Vette Noob Question - C7 Trim Packages, Track Days, Dealer Price vs What You Paid?
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Vette Noob Question - C7 Trim Packages, Track Days, Dealer Price vs What You Paid?
Hi Guys,
Been researching the '15 to '17 C7 vettes, and plan on buying one as soon as a good deal comes along. The only problem is the cars are so stinkin popular the top deals move in a matter of hours.
I can go up to $60 at the absolute top of my budget, but prefer to spend low $50s or even high $40s if possible. It'll be our 3rd car, so it'd basically be used for bounding around, but I'd also like to take it to a few track days each year. Which brings me to my questions...
The 'dream' car is the '17 GS Watkins Gray LE. One was listed at $63, but it sold literally before the dealer could put up multiple pictures...I say it's my dream car, but there's a lot of blue on the interior...still I just don't think you can get any sexier than that Watkins Gray exterior with the Heritage blue pkg striping on the front.
So question one is, is the Heritage package paint or decals, and how much and hard would it be to add to the blue stripes to a GS that's the standard gray?
Since it'll be used at the track, I'm looking for the magnetic ride suspension...while I really prefer the look of the GS & z06, I'd be open to a Z51 if the right deal came along. Does the Z51 come w/ the magnetic ride suspension to dial it in for the track? I know the data recorder is optional and I'll have to check it on a car by car basis till you get to the 3LT/3LZ level.
There a ton of GS 1LT vehicles available. Almost no GS 2LT, 3LT packages. I've hear the 2LT/3LT package has more track goodies, but are they worth the added cost? If you selected the 2LT/2LZ or 3LT/3LZ package over the 1LT, what's the main reason you went that route?
I used to do trackdays on motorcycles, but have never done one in a car. My two closest tracks would be VIR and CMP, what's the typical price of the average track day for cars? I learned the hard way on bike how important tires are (it was a ballet-esque highside), but I wasn't sure if the same deal applied to getting track tires for cars? I don't plan on ever racing the car...just taking it to the track so I can cut her loose.
I've notice the GS 3LT and z06 1LZ are pretty much at the same price point. If you had to choose between the two, which would you go with?
I've also seen the GS 1LT similarly priced to the Z51 3LT. Besides the looks, what are the differences that might make the GS 1LT the better buy...or is the Z51 3LT the better bargain?
Lastly, when it comes to negotiating the price for a used vette with dealers most seem to only want to move a couple hundred bucks with many actually offering a higher price than sticker with all their little fees. What type of deals did you guys get between the price the dealer offer the car at and the price you paid? Any negotiating tactics you would stress using? I'm dying to get a vette, but I'm also very disciplined. I've walked away from cars in the dealership when we were $400 apart.
Thanks for any advice guys, and hopefully I'll be posting an image of my new ride in the coming weeks
Been researching the '15 to '17 C7 vettes, and plan on buying one as soon as a good deal comes along. The only problem is the cars are so stinkin popular the top deals move in a matter of hours.
I can go up to $60 at the absolute top of my budget, but prefer to spend low $50s or even high $40s if possible. It'll be our 3rd car, so it'd basically be used for bounding around, but I'd also like to take it to a few track days each year. Which brings me to my questions...
The 'dream' car is the '17 GS Watkins Gray LE. One was listed at $63, but it sold literally before the dealer could put up multiple pictures...I say it's my dream car, but there's a lot of blue on the interior...still I just don't think you can get any sexier than that Watkins Gray exterior with the Heritage blue pkg striping on the front.
So question one is, is the Heritage package paint or decals, and how much and hard would it be to add to the blue stripes to a GS that's the standard gray?
Since it'll be used at the track, I'm looking for the magnetic ride suspension...while I really prefer the look of the GS & z06, I'd be open to a Z51 if the right deal came along. Does the Z51 come w/ the magnetic ride suspension to dial it in for the track? I know the data recorder is optional and I'll have to check it on a car by car basis till you get to the 3LT/3LZ level.
There a ton of GS 1LT vehicles available. Almost no GS 2LT, 3LT packages. I've hear the 2LT/3LT package has more track goodies, but are they worth the added cost? If you selected the 2LT/2LZ or 3LT/3LZ package over the 1LT, what's the main reason you went that route?
