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Never done this on an LS motor, why can't one just loosen the engine mounts and jack up the engine enough to remove the balancer without removing the rack? When doing a cam swap how is this done or is the rack always removed? Thanks
When I did mine I tried to not remove the rack but it was just in the way no matter what I tried so I just pulled it. It wasn't all that hard to do.
Ok thanks ^ I see PowerBond has a stock replacement #PB1117n for $75.00 or a race one #PB117ss at $225.00 I also see a Dayco stock replacement for around $90.00 What are most using?
Need a new crankshaft seal and crank bolt too[/QUOTE]
Are you suggesting a new seal just because or are the PowerBond dia different? I do know on a GMC envoy the Dayco balancer requires a new Dayco seal do to the Dia difference, will leak bad if not changed.
my choice. Not disparaging the ATI, but you just don't need more HB for most applications, especially at double the price for the ATI....just wasted money.
I've done a few, you can remove the rack out towards the passenger side but not totally removing it. The other method is dropping the cradle a bit and remove the steering rack mounting points and tie rod ends and do it that way as well. I've done it both ways and both ways have equal work. I prefer the first method.
Never done this on an LS motor, why can't one just loosen the engine mounts and jack up the engine enough to remove the balancer without removing the rack? When doing a cam swap how is this done or is the rack always removed? Thanks
c5 here (I think c6 is the same) the steering rack does not allow you to get a socket on the HB bolt (and later torque to spec). You can't lower the engine enough to help you here, and moving the steering rack is a lot less work.
At minimum (again on a C5)
remove belts
remove (or push to side) the steering rack
use a puller to remove the HB
reverse install, you're done
what I did (makes life easier DIY) and a fix from the top
remove hood (saves your back)
remove radiator (more room)
remove the alternator, water pump, power steering pump, bracket (15 mins, more room)
remove steering rack (if the wheels are off easy to remove)
replace crank seal (you are right there so might as well)
put to all back together, with new HB
Suggestions if DYI
you need a 250 to 300 ft-lb torque wrench HB install
Use an ARP bolt
if manual put it in 5th, if auto (mine wasn't but ) you need to keep the engine from turning)
c5 here (I think c6 is the same) the steering rack does not allow you to get a socket on the HB bolt (and later torque to spec). You can't lower the engine enough to help you here, and moving the steering rack is a lot less work.
At minimum (again on a C5)
remove belts
remove (or push to side) the steering rack
use a puller to remove the HB
reverse install, you're done
what I did (makes life easier DIY) and a fix from the top
remove hood (saves your back)
remove radiator (more room)
remove the alternator, water pump, power steering pump, bracket (15 mins, more room)
remove steering rack (if the wheels are off easy to remove)
replace crank seal (you are right there so might as well)
put to all back together, with new HB
Suggestions if DYI
you need a 250 to 300 ft-lb torque wrench HB install
Use an ARP bolt
if manual put it in 5th, if auto (mine wasn't but ) you need to keep the engine from turning)
Don't reinstall a new OE balancer
Close with you a lot of the way. You don't need to remove so much stuff unless you're just looking for things to do.
On a C6, the rack needs to get around a lot of brake line plumbing on the driver's side if you pull it which I don't do anymore, never did a C5. But I had hard turn in a different direction than you on the ARP bolt. GM factory bolt is better with torque to yield. And, not likely to get the HB bolt loose or new bolt torqued on a M6 w/o a flywheel lock. I've tried, believe me.
the ARP crank bolt is better quality,easier to install and can be reused.most people don't have access to an angle meter or proper torque wrench at home to use the GM bolt
Close with you a lot of the way. You don't need to remove so much stuff unless you're just looking for things to do.
Agreed, but if DIY in a single car garage w/o jacking up the car it makes life a bit easier when working from the top.
Originally Posted by BlindSpot
... hard turn in a different direction than you on the ARP bolt. GM factory bolt is better with torque to yield. And, not likely to get the HB bolt loose or new bolt torqued on a M6 w/o a flywheel lock. I've tried, believe me.
ARP is a superior fastener to the GM bolt, while "torque to yield" is a more accurate method than using a torque wrench. In a DIY situation you can't see the angle gauge, so I choose the ARP.
Chock the back wheels on a M6(which I forgot to mention), put it in 5th or 6th it will not move. Believe me I've done it.
Agreed, but if DIY in a single car garage w/o jacking up the car it makes life a bit easier when working from the top.
ARP is a superior fastener to the GM bolt, while "torque to yield" is a more accurate method than using a torque wrench. In a DIY situation you can't see the angle gauge, so I choose the ARP.
Chock the back wheels on a M6(which I forgot to mention), put it in 5th or 6th it will not move. Believe me I've done it.
Is there an issue with ARP balancer bolts backing out?
Quote: As for new HB.
PB1503SS (not the PB1503N oem style replacement) and would go with a new one time use OEM bolt and the spec'd 272 loctite when it yield to torque installed, over the ARP bolts that have backed out over time instead.
Is there an issue with ARP balancer bolts backing out?
Quote: As for new HB.
PB1503SS (not the PB1503N oem style replacement) and would go with a new one time use OEM bolt and the spec'd 272 loctite when it yield to torque installed, over the ARP bolts that have backed out over time instead.
<Disclaimer -This is as I understand it and researched it - this is not my profession>
Arp bolt - arp bolts are used in racing applications and they are the highest quality you can buy.
GM bolt - "probably" the cheapest bolts you can use.
The problem - when you torque a fastener down (the bolt) you stretch the bolt on its long axis, that is what provides the clamping force. If the part, in the opposite direction, exceeds the clamping force during use or has a moment (ie rotational force) along with a force against the force clamping force the bolt may loosen over time.
The general fix for this is:
Proper manufacturer's torque value for proper clamping force (Torque to yield is more accurate and the max stretch, but in my DIY case not practical since I could not see the angle gauge )
And a lock washer (locking mechanism to resist the moment arm)
And/or a chemical locking product( to resist the moment arm)
I used red locktite and an Arp bolt. I was the easier choice for my DIY fix. I marked the alignment of the bolt and the HB so that I could check it. So far after a year, no problems, no movement.
I hope this help you and others, if you understand the situation differently or have a better fix please post it.
08-22-2017, 08:49 AM
Balancer removal question
my choice. Not disparaging the ATI, but you just don't need more HB for most applications, especially at double the price for the ATI....just wasted money.
