OldCarBum

Im planning the drive train for my 73 big block. I've been planning to stroke my 454 to 496 cu in, increase the compression ratio to 10.5 to 1, install Edelbrock performer rmp or e series CNC aluminum heads, a hydraulic roller cam, Edelbrock Performer air gap intake, Holley double pumper carb, headers, msd ignition, and other goodies. I'm not sure what hp and tq will be and was wondering if anyone was running something simular and could give an estimate?
The reason for asking is, that I'm also trying to figure out what hp and tq levels I should be looking at for my transmission and how to determine what I need to do to the rear end and half shafts.

Clams Canino

Build it the way you WANT it to be for your budget. Then just replace stuff in the back of the driveline as it snaps. (if it snaps). Heh.
-W

bashcraft

Don't put sticky tires on it and it'll be fine.

GOSFAST

Just to let you know, you can get at 500 HP with ALL your factory components you already own on the 489"/496" platform.

This includes the stock intake, carb (Q-jet), stock exhaust manifolds, OEM heads, etc. We do install some SBC intake valves and Mopar exhausts in most of these OEM (oval-port) headed builds! These builds get 9.5:1 CR's and run with 14" vacuum for the brakes.

If you're looking for more power then go with the aftermarket pieces! Either way for the hyd-roller set the springs up at 160# closed with about a 400#/in rate.

We are in the 650 Hp range on the 496" pump-gas platform with most aftermarket pieces.

Thanks, Gary in N.Y.

P.S. This is exactly the numbers we get from our 100% stock-appearing builds on a Comp Cams retro-hyd roller platform, we also now use stepped-nose cams with the thrust-plate to eliminate any cam buttons or chasing end-play! We actually have pkges we sell including a "Torrinton" timing set for the late cams.

mobird

I would recommend solid spicer U-joints in the rear end and drive shaft. You should already have HD yokes on your half shafts since you have a big block car. In which case I would say just don't put crazy sticky tires on it, wheel spin is your friend when it comes to saving the rear end.

chevymans 77

I've been running my 496 for some time now, with a Lunati solid roller I'm in the 650 to 700 HP range. I'm not sure whats been done to the rear end as its been in the car since I purchased it. The only thing I've done to the rear end is replace the fluid with Amsoil full syn. I ran the factory suspension for years then switched to the DragVette 6-link. I replaced the trans with a custom built 200 (needed OD as I have 4:10 gears) a few years back and have not had any trouble with it. I do run NITTO drag radials year round which have not given me any trouble either. I've never been to the track but have made over a hundred passes to 120 MPH without issue other than blowing a power steering hose.

Neal

OldCarBum

Actually for the 73 BB's the OEM half shafts are 2.5" diameter with the welded seam tubing. Same as SB's
I'm already going to the 3" chrome molly half shafts with solid spicer u joints.

OldCarBum

Thanks, I'm looking at a 2004R for my o.d. trans. Art Carr builds one rated at 895 hp so that should stay together. I know I can easily throw a mint into the rear end. I've already upgraded all my suspension, steering and brake systems.

How is the drive-ability on the street with your set up? Do you regret the hp and tq you have? Can you get into the throttle and keep the car on the road?
Thanks again, Greg

Neil B

I think 600hp is about perfect for a street car. It's enough to be very exhilarating, but not it's not terrifying. With the 290cc RPM heads on a 496, I think you'll be in the 550-600 range. With the E CNC heads, I think you'll make 600-650 with the right valvetrain.

OldCarBum

I know the cam is the heart of the motor. Once I decide on which heads, I will begin research for my cam, and make any final adjustments in the parts so everything is working together as it should. Obviously I want a cam that is going to work in the 1500 to 5500 range and still give me good vacuum and idle. Buying a cam just to get a rough cool idle is for rookies.
Thanks, Greg

cv67

Sounds like youve been around the block
Prefer a good M/T drag radial full time dont need any surprises at hwy speeds. What good is passing gear if you just spin?
thats for kids.....you can still drive a car hard and not break anything its all in common sense and modulating your right foot.

OldCarBum

I have been around the block a few times. Doing it safe and sane and keeping the rubber side down are my moto's.

TimAT

Can you ever have too much?

Gordonm

Nope!

theandies

That is what I was thinking. I don't think I've ever heard a car guy ask that question.

Neil B

If you only intend to go to 5,500 rpm, you may not need the E CNC heads. But I do like those heads. They appear to be very high quality and a great value for a 100% CNC'd head. Plus the exhaust port is only raised .125".

chevymans 77

The solid roller really makes it more street-able which was a surprise to me as this was my first solid roller cam. I can drive it around town with one foot and idle all day long if needed. I have no regrets with the setup as it is, actually I am planning to put nitrous on it in the near future.

As far as getting into it you just have to give it a little respect and learn how to drive it. You need to be gentle in first and careful in second but after that its on.

By the way I talked a lot with Jim and took his advice on the carb, I'm running the Holley 1000HP and once tuned it is a blast to drive.

Neal

OldCarBum

Those were my thoughts. The E-CNC oval port heads flow a little more than I need based on their flow chart, but again I am in the planning stages and I may end up needing the E-CNC heads in the end.

cv67

Dont be afraid of a solid roller on the street guys do it all the time...unless it was a DD Id never go back to hydraulic.

roscobbc

I'm in agreement with this - I'm in this power range and other than Centerforce dual friction clutch and 285/40/18's on the rear end everything else in the drive train is stock (and has been for a few years) I don't do smoky burn-outs - I don't 'drop' the clutch on take-offs.