GroundFlyer

Hi all! I'm in a bind and live in the boonies of upstate NY, near the Canadian border. Nobody that I know is into Vettes up here. I have a 2001 Black and Tan vert w/62000. I don't know if previous owner changed plugs so I figured after 16 yrs, why not. I can't get a grip on the plug wire because of what looks like a heat shield (tube) around the plug boot. Does that have to come off first or does it stay. The exposed 1/2 " of plug boot isn't enough to grab. I tried searches and came up empty. I guess it's a foregone conclusion that the wires are going to get damaged when removed. Any help would be appreciated.

oharal

The little tube comes with the plug wire. The wire should just pull off though. It can be tough to get them off especially when you're on the driver side and the AIR tube is in your way. I have done it a few times and even with my lousy grip they eventually come off. Just pull hard. If you use a tool, you'll probably tear the boot.

foggy

Many times they break at the plug side.. IT's not like the factory put dielectric grease
on them !!
You SHOULD !!
So grab some wires TOO !!
They are many years old

dbgoodwin

Go to Autozone.
Ask for plug wire pliers/pullers
problem solved.

runner140*

On the internet, go to Harbor Freight and order the 12" needle nose pliers. Its under $10.00.
Be prepared to purchase a new set of wires. GMPP are wires of choice.

Supercharged111

I got the cheap plug boot puller and it sucks. Pony up for the good one. Twisting back and forth will help, but know that the wire inside won't twist with. You will destroy a couple wires as others have indicated. I went with the GMPP wires myself.

GroundFlyer

All good advice, thanks. Will order iridium plugs and GMPP reds. Frank

My Vette Life

kalayaan12

The whole process is a genuine PIA pretty much...

I replaced my original plugs and wires that had been on for some 14 years and went with NGK Iridium's and red GM wires - it felt (to me) like a huge improvement overall.

Somehow I thought it would be easier the second time around when I did it again after the new set of plugs and wires had been on for only 5 years. It was still a struggle... I should've used dielectric grease as others have indicated, lesson learned!

The driver side is more challenging than the passenger side due to the AIR plumbing and power brake unit constantly being in the way. You can un-clamp the AIR tubing and vacuum line to the brake booster and move things around in order to give you some more room if you need it. Same with the alternator (it's just two bolts) to get to the #1 cylinder better, but I was putting headers on at the time and can't remember if this was really does much for just the spark plug change.

The metal canister (heat shield) doesn't stay on the cylinder head, it should come off with the spark plug wire. Don't try to pull by just the wire itself - but since its probably time for new wires anyway, it probably won't hurt order new ones in advance and have them ready (I got mine from Cultrag).

Do not over-torque the plugs! 11 lb. ft isn't much, and stripping the threads would really be a bummer!


Jeff

Vetteman Jack

I used a plug wire puller when I did the plugs in my '00 and it worked great. Did not damage on wire in the process.

GroundFlyer

Thanks for the advice. Video was great Nurburgring. Thanks to all. Will be ordering plugs and wires this week. ......:thumbs

My Vette Life

Thanks!

Ed_78Vette

I recently replaced all the plugs and wires. I know exactly the pain your in. The shield is in the way, but I was able to overcome one royal pain in the a@s removal. I used a piece of string, wrapped it around the boot end and patiently pulled as straight as possible for several minutes. At last, mission successful.