straightline acceleration and corning. It will also ensure the tires wear more evenly. I run a pretty aggressive track alignment with alot of negative camber, a small amount of toe in on the rear and a little bit of toe out in the front. Front caster is around 8 degrees. For street I would keep toe neutral and maybe .5- 1 degree of negative camber in the front.
I have driven them in the rain to the track with no drama, and have also driven them on the track in wet/mist but not downpour conditions. I wouldn't drive them through standing water or heavy rain, especially when the grooves are worn down. But they will handle ok in a little bit of rain. I was literally just at Watkins Glen last weekend and it lightly rained the first day and I drove the track in them. Had to cut down speeds considerably but no major issues. Again, avoid standing water and heavy rain.
You should also get an alignment, which improves handling, grip and both straightline acceleration and corning. It will also ensure the tires wear more evenly. I run a pretty aggressive track alignment with alot of negative camber, a small amount of toe in on the rear and a little bit of toe out in the front. Front caster is around 8 degrees. For street I would keep toe neutral and maybe .5- 1 degree of negative camber in the front.
05-05-2017, 08:16 AM
#10
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I have run R888 and NT01. Both are great tires. Never tried the Cup2 but I have buddies at the track that use them. None hate them but none really like them. My car is primarily a road course/track car. 570/520. NT01, for me, are the best. Excellent grip, superb cornering, get up to to temp fast, good straightline and can take ALOT of heatcycles. I have taken them to the cords before. For me, they last longer than the R888, which gets greasy and doesn't seem to take as many heat cycles. They are supposedly the same compound, but I am not so sure. NT01 are nowhere near as loud as R888, which are like 4 sirens on your car. Also, when my NT01 get to about 2-3/32nds and are down to 1-2 grooves left they essentially become a racing slick and get even better. So as they wear you get more and more grip. Some guys even shave them directly to this level, but I don't as even new after their first heat cycle they stick like glue.
I have driven them in the rain to the track with no drama, and have also driven them on the track in wet/mist but not downpour conditions. I wouldn't drive them through standing water or heavy rain, especially when the grooves are worn down. But they will handle ok in a little bit of rain. I was literally just at Watkins Glen last weekend and it lightly rained the first day and I drove the track in them. Had to cut down speeds considerably but no major issues. Again, avoid standing water and heavy rain.
You should also get an alignment, which improves handling, grip and both straightline acceleration and corning. It will also ensure the tires wear more evenly. I run a pretty aggressive track alignment with alot of negative camber, a small amount of toe in on the rear and a little bit of toe out in the front. Front caster is around 8 degrees. For street I would keep toe neutral and maybe .5- 1 degree of negative camber in the front.
I have driven them in the rain to the track with no drama, and have also driven them on the track in wet/mist but not downpour conditions. I wouldn't drive them through standing water or heavy rain, especially when the grooves are worn down. But they will handle ok in a little bit of rain. I was literally just at Watkins Glen last weekend and it lightly rained the first day and I drove the track in them. Had to cut down speeds considerably but no major issues. Again, avoid standing water and heavy rain.
You should also get an alignment, which improves handling, grip and both straightline acceleration and corning. It will also ensure the tires wear more evenly. I run a pretty aggressive track alignment with alot of negative camber, a small amount of toe in on the rear and a little bit of toe out in the front. Front caster is around 8 degrees. For street I would keep toe neutral and maybe .5- 1 degree of negative camber in the front.
Alignment is setup really close to that right now, but of course I will double check it. Im at 7.8 or 7.9 caster, -1 camber on all four, and toed in just a touch, like 1/32"
05-05-2017, 08:30 AM
#11
I have run R888 and NT01. Both are great tires. Never tried the Cup2 but I have buddies at the track that use them. None hate them but none really like them. My car is primarily a road course/track car. 570/520. NT01, for me, are the best. Excellent grip, superb cornering, get up to to temp fast, good straightline and can take ALOT of heatcycles. I have taken them to the cords before. For me, they last longer than the R888, which gets greasy and doesn't seem to take as many heat cycles. They are supposedly the same compound, but I am not so sure. NT01 are nowhere near as loud as R888, which are like 4 sirens on your car. Also, when my NT01 get to about 2-3/32nds and are down to 1-2 grooves left they essentially become a racing slick and get even better. So as they wear you get more and more grip. Some guys even shave them directly to this level, but I don't as even new after their first heat cycle they stick like glue.
