Pipe doctor

Hello everyone. Please advise. I have a 66 top flight coupe that I have had for about 3 years. regional , national and chapter. I have put about 200 miles on the car since I have had it. There are some oil leaks that I would like to address ... timing chain cover , pan gasket,rear main, slight antifreeze leak at the top of the manifold. The radiator is original to the car and the 89,000 mile original engine has never been out of the car. The exhaust manifolds are somewhat pitted but aren't horrible. I burn a slight amount of oil on start up and right after accelerating. Could possibly be valve seals so I would probably have the heads done too.
I'm a pretty particular person and even know I rarely drive the car it bothers me that things aren't perfect.

I am wondering if I should just pull the original engine and rebuild it or correct the issues I've listed above. I would probabally drive 50-100 more miles a year if I correct these issues either way.

Time is my other issue. I don't have much of it. I would probably tackle the oil leaks and issues stated above.
I am not confident to pull the engine myself so I would have to find a shop to do the whole job. ( perfectly).

WHAT TO DO ?

Easy Rhino

Deny the tyranny of the "or."

Rebuild the engine and fix the oil leaks.

I'll allow that this might be the minority opinion.

Nowhere Man

I would find something else to worry about

still cruzin

89,000 original miles! Definitely rebuild. With the motor that old and that many miles, I wouldn't want to risk having something catastrophic happen to the motor.
The advantages out weigh the dis-advantages at this point.

JMHO

Bob

Mr Fufu

Hi Doc,

You didn't mention cost as a factor in your decision. A proper engine rebuild will cost you a few grand. And, no doubt you'll find other things that should be freshened while you're at it. I ask because you say you only drive your '66 a very few miles each year. So what value would you get from rebuilding the engine? Is it really blowing a lot of blue smoke?
Is it running weak? Making ominous noises? If you drive it reasonably and aren't beating on it (e.g. redline shifts) then I'd think you could get a few thousand miles more out of it without worries of something catastrophic happening. At your rate that's ten years of enjoyment. Get out your carb cleaner and rags now and then to mop up the leaks - oil and antifreeze are a lot cheaper than an engine rebuild.

I own a '65 Buick Riviera that I've had for 34 years. I drove that car over 250,000 miles before deciding to rebuild the engine. By then the engine was getting tired, and was burning oil. But nothing terrible like a knocking rod or constant blue smoke. It ran well enough to cruise around now and then. I just waited until I had the time and money to do a proper rebuild. I enjoyed driving it with its tired nailhead engine and didn't worry about it blowing up. Fact was I just couldn't afford to put money into it while my kids were younger and our mortgage was high.

When I got around to rebuilding the engine a few years ago I also rebuilt the transmission and driveline, as it only made sense to do so when the car was apart.

Just my thoughts. Yours may vary.

Alex

pop23235

I'd verify you are able to maintain crankcase vacuum (PVC, etc.). If you can, then seal the leaks and drive on till oil consumption or oil pressure sends you a clear signal. If you can't, you are looking at a rebuild as that is why you have the leaks.

USMC 0802

Personally, I would rebuild it and enjoy a solid, strong, leak-free (numbers matching) car.

The decision to either live with the leaky, high-mile 327 in my '66, rebuild it or go crate motor was easy because mine is a NOM car (and I drive it a lot). I went crate motor but clearly your car has a provenance you want to maintain.

Life is too short to change a shitty cardboard "diaper" under your beautiful car every few weeks.

Pipe doctor

Ok so thanks for some input. I don't want to do any damage to the engine as it is original. And yes there are plenty of other things to worry about LOL
I just want to car to be right. I understand I won't ever get that money back out of the car but it's not really about the money.
The car is stationed on a lift in my garage so the oil leaks are right there. when I move the drip pans...
I don't beat the car at all and am hesitant to take it to a show more than 20 miles away.
There are other cars in my collection to do that with. I'm leaning on having the engine pulled. The other problem is where do I have it done? With it being a top flight car things are just so. I'm in New Jersey I know ther is "corvette paramedics"but from what I hear they are pricey. Are they worth it? Will they do the job perfect ? Can anyone think of someone in the area that can help me ? And lastly what should I expect to pay for a turn key job .thanks. Clay

cardo0

Before you bite off more than you can chew diagnose the condition of the motor just like a doctor would to a patient - start with a compression test and a leakdown test. This will tell you if it needs a rebuild at all.