I used to do trackdays on motorcycles, but have never done one in a car. My two closest tracks would be VIR and CMP, what's the typical price of the average track day for cars? I learned the hard way on bike how important tires are (it was a ballet-esque highside), but I wasn't sure if the same deal applied to getting track tires for cars? I don't plan on ever racing the car...just taking it to the track so I can cut her loose.
I've notice the GS 3LT and z06 1LZ are pretty much at the same price point. If you had to choose between the two, which would you go with?
I've also seen the GS 1LT similarly priced to the Z51 3LT. Besides the looks, what are the differences that might make the GS 1LT the better buy...or is the Z51 3LT the better bargain?
Lastly, when it comes to negotiating the price for a used vette with dealers most seem to only want to move a couple hundred bucks with many actually offering a higher price than sticker with all their little fees. What type of deals did you guys get between the price the dealer offer the car at and the price you paid? Any negotiating tactics you would stress using? I'm dying to get a vette, but I'm also very disciplined. I've walked away from cars in the dealership when we were $400 apart.
Thanks for any advice guys, and hopefully I'll be posting an image of my new ride in the coming weeks
Last edited by jdlev; 09-20-2017 at 04:26 AM.
#3
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Moving this to C7 General.
#4
Le Mans Master
Since it'll be used at the track, I'm looking for the magnetic ride suspension...while I really prefer the look of the GS & z06, I'd be open to a Z51 if the right deal came along. Does the Z51 come w/ the magnetic ride suspension to dial it in for the track? I know the data recorder is optional and I'll have to check it on a car by car basis till you get to the 3LT/3LZ level.
There a ton of GS 1LT vehicles available. Almost no GS 2LT, 3LT packages. I've hear the 2LT/3LT package has more track goodies, but are they worth the added cost? If you selected the 2LT/2LZ or 3LT/3LZ package over the 1LT, what's the main reason you went that route?
I used to do trackdays on motorcycles, but have never done one in a car. My two closest tracks would be VIR and CMP, what's the typical price of the average track day for cars? I learned the hard way on bike how important tires are (it was a ballet-esque highside), but I wasn't sure if the same deal applied to getting track tires for cars? I don't plan on ever racing the car...just taking it to the track so I can cut her loose.
https://www.springmountainmotorsport...-owners-school
I've notice the GS 3LT and z06 1LZ are pretty much at the same price point. If you had to choose between the two, which would you go with?
I've also seen the GS 1LT similarly priced to the Z51 3LT. Besides the looks, what are the differences that might make the GS 1LT the better buy...or is the Z51 3LT the better bargain?
Lastly, when it comes to negotiating the price for a used vette with dealers most seem to only want to move a couple hundred bucks with many actually offering a higher price than sticker with all their little fees. What type of deals did you guys get between the price the dealer offer the car at and the price you paid? Any negotiating tactics you would stress using? I'm dying to get a vette, but I'm also very disciplined. I've walked away from cars in the dealership when we were $400 apart.
Thanks for any advice guys, and hopefully I'll be posting an image of my new ride in the coming weeks
Thanks for any advice guys, and hopefully I'll be posting an image of my new ride in the coming weeks
Also, what car are you driving now? The C7 could be a huge jump for you and a Z06 might be too big a jump.
Last edited by thill444; 09-20-2017 at 08:36 AM.
#5
Burning Brakes
Wow jd, lots of questions. I'll only address the ones that I can.
You must be located near me. Typically clubs (BMW, Porsche, etc.) do weekend events that run around $400-450 last I checked.
The OE tires are pretty good, but you'll notice a huge improvement with dedicated race tires, fer sure. I strongly recommend that you do a few events with street tires first, to learn the car before you start getting those high speeds that race tires can give you. They're less forgiving than street tires, as you probably know.
OK, I'm going to get a lot of grief for this, but this is my opinion:
The better buy is the 1LT Stingray. You can buy a new one for $50K or less. What is a Z51? It's a stingray with stiffer suspension. What's a GS? It's a stingray with stiffer suspension and a dry sump. What's a Z06? It's a heck of a lot more, a track car that can be driven on the street. But it's a track car, first and foremost. Keep that in mind.
If you want a track monster, get a Z06. End of story. If you want a nice car to have fun with, occasionally take to the track, then get a 1LT and enjoy it. If you want to spend money, then get the fancy packages and all those expensive options, but it won't make the car any better or any faster.
