Kelley

OK, tonight I started pulling the under hood blower motor assembly out of my '66 small block coupe to make way for "The Improvement". For 51 years the cement used to seal the darn thing to the firewall has worked really well. Anyone have a suggestion on how to dislodge it? I'm trying to work my way around the edge with two 15 in 1 tools and a small hammer but it's tucked up between the fender, the frame, the hood catch and no telling what else I can't see down there so I can only get to a portion of the circumference. I've removed 7 retainer nuts which is more than I see identified in the AIM and it ain't cooperating.

suggestions welcome

NightshiftHD

Kelley, be gentle with the cover. There will be a black foam weatherstrip between the firewall and the outer box cover. The foam is usually glued in place (on both sides) with contact cement. Then it's been "heated" for 50+ years.

I got mine off quite easily by drizzling lacquer thinner around the circumference of the cover, let it sit a few minutes, then drizzle some more until you can take a 1" putty knife and twist it between the cover and firewall to slowly separate the two. Don't worry about the lacquer thinner melting the foam weatherstrip ... yours will not be re-usable anyway, and all the suppliers sell these in a kit. Bill

Kelley

excellent suggestion! I'll also get a small plastic bottle with a long spout to get in the tight places. Thank you and hold on for the next question

buns

Lots of info on the install here:


https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...n-install.html


And here:


http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/vem...-cool-running/

Kelley

First success:

I was a little nervous about lacquer thinner but Goo Gone worked perfectly to loosen the cement and the blower motor assembly came off quite easily. Thank you again for the suggestion NightshiftHD and to buns for the link to a great reference.

Second question:

How in the world do you wiggle the heater box out from under the dash? I have it loose but I've now manage to get it wedged in between the firewall, the dash brace and the passenger side of the car. Maybe I'm just too tired to continue messing with it. After all, this isn't as much fun as it was when I was 40. Heck, it's not as much fun as when I was 50. But hey, how many 6'5" 270# 68 year olds are crawling under the dash of a C2 Corvette and wrestling with this stuff. I allowed two months for the A/C plus a radio install (secret radio behind the seat to not spoil the "radio delete" - I know, I know - look) so I can still tell myself that I'm on schedule.

Tooth Doctor

It's been a couple years since I did my Vintage Air install be I remember that to install the VA unit it had to "rotated" into position, it would not fit by lifting it straight up from the floor. I suspect that to remove the old unit it will also have to be rotated to come out. Try turning it so that the heater hose nipples are facing down as you come out.

NightshiftHD

Kelley, its a tight fit but it does come out. You do have your glove box removed right? If not, do that first ... really helps to see where the heater box is getting hung up. Bill

Frankie the Fink

You aren't even close to the fun part yet; wait until you install the evaporater. Just an FYI, pay close attention to how you install the drier for the A/C. Its directional and the Vintage Air directions aren't real clear in that area. Decide early on if you have to remove the radiator core "X" brace. Some have, I'd try to keep it if you can...

Kelley

My son is coming over tonight to wiggle his 32 year old but underneath the dash and wrestle with it for a while. Got a feeling that's all I need. Hopefully the right "rotation" and a little muscle will get it out.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions. It ain't over till the sweaty old guy is cooled down on a hot summer day cruise

Kelley

Two questions tonight.

The first is a general mechanic question. How do you hold the water pump pulley while tightening the four bolts that hold it to the pump. I've tried wedging screwdrivers between two bolts while I tighten a third but so far I can't keep it stationary. By the way, how much torque is on those four small bolts.

Second question relates to the Vintage Air kit. I cannot find a mounting bracket for the compressor. I also don't see reference to one in the instructions or on any of the packing sheets. Is one supplied? if not, what, when and where do I get one for a '66 327/300.

KENS78SILVERANNIV

Like I've said a dozen times on the Forum. The Vintage Air installation is the single most frustrating, time consuming, and exasperating mod you can do on a C2. It is also the single most rewarding, worthwhile, comfortable and appreciated mod you will ever add on to these cars! No question! And... everytime... it hits 103 degrees outside... you will thank yourself for the BS and busted knuckles it took to install... and wonder how you ever got along without that 38 degree ice cold air blowing in your face. Really.

KENS78SILVERANNIV

It comes with the kit. And it is cut perfectly... Lines up on the money.

Tampa Jerry

Regarding the water pump, as I remember, there are four studs that go through the pulley to the pump. I install the studs, pulley and clutch and fan and put a lock washer and nut on each stud. I tighten the nuts down in a crisscross pattern while holding the clutch and fan with my other hand. I wear a good pair of leather work gloves. It does not take much torque on the nuts. As far as the A/C compressor brackets, they should have been included with the kit. You can post some pictures of your parts to see if you are missing something. If the brackets did not come with the kit, call Vintage Air and they will send out the parts. They have a pretty good customer service reputation. Jerry

Frankie the Fink

That's basically how I tighten the water pump up as well. I have big leather welder's gloves for holding the fan...

The brackets VA provides are pretty ugly, flat pieces of steel look a bit homemade and heavy... Can't say on a later midyear but on my '63 I ordered all of the factory A/C brackets and mounting hardware from Long Island Corvettes and it made a MUCH nicer appearing installation. I also ordered the harness from Lectric Limited that lets you move your alternator to the DS of the car without messing with the voltage regulator or horn relay... Well worth the $48 or so..

Wire the power for the A/C to the horn buss relay and NOT directly to the battery if you want your dash BATTERY gauge to read correctly. Mad Electric web site has more info on how the gauge measures the charging rate.

A local shop upgraded my factory original alternator internally to put out 70 amps and that works well...

Kelley

Thanks for the input, especially the wiring tip. My alternator is already on the drivers side but I like the suggestion of wiring the A/C to the horn buss relay. I should be able to figure that out.

My alternator is a 37 amp so I think I will have it upgraded to 70 amp

I talked with Vintage Air today and they are sending me the compressor mounting brackets. If they look crappy I'll buy stock brackets which I'm assuming will mount to the compressor supplied by VA

woodsdesign

I would love to see a pic of the VA wired to the horn buss relay. Mine is connected at the starter. My volt meter reads high when the AC is on.

NightshiftHD

Really not much to see ... just move the VA feed wire from your starter and re-connect on the horn relay screw. I assume you have it fused already? Bill

davekp78

Will the OEM wiring harness carry the increased load when the VA feed wire is connected to the horn relay?

woodsdesign

OK, stupid question time. Does it matter which connection on the horn relay?

Frankie the Fink

OEM wiring will handle the load...remember these cars HAD A/C as an option when new, using the existing wiring... I had the alternator upgraded for 70 amps but the car will most likely never see anything close....

There really isn't a problem as the horn relay is a major power take off point for the car and where the voltage regulator 'senses' the current draw and adjusts alternator output accordingly. The Lectric Limited alternator harness runs through the rectangular "pipe" on top of the radiator core for a very clean install.

Either connection at the horn relay will work...

Original alternator A/C brackets will work, but the original compressor brackets almost surely won't if you've chosen the smaller Sanden compressor...

Then if you really want to go for the 'cool' factor and have a '63 you get an original A/C car "wobble plate":

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Original...-/262108951315