1988 a/c control
07-23-2017, 11:02 AM
#2
Le Mans Master
Possible bad solder connection on circuit board. Could also be a bad bulb connection or any type of connection in the area.
You just need to get in there, give it a good visual, solder up related connections and start from there.
You just need to get in there, give it a good visual, solder up related connections and start from there.
07-23-2017, 12:23 PM
#3
a light coat of dielectric grease on it. It was working, just flickering.
I'll try it out after i get a new oil pressure gauge installed.
Thanks for the come back.
07-23-2017, 02:18 PM
#4
Safety Car
Problems with another C68
You are experiencing issues with a AC controller where the LED's flicker on the face plate. I am assuming that you are describing the Electronic air conditioning control system, the famous "C68". There are cars with the old style that use sliders that you move to get the desired cooling or heating. What I am talking about below is the Electronic control system for your A/C, not the manual one.
I had the same issue on my '88. I used to bang on the bottom of the dash and they would come back on. I finally fixed it the "right" way. It is a fairly simple job to remove the unit and fix it properly.
A bad ground could be creating all your issues but that should be checked before starting any electrical repairs. I had recently changed my radio so I had fixed the bad connections and have full power everywhere now.
I called Bryan Thompson at BATEE.com and found a person who really understands the problems that can occur with the Digital dashboard or the A/C controls.
I bought all the parts from him and fixed my own unit. If you know a bit about electronics and can tell a cold solder joint from a good connection you too can fix your own parts, with a little help from BATEE.com. If you can't solder or just do not want to try to fix it yourself, Bryan would be happy to do it for you.
I found where the ribbon cable on the board (mounted in the C68's box) connects to the face plate was a source of trouble on my unit. The connector on the face plate had become warped and was unable to make good contact with all of the wires. That is where I suspect most of my problems were as it controls what you see on the face plate. I was surprised that the C68 from my car worked at all. After following the instructions that Bryan has on his web site I was able to get my unit working great. I also fixed the dashboard and made all the suggested "upgrades" to more modern components.
Today my dash and A/C controller are both working and nice and bright with no flicker.
By the way, you said that you used Die-electric grease. Are you aware that Die-electric grease is NOT conductive? Do not use it on electrical connections as anything but a protective barrier. I use it primarily on my new weatherstripping to keep it nice and pretty.
Good luck with the flicker and may it get resolved easily!
I had the same issue on my '88. I used to bang on the bottom of the dash and they would come back on. I finally fixed it the "right" way. It is a fairly simple job to remove the unit and fix it properly.
A bad ground could be creating all your issues but that should be checked before starting any electrical repairs. I had recently changed my radio so I had fixed the bad connections and have full power everywhere now.
I called Bryan Thompson at BATEE.com and found a person who really understands the problems that can occur with the Digital dashboard or the A/C controls.
I bought all the parts from him and fixed my own unit. If you know a bit about electronics and can tell a cold solder joint from a good connection you too can fix your own parts, with a little help from BATEE.com. If you can't solder or just do not want to try to fix it yourself, Bryan would be happy to do it for you.
I found where the ribbon cable on the board (mounted in the C68's box) connects to the face plate was a source of trouble on my unit. The connector on the face plate had become warped and was unable to make good contact with all of the wires. That is where I suspect most of my problems were as it controls what you see on the face plate. I was surprised that the C68 from my car worked at all. After following the instructions that Bryan has on his web site I was able to get my unit working great. I also fixed the dashboard and made all the suggested "upgrades" to more modern components.
Today my dash and A/C controller are both working and nice and bright with no flicker.
By the way, you said that you used Die-electric grease. Are you aware that Die-electric grease is NOT conductive? Do not use it on electrical connections as anything but a protective barrier. I use it primarily on my new weatherstripping to keep it nice and pretty.
Good luck with the flicker and may it get resolved easily!
07-23-2017, 03:36 PM
#5
You are experiencing issues with a AC controller where the LED's flicker on the face plate. I am assuming that you are describing the Electronic air conditioning control system, the famous "C68". There are cars with the old style that use sliders that you move to get the desired cooling or heating. What I am talking about below is the Electronic control system for your A/C, not the manual one.
I had the same issue on my '88. I used to bang on the bottom of the dash and they would come back on. I finally fixed it the "right" way. It is a fairly simple job to remove the unit and fix it properly.
A bad ground could be creating all your issues but that should be checked before starting any electrical repairs. I had recently changed my radio so I had fixed the bad connections and have full power everywhere now.
I called Bryan Thompson at BATEE.com and found a person who really understands the problems that can occur with the Digital dashboard or the A/C controls.
I bought all the parts from him and fixed my own unit. If you know a bit about electronics and can tell a cold solder joint from a good connection you too can fix your own parts, with a little help from BATEE.com. If you can't solder or just do not want to try to fix it yourself, Bryan would be happy to do it for you.
I found where the ribbon cable on the board (mounted in the C68's box) connects to the face plate was a source of trouble on my unit. The connector on the face plate had become warped and was unable to make good contact with all of the wires. That is where I suspect most of my problems were as it controls what you see on the face plate. I was surprised that the C68 from my car worked at all. After following the instructions that Bryan has on his web site I was able to get my unit working great. I also fixed the dashboard and made all the suggested "upgrades" to more modern components.
Today my dash and A/C controller are both working and nice and bright with no flicker.
By the way, you said that you used Die-electric grease. Are you aware that Die-electric grease is NOT conductive? Do not use it on electrical connections as anything but a protective barrier. I use it primarily on my new weatherstripping to keep it nice and pretty.
