Frame77

Hi,
I'll be doing a mild H/C upgrade this winter along with some other upgrades like motor mount, full exhaust.
Have a 98 C5 manual with 90k miles.
Shooting for 450HP at the clutch.

So while I'm in there, I will inspect the clutch and replace the torque tube couplers and bearings.

I found the part numbers and the RPM rebuild kit.
http://www.speedinc.com/shop-by-manu...aring-kit.html

RPM also offers the kit with GM couplers for an additional 150$, so I was wondering whether their own cheaper couplers are sufficient for my build? Or should I go with GM couplers?

As for the clutch, since the LS7 is half the price I will use that as a replacement if needed. But since it's a lot heavier, is there a lighter flywheel available to compensate this?
What else do I need for clutch replacement? Which Master/Slaves are recommended?

bigmackloud

I decided to go with the Monster Stage 2 clutch and their 18 lb lightweight flywheel. They offer it with a GM slave cylinder (an absolute must). And I also got the Tick Performance remote speed bleeder (highly recommend, only $50). Tick also makes a very nice adjustable clutch master cylinder.

strand rider

I would call RPM before I would ask a guy like me about parts.

From information gathered here, I went with a new C6 master and slave. Tick wasn't in the market at the time

Since I used a shop, my story tells itself. I payed for parts and labor, so would select the best I could find, not wanting to add grief from poor stewardship to some unknown painful future situation. I haven't the skills to make fine judgements on critical parts, so follow advice, if reasonable, or buy GM parts, as experts have advised in talks.

Just for fun, look for pictures of a failed product, now withdrawn from the market, the six shooter, revolver, something like that. A urethane part with some emphatic ad copy, and ticked off customers. The same kind of part you are asking about, but seat of the pants engineering, in contrast to GM and their market responsibilities.

strand rider

I would call RPM before I would ask a guy like me about parts.

From information gathered here, I went with a new C6 master and slave. Tick wasn't in the market at the time

Since I used a shop, my story tells itself. I payed for parts and labor, so would select the best I could find, not wanting to add grief from poor stewardship to some unknown painful future situation. I haven't the skills to make fine judgements on critical parts, so follow advice, if reasonable, or buy GM parts, as experts have advised in talks.

Just for fun, look for pictures of a failed product, now withdrawn from the market, the six shooter, revolver, something like that. A urethane part with some emphatic ad copy, and ticked off customers. The same kind of part you are asking about, but seat of the pants engineering, in contrast to GM and their market responsibilities.

Frame77

I'm definetely not using the six shooter

Ok, so I'll change the clutch, pilot bearing and master/slave and install the remote bleeder.

One more question: I've seen a few videos and how-to's and everyone removes the axles from the diff even though the cradle and trans are lowered as one assembly.
Why is this? Doesn't make sense to me.

bigmackloud

It depends on your method. If you leave the brake lines (the hard molded lines) in the car, then you'll have to at least pull the cv shafts out of the diff so the brake lines can get by. The hard lines are clipped to the rear cradle in several spots so make sure to locate these and unclip them so you don't bend anything. You'll also need to pull the calipers off the brackets/rotors and hang them from the frame. (don't let them hang by the brake hoses). This is the method I used. Just personal preference as I didn't want to drain the brake system.

The other method is to disconnect the brake lines and pull them with the diff/suspension. There's a disconnect fitting above the trans/diff. You'll probably have to drop the rear cradle some to get access to it. I'm not sure that one method is particularly "easier" than the other.

Frame77

Allright, so I'll pull the shafts.
Thanks!

Bill Curlee

I have the same 450 RWHP C5 ZO6 project and its amazing..

I used a SPEC Twin Disk clutch. Mine worked excellent!

Some things that I learned:

Is this the OEM C5 Clutch in the 98? If so,,, You need to be aware of the GM HOT BALANCE that was done to all MN6-MN12 cars. See below for some light reading:

- C5 Clutch Vibration Issues: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1585950971

- C5 FLYWHEEL BALANCE ISSUES: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...ion-twice.html

- - C5 Clutch Vibration Issues: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1585950971 <http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-tech/3403737-vibration-after-new-clutch-install.html#post1585950971> C5, C6, C7 HOT BALANCE See time stamp at approx 8


When you reinstall what ever clutch you pick, You should check the critical slave cylinder to pressure plate measurements. That will tell you if you need to add a shim behind the slave of not. DONT GUESS or HOPE its correct! I don't think the C6 Slave will fit in a C5 Application?