You probably already know this, as it applies to bikes as well as cars: you can put a novice in a fast car and he'll never keep up with an experienced driver in a slow car. Buy the 1LT stingray and take your savings to spend on track time.
The OE tires are pretty good, but you'll notice a huge improvement with dedicated race tires, fer sure. I strongly recommend that you do a few events with street tires first, to learn the car before you start getting those high speeds that race tires can give you. They're less forgiving than street tires, as you probably know.
...what are the differences that might make the GS 1LT the better buy...or is the Z51 3LT the better bargain?
The better buy is the 1LT Stingray. You can buy a new one for $50K or less. What is a Z51? It's a stingray with stiffer suspension. What's a GS? It's a stingray with stiffer suspension and a dry sump. What's a Z06? It's a heck of a lot more, a track car that can be driven on the street. But it's a track car, first and foremost. Keep that in mind.
If you want a track monster, get a Z06. End of story. If you want a nice car to have fun with, occasionally take to the track, then get a 1LT and enjoy it. If you want to spend money, then get the fancy packages and all those expensive options, but it won't make the car any better or any faster.
You probably already know this, as it applies to bikes as well as cars: you can put a novice in a fast car and he'll never keep up with an experienced driver in a slow car. Buy the 1LT stingray and take your savings to spend on track time.
#6
Le Mans Master
Wow jd, lots of questions. I'll only address the ones that I can.
You must be located near me. Typically clubs (BMW, Porsche, etc.) do weekend events that run around $400-450 last I checked.
The OE tires are pretty good, but you'll notice a huge improvement with dedicated race tires, fer sure. I strongly recommend that you do a few events with street tires first, to learn the car before you start getting those high speeds that race tires can give you. They're less forgiving than street tires, as you probably know.
OK, I'm going to get a lot of grief for this, but this is my opinion:
The better buy is the 1LT Stingray. You can buy a new one for $50K or less. What is a Z51? It's a stingray with stiffer suspension. What's a GS? It's a stingray with stiffer suspension and a dry sump. What's a Z06? It's a heck of a lot more, a track car that can be driven on the street. But it's a track car, first and foremost. Keep that in mind.
If you want a track monster, get a Z06. End of story. If you want a nice car to have fun with, occasionally take to the track, then get a 1LT and enjoy it. If you want to spend money, then get the fancy packages and all those expensive options, but it won't make the car any better or any faster.
You probably already know this, as it applies to bikes as well as cars: you can put a novice in a fast car and he'll never keep up with an experienced driver in a slow car. Buy the 1LT stingray and take your savings to spend on track time.
You must be located near me. Typically clubs (BMW, Porsche, etc.) do weekend events that run around $400-450 last I checked.
The OE tires are pretty good, but you'll notice a huge improvement with dedicated race tires, fer sure. I strongly recommend that you do a few events with street tires first, to learn the car before you start getting those high speeds that race tires can give you. They're less forgiving than street tires, as you probably know.
OK, I'm going to get a lot of grief for this, but this is my opinion:
The better buy is the 1LT Stingray. You can buy a new one for $50K or less. What is a Z51? It's a stingray with stiffer suspension. What's a GS? It's a stingray with stiffer suspension and a dry sump. What's a Z06? It's a heck of a lot more, a track car that can be driven on the street. But it's a track car, first and foremost. Keep that in mind.
If you want a track monster, get a Z06. End of story. If you want a nice car to have fun with, occasionally take to the track, then get a 1LT and enjoy it. If you want to spend money, then get the fancy packages and all those expensive options, but it won't make the car any better or any faster.
You probably already know this, as it applies to bikes as well as cars: you can put a novice in a fast car and he'll never keep up with an experienced driver in a slow car. Buy the 1LT stingray and take your savings to spend on track time.
Z51 vs base:
Larger wheels (19-inch front and 20-inch rear) give the Z51 a unique look while also giving increased grip for the rear-wheel drive powertrain
A dry sump oil system ensures your engine always draws its oil from a fresh reservoir and keeps it from affecting performance by sloshing around on sharp turns.
A unique Aero Package reduces lift and boosts high-speed driving stability.
Larger front brakes (with black calipers) and slotted brake rotors help improve braking response time without sacrificing cooling power (or style).
Springs, shocks, and stabilizer bars (built specifically for the Z51) tighten up handling and deliver a more responsive ride.