Good luck with the flicker and may it get resolved easily!
I had the same issue on my '88. I used to bang on the bottom of the dash and they would come back on. I finally fixed it the "right" way. It is a fairly simple job to remove the unit and fix it properly.
A bad ground could be creating all your issues but that should be checked before starting any electrical repairs. I had recently changed my radio so I had fixed the bad connections and have full power everywhere now.
I called Bryan Thompson at BATEE.com and found a person who really understands the problems that can occur with the Digital dashboard or the A/C controls.
I bought all the parts from him and fixed my own unit. If you know a bit about electronics and can tell a cold solder joint from a good connection you too can fix your own parts, with a little help from BATEE.com. If you can't solder or just do not want to try to fix it yourself, Bryan would be happy to do it for you.
I found where the ribbon cable on the board (mounted in the C68's box) connects to the face plate was a source of trouble on my unit. The connector on the face plate had become warped and was unable to make good contact with all of the wires. That is where I suspect most of my problems were as it controls what you see on the face plate. I was surprised that the C68 from my car worked at all. After following the instructions that Bryan has on his web site I was able to get my unit working great. I also fixed the dashboard and made all the suggested "upgrades" to more modern components.
Today my dash and A/C controller are both working and nice and bright with no flicker.
By the way, you said that you used Die-electric grease. Are you aware that Die-electric grease is NOT conductive? Do not use it on electrical connections as anything but a protective barrier. I use it primarily on my new weatherstripping to keep it nice and pretty.
Good luck with the flicker and may it get resolved easily!
cleaner the look at all the solder points.
07-24-2017, 02:36 AM
#6
Race Director
The common usage for dielectric grease is to prevent corrosion on electrical connectors. Plugging in the connector wipes away the dielectric grease on the contact surfaces.
07-24-2017, 11:44 AM
#7
Solder corrodes very easily. Just want a little protection.
Thanks for the reply.
08-23-2017, 10:39 AM
#8
You are experiencing issues with a AC controller where the LED's flicker on the face plate. I am assuming that you are describing the Electronic air conditioning control system, the famous "C68". There are cars with the old style that use sliders that you move to get the desired cooling or heating. What I am talking about below is the Electronic control system for your A/C, not the manual one.
I had the same issue on my '88. I used to bang on the bottom of the dash and they would come back on. I finally fixed it the "right" way. It is a fairly simple job to remove the unit and fix it properly.
A bad ground could be creating all your issues but that should be checked before starting any electrical repairs. I had recently changed my radio so I had fixed the bad connections and have full power everywhere now.
I called Bryan Thompson at BATEE.com and found a person who really understands the problems that can occur with the Digital dashboard or the A/C controls.
I bought all the parts from him and fixed my own unit. If you know a bit about electronics and can tell a cold solder joint from a good connection you too can fix your own parts, with a little help from BATEE.com. If you can't solder or just do not want to try to fix it yourself, Bryan would be happy to do it for you.
I found where the ribbon cable on the board (mounted in the C68's box) connects to the face plate was a source of trouble on my unit. The connector on the face plate had become warped and was unable to make good contact with all of the wires. That is where I suspect most of my problems were as it controls what you see on the face plate. I was surprised that the C68 from my car worked at all. After following the instructions that Bryan has on his web site I was able to get my unit working great. I also fixed the dashboard and made all the suggested "upgrades" to more modern components.
Today my dash and A/C controller are both working and nice and bright with no flicker.
By the way, you said that you used Die-electric grease. Are you aware that Die-electric grease is NOT conductive? Do not use it on electrical connections as anything but a protective barrier. I use it primarily on my new weatherstripping to keep it nice and pretty.
Good luck with the flicker and may it get resolved easily!
I had the same issue on my '88. I used to bang on the bottom of the dash and they would come back on. I finally fixed it the "right" way. It is a fairly simple job to remove the unit and fix it properly.
A bad ground could be creating all your issues but that should be checked before starting any electrical repairs. I had recently changed my radio so I had fixed the bad connections and have full power everywhere now.
I called Bryan Thompson at BATEE.com and found a person who really understands the problems that can occur with the Digital dashboard or the A/C controls.
I bought all the parts from him and fixed my own unit. If you know a bit about electronics and can tell a cold solder joint from a good connection you too can fix your own parts, with a little help from BATEE.com. If you can't solder or just do not want to try to fix it yourself, Bryan would be happy to do it for you.
I found where the ribbon cable on the board (mounted in the C68's box) connects to the face plate was a source of trouble on my unit. The connector on the face plate had become warped and was unable to make good contact with all of the wires. That is where I suspect most of my problems were as it controls what you see on the face plate. I was surprised that the C68 from my car worked at all. After following the instructions that Bryan has on his web site I was able to get my unit working great. I also fixed the dashboard and made all the suggested "upgrades" to more modern components.
Today my dash and A/C controller are both working and nice and bright with no flicker.
By the way, you said that you used Die-electric grease. Are you aware that Die-electric grease is NOT conductive? Do not use it on electrical connections as anything but a protective barrier. I use it primarily on my new weatherstripping to keep it nice and pretty.
Good luck with the flicker and may it get resolved easily!
08-23-2017, 11:22 AM
#9
This is the exact same problem I had with mine and the resolution is the same. I took a vice grip, crimped the connector and then applied heat and let it cool back into place from being warped. Worked like a charm....I just wish I would have checked my bulbs, because after I put it all back together, I noticed I had a bulb that wasn't working. But BATEE.com on you tube has perfect videos. They deserve a thanks as well.
point on the connector.