A fifty year old motor might have a dried up seal or two don't ya think? Seals are cheap and a good way to get more familiar with your motor. You have just one seal on the front of the motor on the crankshaft snout as it comes through the timing cover. Then just one in the rear of block again on the crankshaft but requires removal of the oil pan which has its own gasket. Finally the valve stems have seals that require removing the rocker arms and valve springs under the valve covers that have their 50 year old gaskets to. IMHO 50 year old valve springs should be not only replaced but upgraded to modern springs too.

All fun to do and much easier than a full rebuild at one tenth the cost. I say drive that motor until it truly needs an overhaul. By then you will be much more with working on it.

Hope this can help.

Robert61

My guess for an r&r and rebuild would be $6k.

ghostrider20

This is a minor project. If it were my car, I would:

Pull the intake, exhaust manifolds, and heads. Send the heads out for a freshen up, surface the intake if needed, and have the exhaust manifolds refinished.

While the heads are out, pull the water pump, timing chain cover, starter and oil pan. Send the starter and alternator out for a rebuild, install new timing chain, and replace the rear main seal. Put a new oil pump in if you want, it will be off anyway.

Any competent mechanic would have the heads, intake, exhaust manifolds, starter, alternator, timing cover, balancer and oil pan sitting on the floor for you to pickup by lunch break.

2-3 days at the machine shop and all your parts will be ready to go.

1 full day for a complete re-assembly.

Compared to doing a head job and timing belt on a modern vehicle, this is child's play.

Crunch527

There is some value to having those issues AND being able to certify that the motor has never been out...gets you some street cred for the engine being a "survivor"...

While I am usually not in agreement with NWM, I recommend you find something else to focus your attention...the car is perfect the way it is...

If you do go down the full rebuild path, be sure the machine shop doesn't deck the block and take your number matching motor stamp with it...

MikeM

On closer inspection, you may find just one or two minor places are causing your problem. Valve seals might stop the smoking on start up and can be done with the heads on.

Don't overlook verifying the PCV valve is holding vacuum on the crank case.

Tampa Jerry

If you do elect for a complete rebuild, make sure the machine shop does not deck the block to the engine pad. That would be costly mistake. Jerry

65hihp

Given that you do not have an engine shop you love already lined up, I strongly suggest you go the low impact route and fix what's broken, i.e. the leaks, and don't fix what ain't, i.e. your original engine. That is what I did on my 64. It leaked everywhere, but the engine was sound. I had the leaks fixed, along with new clutch, and tranny rebuilt while that was out. (synchros were shot). I still have the rear end to pull and fix those leaks, but that can come later. Good luck.

MOXIE62

How do you know it's original motor to car. Someone tell you. Besides fixing the leaks, I would pull the heads for rework. That way you can inspect the cylinder walls and pistons. But also you will know for sure if the engine has been restamp just by the look of the exposed casting.

karkrafter

I'd either leave it alone, you can buy a lot of oil for $6000,[ switch to a full synthetic oil to reduce blue smoke] or rebuild it. Replacement of valve seals is HIGHLY over-rated.

You are NOT going to hurt it driving it. So if you are bucks up...can't take it with you, otherwise I'm sure it will last for ever.

Just double check the oil smell thing, more likely oil is dripping on something HOT and you are smelling it burn off, [or draft tube?]...less likely is you are smelling it out the exhaust.

65tripleblack

First off, the way you use your Corvette, there is no need for an engine rebuild at this time. BUT, if the leaks bother you, then thoroughly degrease and wipe down the entire engine and carefully check for where the leak(s) are coming from. Likely most of them will be easy fixes. If you get 75% of them I'd think you'd be happy. If you rebuild a good running engine, then chances are you could create different problems.

If you insist on a rebuild and need a TOP engine builder/machinist.................someone I have been using for years, located in Keyport, NJ................who knows how fussy Corvette guys are, then PM me and I'll send you Jeff's contact info. Not only is he meticulous, with 45 years of experience, but he won't take extra money or charge higher prices even if you insist on it.

babbah

warrenmj

I bought my '66 L79 in 2000 and the engine ran great, but had numerous oil leaks. I pulled the engine and took off the intake and exhaust manifolds, timing chain cover, fuel pump, valve covers, oil pan and every accessory until I was down to the block. Cleaned and painted everything and put all new gaskets on everything. I never touched the engine internals. Put the engine back in and have driven it ever since (30k miles) without any more oil leaks.