I have driven them in the rain to the track with no drama, and have also driven them on the track in wet/mist but not downpour conditions. I wouldn't drive them through standing water or heavy rain, especially when the grooves are worn down. But they will handle ok in a little bit of rain. I was literally just at Watkins Glen last weekend and it lightly rained the first day and I drove the track in them. Had to cut down speeds considerably but no major issues. Again, avoid standing water and heavy rain.
You should also get an alignment, which improves handling, grip and both straightline acceleration and corning. It will also ensure the tires wear more evenly. I run a pretty aggressive track alignment with alot of negative camber, a small amount of toe in on the rear and a little bit of toe out in the front. Front caster is around 8 degrees. For street I would keep toe neutral and maybe .5- 1 degree of negative camber in the front.
I have driven them in the rain to the track with no drama, and have also driven them on the track in wet/mist but not downpour conditions. I wouldn't drive them through standing water or heavy rain, especially when the grooves are worn down. But they will handle ok in a little bit of rain. I was literally just at Watkins Glen last weekend and it lightly rained the first day and I drove the track in them. Had to cut down speeds considerably but no major issues. Again, avoid standing water and heavy rain.
You should also get an alignment, which improves handling, grip and both straightline acceleration and corning. It will also ensure the tires wear more evenly. I run a pretty aggressive track alignment with alot of negative camber, a small amount of toe in on the rear and a little bit of toe out in the front. Front caster is around 8 degrees. For street I would keep toe neutral and maybe .5- 1 degree of negative camber in the front.
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Indepth (05-05-2017)
05-08-2017, 08:31 PM
#13
Drifting
I was running the NT05R on the rear of my 600whp H/C/I Z06 for the last 3 seasons. Having them so long, they've hardened a LOT and are much worse than they were, as you'd expect. I just picked up a set of the NT01s as my next rear tire (325/30/19) for my new set of wheels. I also now have a blower so the car will be in the mid 700's most likely. I'll post a review one I get some time on them. I did look at the R888 and the R888R now that the wider 19" is out.
Last edited by EnginerdVT; 05-08-2017 at 08:32 PM.
03-20-2018, 02:22 PM
#14
Racer
Thank you for the good feedback and suggestions. I really like the fact that the Nittos allow me to run the correct front/rear stagger
Alignment is setup really close to that right now, but of course I will double check it. Im at 7.8 or 7.9 caster, -1 camber on all four, and toed in just a touch, like 1/32"
Alignment is setup really close to that right now, but of course I will double check it. Im at 7.8 or 7.9 caster, -1 camber on all four, and toed in just a touch, like 1/32"
OP whatcha end up getting? How'd you like them?
I'm getting tired of spinning my MPSS and will be weighing R888R vs NT-01 very soon. Seems to be lots of reviews on R888 but not as much on the newer R888R. I don't think loud tread is much of an issue over my Borla ATAK. I'm also biased toward straight-line, but want something that corners as well or better than MPSS - which of course both of the above will do. I'll be sticking with stock sizes.
03-21-2018, 10:29 AM
#16
Racer
r888r user here in 345/30/19 and I have nothing but good things to say about them in my short time having them.... straight line traction is massively improved over the pilot sports they replaced on my 545/495 Z....it's street driven spiritedly so i can't speak on canyon carving, but I'm sure they'll do just fine since that's what they were made for.
03-21-2018, 03:32 PM
#18
Le Mans Master
Sub'n
03-21-2018, 05:06 PM
#19
I have a 2016 Z06 stock power, I too wanted to have one tire for street and track
in 2 yrs I went thru 2 sets of tires. Track time kicks street tires
so I bought "cheaper" Contennials street tires probably going to last 2-3 years on the street and a 18" track rims with 325/345 Hoosiers...which is unmatched on the track
in 2 yrs I went thru 2 sets of tires. Track time kicks street tires
so I bought "cheaper" Contennials street tires probably going to last 2-3 years on the street and a 18" track rims with 325/345 Hoosiers...which is unmatched on the track
03-21-2018, 09:32 PM
#20
Melting Slicks
R888Rs on STOCK sizes. Do research. 