An electronic limited slip differential assesses driving conditions and improves steering balance and stability.
Performance gear ratios are optimized for getting the most out of the 6.2L V8’s power and contribute to the 29 mpg highway fuel economy
And Z51 will still retain warranty if you take it on track and follow the GM maintenance procedures. Base Stingray could get denied a warranty for track use. Not sure if any have, who knows what GM will do.
Last edited by thill444; 09-20-2017 at 08:57 AM.
#7
Moderator
The PTM system contains five
modes. These modes are selected
by turning the Selective Ride
Control/Performance Traction
Management MODE SELECT ****
on the center console. Scroll up or
down through modes 1–5 by turning
the MODE SELECT **** to the
right or left.
The following is a DIC display
description and the recommended
usage of each mode:
PERF TRAC 1 – WET ACTIVE
HANDLING ON
. Intended for all driver skill levels.
. Wet or damp conditions only —
not intended for use in heavy
rain or standing water.
. StabiliTrak is on and engine
power is reduced based on
conditions.
PERF TRAC 2 – DRY ACTIVE
HANDLING ON
. For use by less experienced
drivers or while learning a new
track.
. Dry conditions only.
. StabiliTrak is on and engine
power is slightly reduced.
PERF TRAC 3 – SPORT
ACTIVE HANDLING ON
. For use by drivers who are
familiar with the track.
. Dry conditions only.
. Requires more driving skill than
mode 2.
. StabiliTrak is on and more
engine power is available than in
mode 2.
PERF TRAC 4 – SPORT
ACTIVE HANDLING OFF
. For use by drivers who are
familiar with the track.
. Dry conditions only.
. Requires more driving skill than
modes 2 or 3.
. StabiliTrak is off and available
engine power is the same as
mode 3.
PERF TRAC 5 – RACE ACTIVE
HANDLING OFF
. For use by experienced drivers
who are familiar with the track.
. Dry conditions only.
. Requires more driving skill than
in other modes.
. StabiliTrak is off and engine
power is available for maximum
cornering speed.
modes. These modes are selected
by turning the Selective Ride
Control/Performance Traction
Management MODE SELECT ****
on the center console. Scroll up or
down through modes 1–5 by turning
the MODE SELECT **** to the
right or left.
The following is a DIC display
description and the recommended
usage of each mode:
PERF TRAC 1 – WET ACTIVE
HANDLING ON
. Intended for all driver skill levels.
. Wet or damp conditions only —
not intended for use in heavy
rain or standing water.
. StabiliTrak is on and engine
power is reduced based on
conditions.
PERF TRAC 2 – DRY ACTIVE
HANDLING ON
. For use by less experienced
drivers or while learning a new
track.
. Dry conditions only.
. StabiliTrak is on and engine
power is slightly reduced.
PERF TRAC 3 – SPORT
ACTIVE HANDLING ON
. For use by drivers who are
familiar with the track.
. Dry conditions only.
. Requires more driving skill than
mode 2.
. StabiliTrak is on and more
engine power is available than in
mode 2.
PERF TRAC 4 – SPORT
ACTIVE HANDLING OFF
. For use by drivers who are
familiar with the track.
. Dry conditions only.
. Requires more driving skill than
modes 2 or 3.
. StabiliTrak is off and available
engine power is the same as
mode 3.
PERF TRAC 5 – RACE ACTIVE
HANDLING OFF
. For use by experienced drivers
who are familiar with the track.
. Dry conditions only.
. Requires more driving skill than
in other modes.
. StabiliTrak is off and engine
power is available for maximum
cornering speed.
#8
Burning Brakes
I stand corrected. Sorry guys, I didn't realize that the Z51 had all of that stuff.
Apparently the Z51 is $5K on top of whatever trim level you choose. Since I don't track my car any more, it's all fluff to me, but if you are planning numerous weekends at the track, especially in the south, then all of those extra coolers and performance software may well be worth it.
Apparently the Z51 is $5K on top of whatever trim level you choose. Since I don't track my car any more, it's all fluff to me, but if you are planning numerous weekends at the track, especially in the south, then all of those extra coolers and performance software may well be worth it.
#9
Melting Slicks
I will limit my comments to 1LT-2LT-3LT and GS to Z51.
2LT adds as useful options: heads-up display & front cameras; plus as fluff: heated/cooled seats, extra subwoofer, more color trim if you choose the gray/red/brown interiors.
