Lpga

Just replaced starter/solenoid and symptoms are the same as before. My first question is is there an inexpensive scan tool I can buy to try to get codes. When I turn key I get a click on the side where the starter is. Turn key again, get a click. Then the third time it starts. I have been told the only way to get a code is if it clicks, don't try to start it again. New battery was put in when starter was installed. Unfortunately, the whole exhaust system had to come out to get to the starter before. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

383vett

Sorry, I would just replace the whole starter assembly. The problem is in there somewhere and a new starter most likely will fix it.

Lpga

thanks for reply. was hoping to get codes first to see if it is starter. don't know what to do if I can't get any codes. By the way it's a 94 LT1 convertible. Forgot to put that in post.

jv9999

Codes won't tell you it's the starter or even that it might be the starter.

Cliff Harris

Read your error codes with a paperclip:

http://corvettephotographs.com/c4vettes/codes.htm
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1574918379

This is what they mean:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1576116036

bjankuski

Sounds like the starter to me, if the solenoid clicks on the starter it should crank. With a click and no crank the starter is bad.

There is no code that will list the starter as bad. (Reading codes will not pinpoint any problem with the cranking system)

WVZR-1

OP - so you did the contacts only in the starter? Was this a DIY? Did you use a new plunger? This was done on an OE starter? The "click - click" and then CRANK seems quite odd.

hcbph

Could be the starter, just as easily could be a corroded connection or bad battery.

I'd have the battery properly tested and go through all the connections (there aren't that many) between the battery & starter plus the block to battery ground cable first.

Could be something as simple as a loose or corroded connection. Who hasn't seen a no-start due to cable corrosion?

Lpga

starter/solenoid test good. Battery test good. Starter relay test good. No corroded wires, connections are good. Started it up several times last night and today turned over and fired right up. Wondering if there is a way to test ignition switch. Also, could it possibly be a bad key.?

Lpga

94 LT1 automatic new starter is correct for the car. Did screwdriver test on solenoid to starter they are both fine. Car started and ran fine bringing it home from series of tests. Had keys checked today, they are fine. Don't know if there is a test to check ignition switch without taking it out. Had ignition control module and ignition coil put in it May last year. Don't know if it's possible that theft deterrent system would cause symptoms. Turned key got one click, turned key off and back on got one click. Turned it third time and it started. Sat in garage for a full day in 95 degrees went to start it and again it took three times of turning key on and off then it started. Over night tried a dozen times it started right up each time. Totally baffled at this point.

billschroeder5842

Sorry, it still sounds like the battery to me.

When you said that "it tests good" does that mean you put it on a meter (like at a parts store) and tested it for Cold Cranking AMPS?

The clicking then starting leads me to (still) think that your battery does not have enough "umpf" or your connections are not....connected.

WVZR-1

****Maybe try neutral starts for a while! (moved to the top because it's the easiest and certainly the least expensive)


Put a "Start Enable Relay" in the car. It's inexpensive a relatively easy reach and diagnostics on from there.

Do you have the FSM? If you do check the "no or slow crank" right after starter/charge diagram, it's very simple and maybe it's just a bad "NEGATIVE CABLE". There's further diagnostics in the same chart for possible positive cable. It seems you're familiar with the under-car starter location etc.

SER requires just dropping the drivers hush panel. It's unlikely but it's certainly easy enough. Put new bolts in both of the battery cables and check condition of the bolts and the ring terminal covered by the boot.

Neutral safety switch isn't out of the question but that's a tougher replacement. Next time you get your intermittent clicks maybe you just shake/rattle the shifter a bit. Maybe try neutral starts for a while!

Lpga

Even though the battery was new two months ago it could be bad. Did not test for cold cranking. Will have that checked. The negative cable was a little loose but was tightened. Will let you know what cold crank test shows. Thanks

Mr. Peabody

Here is why people are still asking you about the battery and about having it load tested. With the C4 if the battery is at all weak or run down the starter simply will not engage it's not like in the old days where a worn down battery will turn it over slowly...... with electronics there is either enough juice or there isn't.

A battery tender will resolve this issue... if that is the issue.

pcolt94

You need to monitor the voltage at the solenoid to see if the voltage is marginal or a full 12 volts. You might need to have a DVM in the car and run a wire down to the solenoid so you can see the voltage at the time it acts up.

billschroeder5842