- - TICK SHIM MEASUREMENT from the parts web site: http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...nder-shim-055/ http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...nder-shim-055/

Some ADDITIONAL THINGS to consider. Did I tell you this is a sickness??


- C5, ragtopws6 , Upgrading your C5 rear with C6 Z06 guts, : http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...-z06-guts.html
-

- C5, Its_Go_Time, Output Shaft Install - Left and Right: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...post1573407966

- C5 Differential Seal replacement: http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-g...on-photos.html

Traction will be your next goal! Then eliminating wheel hop!! What C5 suspension do you have now???

If you get a large boar TICK Master, you WILL have heavy peddle pressure. Make SURE that you read up and learn how to PROPERLY adjust the TICk Master so that you do NOT damage your pressure plate. Start out with the rod as short as possible. JACK the rear wheels off the ground, trans in 1st, clutch fully depressed.. Then lengthen the adjustment rod until your rear wheel stop driving when the clutch is fully depressed. You may need to make some very fine tuning adjustments from there but, it will be in the ball park.

Hope this helps

Bill C

dork

This may not make any sense in your configuration plans, but since you'll have the transmission out you might consider replacing the gears with 4.10s. "Just gears" means you don't have to worry about springs, intake, etc., and that elusive "perfect recommendation" for compatible parts (H/C/I) is not required. But I dunno if 4.10s is enough to satisfy your need for more grunt. If someone else is gonna do the work, 4.10s won't add any more labor costs.

I, too, added a Tick MC and clutch bleeder, along with their lightweight flywheel (12 or 14 lb, I can't remember which). With a tune added this car can easily keep up with my bone stock c7 z51 in the straights though the gas mileage is meager at ~22+ mpg at 75mph.

Frame77

I already have the H/C/I Package, but switching gears might be a good idea (got 3.42)

I'll be using a mild cam (224/228 at 0.50 Lift, max Lift 0,588, LSA114), 243 Heads and LS6 intake. Also have a Vararam and Kooks headers/X-pipe.
Might not be a good combination with the 4.1 gears, I'm not into drag racing.


Yes this is the OEM clutch. Will have the new clutch balanced.
I'm runninng Hankook S1 EVO tires (305/25 20"), Z51 springs, C6Z06 shocks and have the afe/pfadt poly bushing set installed.
New wheel hubs and knuckles.

dork

If you're not into drag racing, I'd skip the 4.10s then since you've already gathered the H/C/I parts. My engine is stock except for LT headers and a Callaway Honker. I have to baby the pedal at a light from a starting stop to ~12-15mph and get into 3rd gear because the 4.10s make 1st almost useless. I don't use 2nd gear at all anymore.

Frame77

Guess I'll try to find some 3.73.
I'm in Germany, think 3.9 and higher will overheat without proper cooling.

bigmackloud

I think it may be personal preference. PO installed 4.10 gears in my C5 and I like them. 6th is finally usable on the hwy and it pulls strong out of corners at the track. I don't drag race so I can't comment on that.

SaberD

Here's a post I made where I replaced just about everything imaginable during a clutch job.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...dies-pics.html

Frame77

Thanks, got the TT out, Clutch will be replaced with an LS7, the old one is worn out.

Frame77

Wow, just went through your thread.
That will help a lot.

How do you like the 3.73 gears?
Did you use an OEM master?

Rx7Rob

Check your limited slip before dropping the rear cradle. I found mine was bad AFTER completing the clutch change.

Depending on what you do with the car you might want to rethink the LS7 clutch. I've read it has a higher moment of inertia than stock C5. I went with the LT1s clutch and lightweight flywheel since I wanted lower MOI.

SaberD

The gears were a bit of a trade off. My highway rpms are definitely a lot higher, and so the car is a bit louder. I need to get around to putting in some dynomat. Gas mileage went down too. Also, I think 1st gear is a bit less usable.

Of course I get a lot better acceleration with the new gears, and the gears don't seem too short at all if you are really getting on the throttle. I believe the 3.73 gears with a mn6 yield the same final ratio as the mn12 trans with 3.42 gears in gears 1-5. I've also noticed that 6th gear is a lot more usable.

I think the best combo would be an mn12 trans with a 3.42 diff if this is the ratio you're looking for. I might end up doing that someday if the trans ever starts to go.

I did go with the OEM master.

Frame77

Then I think the 3.73s will be good for me. Tranny was checked 2 years ago and looked great.
I need the 6th gear here in Germany

And I MIGHT need some Couplers and Bearings