Clams Canino

And why please??
Thanks in advance.
-W

63mako

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/w...make/chevrolet
Billet caps, splayed mains, raised cam W/ roller bearings, no clearancing for 4" stroke, no small base circle cam required, priority main oiling, standard deck.
That said if I was going all in I would spend $2000 more and go Brodix aluminum. #100 lighter.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/b...make/chevrolet

http://brodix.com/blocks-list/small-block

cv67

Nice , didnt know Brodix still made them , wanted a GM alum block but the machinist wouldnt do it for a solid roller st car

What lifter bore dia does that Brodix piece come with? Has some potential there.

JoeC427

Get a Dart Block and it will handle whatever you decide to build. They are the best IMO

Jeffs82c3

I went with the Dart block...

63mako

.842. Can get them .875 and .903. Whatever you want. That is the nice thing about Brodix, they will do whatever configuration you can think of. Multiple cam heights and bores. These will take a 4.25 stroke crank if that is what you want.

stingraymax

cooper9811

I went with a short block using the Dart SHP from Ohio Crankshaft. Reasonable price for a short block.

http://www.ohiocrank.com/chev_sb_shortb.html

Jebbysan

Dart Little M.......nodular splay cap is more than enough.
The World block is a great piece too....but Dart gets my money.

Jebby

cv67

a big bore alum.block, some compression, solid roller and an Sb2.2 head
Yep daily driver

gkull

The Dart SHP is really only made for 3.750 stroke. I spent a lot of man hours clearancing the block for 3.875 to make a 415 ci.

I personally own the Motown. The advantages were over bore clear out to 4.200 or something like that. The raised cam makes it so you don't have to worry about small base circle cams or clearance issues with the rods when using large H beam 6 inch. The other great thing is the large oil port on the upper rear side of the block. It is all setup for exteral oiling like Accusumps. Very necessary for road racing.

The Dart raised cam is also great, but they require specialized timing sets... IE jesel toothed belt cam drive setups.

I have never worked on the Dart little M

Also these blocks come unfinished. So add about $500 to labor at a machine shop. For bore finish, cam borings, freeze plugs, block plugs.....

cv67

Did a road race motor using a Little M about 8-9 yrs ago would recommend the same thing..its a nice block
Definitely make sure the water jackets are clean, mine was filled with metal shavings would have made a mess had someone just screwed it together lol.

68sixspeed

I have a dart shp short block 427 on the engine stand, bought from jegs as an assy. Everything looks good, Callies rods and crank, I think Mahle pistons. This is replacing a Motown aluminum block that gave me nothing but trouble with rings and pistons. Long story but the short version is the sleeves on the block are too short on the Motown alum block, the piston rocks at the bottom of stroke, even though they sold them as ok for 4" stroke. Now I need to find a project to put the motor in... I can't get myself to mod the c3/lt1.

cv67

Do it, noone will know except you!

gkull

Could I ask you a couple of questions did you have 6 inch rods with the super short pistons where the pin is up near the second ring. I've built a few motown motors turning 7500 rpm

drwet

68sixspeed

Yes, 6" rods to get a better rod ratio, j&e flat top forged pistons. Tried .043 and 1/16 ring pistons too before discovering the gauge width, widest spot on the piston would drop out of the sleeve at the bottom of the stroke, still dynod 623hp on pump gas but would smoke and use oil in less than 1k miles. If I recall correct it was built, then reringed, then new pistons/rings, then we finally figured it out, with no rings on the pistons it had a ton of rock in the piston at bottom of stroke. Maybe a special piston with a higher gauge width location would have helped but at that point I was sick of it and had spent stupid amounts of money so I swapped in a ls7 which makes about the same power and is so much more drivable.

But again, I think this is an anomaly to their aluminum block due to the steel sleeve length.

Gale Banks 80'

I used the GMPP Aluminum Block. ( 400 ci) My machinist said it was the first aftermarket Block he didn't have to get the grinder out to make things work.

Neil B

I used a GMPP Bow Tie Sportsman block (4.125 bore) and would do it again. It was ready to assemble after a hone/final bore sizing, cam bearings, and deck height to suit. The main bearing clearances were spot on with a Callies Dragsonslayer crank. Most people use a 2-piece seal crank, but I used a 1-piece seal block and crank and it is still dry as a bone years later. I can't stand leaks.

MotorHead

Motown, hands down, will accept a 4 in. crank out of the box, no machining required. All five of the crank caps are 4 bolt billet steel and the inner three are splayed.

Unless you botch the assembly or use the wrong parts these blocks will handle north of 7000RPM without braking a sweat.