3LT adds as a useful option: PDR; everything else is fluff.
PDR is a great option and is available as a stand alone for both 1LT and 2LT.
GS is a Z06 without the supercharger and costs $2,200 more than a Z51 with MSRC (part of all GS & Z06).
To me, with the introduction of the GS, a Z51 with MSRC just doesn't make sense - personally, I wouldn't spend the money for a well optioned Z51.
I have had both 1LT & 2LT C7's, and honestly the only thing I would miss going from a 2LT back to the 1LT is the front cameras.
OP - I would look really hard at a GS 1LT with PDR for your use.
2LT adds as useful options: heads-up display & front cameras; plus as fluff: heated/cooled seats, extra subwoofer, more color trim if you choose the gray/red/brown interiors.
3LT adds as a useful option: PDR; everything else is fluff.
PDR is a great option and is available as a stand alone for both 1LT and 2LT.
GS is a Z06 without the supercharger and costs $2,200 more than a Z51 with MSRC (part of all GS & Z06).
To me, with the introduction of the GS, a Z51 with MSRC just doesn't make sense - personally, I wouldn't spend the money for a well optioned Z51.
I have had both 1LT & 2LT C7's, and honestly the only thing I would miss going from a 2LT back to the 1LT is the front cameras.
OP - I would look really hard at a GS 1LT with PDR for your use.
#11
Instructor
Thread Starter
Wow, thanks for all the advice guys. Decided to open up the criteria a bit to include the 1LT/LZ packages, and found a couple good deals on GS's. Might actually pick one up this weekend!
Thanks for all the feedback guys (except rrsperry who knows where he can shove that miata)...you really helped clarify some of the points with my decision making process. Hopefully will be updating the avatar with a new '17 or '18 gs in the next 2-3 weeks
Thanks for all the feedback guys (except rrsperry who knows where he can shove that miata)...you really helped clarify some of the points with my decision making process. Hopefully will be updating the avatar with a new '17 or '18 gs in the next 2-3 weeks
#12
Race Director
Member Since: Mar 2001
Location: Bonneville Salt Flats, 223mph Aug. '04
Posts: 17,381
Received 5,188 Likes
on
3,440 Posts
I don't know your distance limitations, or if you have any, but for me it was worthwhile to fly 1400 miles and shop at Kerbeck's. When I told other dealers who kept calling me of my deal, they quit bothering me... or, in the case of a local, he nearly cried! All the best on your search.
#13
Melting Slicks
As a suggestion to the OP. Why don't you download my spreadsheet that is located here on the forum. It has all the 2018 pricing for all the models and shows all the options and standard offerings for each model. It will give you a better idea of what falls in your budget and hopefully help you make a better decision. I think you will like it. Let me know what you think.
2018 Corvette Pricing
2018 Corvette Pricing
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Kevin A Jones (09-24-2017)
#14
Race Director
OK, I'm going to get a lot of grief for this, but this is my opinion:
The better buy is the 1LT Stingray. You can buy a new one for $50K or less. What is a Z51? It's a stingray with stiffer suspension. What's a GS? It's a stingray with stiffer suspension and a dry sump. What's a Z06? It's a heck of a lot more, a track car that can be driven on the street. But it's a track car, first and foremost. Keep that in mind.
How about the GS being a wide body thus a substantially different look and improved handling, larger wheels/tires, NPP exhaust among other things. The GS is much closer to the ZO6 than the base Stingray!
#15
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Aug 2016
Location: MOUNTAIN HOME Arkansas
Posts: 2,687
Received 957 Likes
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620 Posts
Wow, thanks for all the advice guys. Decided to open up the criteria a bit to include the 1LT/LZ packages, and found a couple good deals on GS's. Might actually pick one up this weekend!
Thanks for all the feedback guys (except rrsperry who knows where he can shove that miata)...you really helped clarify some of the points with my decision making process. Hopefully will be updating the avatar with a new '17 or '18 gs in the next 2-3 weeks
Thanks for all the feedback guys (except rrsperry who knows where he can shove that miata)...you really helped clarify some of the points with my decision making process. Hopefully will be updating the avatar with a new '17 or '18 gs in the next 2-3 weeks
Last edited by madrob2020; 09-24-2017 at 08:49 AM.