Z07 worn brake message TSB
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Z07 worn brake message TSB
The DIC started displaying this message intermittently last week. I clear it and it comes back a day or two later.
I've seen multiple threads on it, likely a bad sensor.
Does anyone have a copy of the TSB or know the number?
I like to give my service department as much information as possible, usually speeds up the turnaround time.
I've seen multiple threads on it, likely a bad sensor.
Does anyone have a copy of the TSB or know the number?
I like to give my service department as much information as possible, usually speeds up the turnaround time.
#2
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You really don't need that. Either there is a problem with a connection where the sensor plugs into the car harness, a brake pad wear sensor has broken or one of the 4 pads with sensors has worn to the point the sensor wire has been broken by the pad. If the problem is due to a pad wearing down and breaking the sensor you may have a discussion about who pays for the new pads. If the car is extremely low mileage they may pick up the cost if there is 15K miles on the car the discussion becomes more interesting. I went through 2 sets of front pads and two sets of rear pads in less than 7K miles due to tracking my car.
Bill
Bill
#3
Instructor
You really don't need that. Either there is a problem with a connection where the sensor plugs into the car harness, a brake pad wear sensor has broken or one of the 4 pads with sensors has worn to the point the sensor wire has been broken by the pad. If the problem is due to a pad wearing down and breaking the sensor you may have a discussion about who pays for the new pads. If the car is extremely low mileage they may pick up the cost if there is 15K miles on the car the discussion becomes more interesting. I went through 2 sets of front pads and two sets of rear pads in less than 7K miles due to tracking my car.
Bill
Bill
#5
While its not impossible to chip a rotor, reasonable care will not let it happen. They are NOT that fragile.
#7
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The rotors aren't that fragile and there are ways to get the wheels off the car without damaging the rotors while not using the rotor protectors. The dealer mechanic that works on my car uses pipe insulation. It actually works better than the stock rotor protectors.
Bill
#8
Melting Slicks
Not a good attitude to have with any man made product. The dealer is the most likely place to know how to fix your car. No matter the horror stories you may hear about dealerships there are much worse ones that come out of independent shops.
The rotors aren't that fragile and there are ways to get the wheels off the car without damaging the rotors while not using the rotor protectors. The dealer mechanic that works on my car uses pipe insulation. It actually works better than the stock rotor protectors.
Bill
The rotors aren't that fragile and there are ways to get the wheels off the car without damaging the rotors while not using the rotor protectors. The dealer mechanic that works on my car uses pipe insulation. It actually works better than the stock rotor protectors.
Bill
Last edited by TRANS DAMM; 09-05-2017 at 09:16 AM.
#9
Leeds.io
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St. Jude Donor '14-'15-'16
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Trans Damm....drive up to Arroway chevy in Mt Kisco. They replaced my BSM and it fixed the issue with my Z07. The car had 41k miles and they did it under warranty.
Best,
Gene
Best,
Gene
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TRANS DAMM (07-04-2017)
#10
Former Vendor
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No TSB but if a dealer that services Z07 on the regular will take care of you quickly under warranty. Chances are, you will not be the first with this problem.
Took mine in and they knew exactly what was wrong. Ordered the parts immediately and got it all taken care of.
Took mine in and they knew exactly what was wrong. Ordered the parts immediately and got it all taken care of.
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TRANS DAMM (07-04-2017)
#11
Advanced
I believe there is a bulletin for this issue. I remember seeing it on the forum but now I can't find it. My car had the same issue at around 6k miles. Took it in and got new pads for both sides under warranty.
The problem is a faulty sensor and because the sensor is in the pad, the only way to fix it is new pads.
The problem is a faulty sensor and because the sensor is in the pad, the only way to fix it is new pads.
Last edited by oshvette; 07-08-2017 at 12:20 AM.
#12
Instructor
Same experience as others...my message showed up at 6k miles with very little wear on the pads. The service tech suggested I run a bit longer, knowing I was going to track it and after 3 track days the fronts were replaced under warranty. If you don't trust your dealer, find another. There are plenty of good mechanics if you search around.
#13
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
I found this item today. The solution is to reprogram the electronic brake control module. What do you want to bet, the program just turns off the warning message in the DIC?
#17267: Service Update - Brake Wear Indicator Not Functioning Properly - (Jun 30, 2017)
Subject: 17267 — Brake Wear Indicator Not Functioning Properly
Models: 2016–2017 Chevrolet Corvette
Equipped with Performance Suspension System (RPO FE6) and Ceramic Brake Rotors (RPO J57)
#17267: Service Update - Brake Wear Indicator Not Functioning Properly - (Jun 30, 2017)
Subject: 17267 — Brake Wear Indicator Not Functioning Properly
Models: 2016–2017 Chevrolet Corvette
Equipped with Performance Suspension System (RPO FE6) and Ceramic Brake Rotors (RPO J57)
#14
Leeds.io
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St. Jude Donor '14-'15-'16
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Bringing my car in for this tomorrow. The issue started acting up again after a few weeks. The service update above says 16-17 and I have a 15. I'll print it up and tape it to the dash.
Best,
Gene
Best,
Gene
#15
Drifting
I am not a dealer person per say, I have my own repair shop. The problem with my car was the front pad sensor wiring in either the left or right side. I just pulled the wheels and connected the wires together with T-taps just prior to the connector on the chassis. The system sends out a wire that goes through all 4 brake pad sensors and returns to the module it just uses Resistance to determine if there is a problem. it cannot give you a trouble code that will identify which pad sensor is causing the problem. I had a ton of brake pad left on all 4 wheels. I also didn't want to spend $700.00 on a set of front pads I didn't need. If you have warranty and want to use the dealer I understand. Took me 30 minutes, problem solved, it easy to keep an eye on your brakes for wear.
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phantasms (08-09-2017)
#16
I am not a dealer person per say, I have my own repair shop. The problem with my car was the front pad sensor wiring in either the left or right side. I just pulled the wheels and connected the wires together with T-taps just prior to the connector on the chassis. The system sends out a wire that goes through all 4 brake pad sensors and returns to the module it just uses Resistance to determine if there is a problem. it cannot give you a trouble code that will identify which pad sensor is causing the problem. I had a ton of brake pad left on all 4 wheels. I also didn't want to spend $700.00 on a set of front pads I didn't need. If you have warranty and want to use the dealer I understand. Took me 30 minutes, problem solved, it easy to keep an eye on your brakes for wear.
#17
Drifting
Sorry I didn't take any pictures, but it is very simple to do.
I would like to add that I pulled all 4 wheels first and inspected the pad sensor wiring and connectors on all four corners to be sure of no obvious wiring damage or connector problems. Being that my research had showed that most of these problems are being solved with new front brake pads/sensors. I thought I would just bypass the front brake pad sensors and see if the light went away and it did.
Just pull each front wheel off and follow the wiring from the brake pad sensor over to where it goes into the connector at the frame rail. Be sure you don't get the abs wiring and connector instead. I used T Taps into each wire and jumpered them together with a jumper wire with 2 male connectors on each end. You could use a scotch lock or any method to connect the 2 wires together on the sensor side of the connector and not the wiring harness side of the connector, you don't want to pierce the factory harness side in my opinion. One day down the road I am sure we will both have to replace the front pads and sensors if we keep the car long enough and this connector will be thrown away with the old sensor.
All we are doing here is taking the front pad sensors out of the loop.
I would like to add that I pulled all 4 wheels first and inspected the pad sensor wiring and connectors on all four corners to be sure of no obvious wiring damage or connector problems. Being that my research had showed that most of these problems are being solved with new front brake pads/sensors. I thought I would just bypass the front brake pad sensors and see if the light went away and it did.
Just pull each front wheel off and follow the wiring from the brake pad sensor over to where it goes into the connector at the frame rail. Be sure you don't get the abs wiring and connector instead. I used T Taps into each wire and jumpered them together with a jumper wire with 2 male connectors on each end. You could use a scotch lock or any method to connect the 2 wires together on the sensor side of the connector and not the wiring harness side of the connector, you don't want to pierce the factory harness side in my opinion. One day down the road I am sure we will both have to replace the front pads and sensors if we keep the car long enough and this connector will be thrown away with the old sensor.
All we are doing here is taking the front pad sensors out of the loop.
#18
Burning Brakes
Prob the sensors. I'm still waiting on the parts to come in. Supposedly, according to my dealer...........Mac Haik Chevy......GM has the parts on back order so. I've had that light on for about 3 months now. Still waiting on parts to come in.
#19
Race Director
It could be some other problem, but it's probably about 99% that the brake wear sensor that clips into the pad wore through and opened the circuit turning on the alert in the DIC.
You can see the wear sensors in the pictures below. When the pad wears down so it's level with the sensor, the rotor begins to wear down the sensor along with the pad. When they get worn down enough, the wire in the sensor gets cut through. When the wire is cut and the circuit opens, you get the warning alert in the DIC.
Below you can see an unused front pad along with the unused sensor:
And below you can see a well worn pad and you can see that the sensor has worn down, exposing and cutting through the wire:
You can only get a new sensor with a new set of pads - they don't sell them separately and AFAIK there's no GM part# for them so you can't order just the sensor.
However, as has been mentioned, if you keep a close eye on your pads, you can bypass the part that clips into the pad's backing plate. I just snip the wire right above that part, splice the wires together, and tie-wrap the wire to something back behind the rotor. That way I never have to put up with that alert message in the DIC.
You can see the wear sensors in the pictures below. When the pad wears down so it's level with the sensor, the rotor begins to wear down the sensor along with the pad. When they get worn down enough, the wire in the sensor gets cut through. When the wire is cut and the circuit opens, you get the warning alert in the DIC.
Below you can see an unused front pad along with the unused sensor:
And below you can see a well worn pad and you can see that the sensor has worn down, exposing and cutting through the wire:
You can only get a new sensor with a new set of pads - they don't sell them separately and AFAIK there's no GM part# for them so you can't order just the sensor.
However, as has been mentioned, if you keep a close eye on your pads, you can bypass the part that clips into the pad's backing plate. I just snip the wire right above that part, splice the wires together, and tie-wrap the wire to something back behind the rotor. That way I never have to put up with that alert message in the DIC.
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#20
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It could be some other problem, but it's probably about 99% that the brake wear sensor that clips into the pad wore through and opened the circuit turning on the alert in the DIC.
You can see the wear sensors in the pictures below. When the pad wears down so it's level with the sensor, the rotor begins to wear down the sensor along with the pad. When they get worn down enough, the wire in the sensor gets cut through. When the wire is cut and the circuit opens, you get the warning alert in the DIC.
Below you can see an unused front pad along with the unused sensor:
And below you can see a well worn pad and you can see that the sensor has worn down, exposing and cutting through the wire:
You can only get a new sensor with a new set of pads - they don't sell them separately and AFAIK there's no GM part# for them so you can't order just the sensor.
However, as has been mentioned, if you keep a close eye on your pads, you can bypass the part that clips into the pad's backing plate. I just snip the wire right above that part, splice the wires together, and tie-wrap the wire to something back behind the rotor. That way I never have to put up with that alert message in the DIC.
You can see the wear sensors in the pictures below. When the pad wears down so it's level with the sensor, the rotor begins to wear down the sensor along with the pad. When they get worn down enough, the wire in the sensor gets cut through. When the wire is cut and the circuit opens, you get the warning alert in the DIC.
Below you can see an unused front pad along with the unused sensor:
And below you can see a well worn pad and you can see that the sensor has worn down, exposing and cutting through the wire:
You can only get a new sensor with a new set of pads - they don't sell them separately and AFAIK there's no GM part# for them so you can't order just the sensor.
However, as has been mentioned, if you keep a close eye on your pads, you can bypass the part that clips into the pad's backing plate. I just snip the wire right above that part, splice the wires together, and tie-wrap the wire to something back behind the rotor. That way I never have to put up with that alert message in the DIC.
I wouldn't recommend that non track drivers do what you do. You keep a close eye on the thickness of your pads before and during an event so know when they need to be replaced. Before I switched to the AP Racing Brake kit I had the warning come on while I was at a Watkins Glen track event. I knew the pads were getting thin so had spares with me. When I got the warning all 4 of the sensors were broken and the pads were very thin. The sensors provided an appropriate warning.
For street driven cars it is rare for the sensor to break when the pad isn't worn. Removing the sensors from the pads or shorting the wires together eliminates factual warnings as well as false positives. It is far cheaper to find out the sensor was wrong Vs the finding out you ruined a $1300 or $1800 rotor.
Bill
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