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I could use some help in figuring out what engine I have. Some said it's a crate engine, but what exactly, 454, 502? The thing I'm after is what spark plugs should I buy and do I need the extended tip? Don't want to hit a piston. Hot plug, cold plug? And this has alum. heads, is the plugs taper seat or gasket?
I've taken pics of every number I could find. Anything will be appreciated.
concerning the plugs you have no picture of the spark plug hole in the head or a clean picture of the name on the head. The plug hole will tell you whether taper seat without gasket or flat seat with gasket is required plus the head manufacturer will have suggestions.
The original engine plant stamp T0212PCJ means it started life as a 1991 230HP/454ci truck engine. Looks like there may have been a few mods since then.
The 10114182 casting was a ‘91 and up, 4-bolt main, Gen V engine.
Pics aren't very good, hard to get in there with a camera, but it looks like a tapered seat to me, what do you all think?
GM started using tapered seat plugs in '71 if memory serves me correctly. Look for a head casting number (under the valve cover) to tell for sure what heads on it.
GM started using tapered seat plugs in '71 if memory serves me correctly. Look for a head casting number (under the valve cover) to tell for sure what heads on it.
Got the cover off and I see one reason why it's missing and not getting any power, one of the rocker arms was so loose I could unscrew it with my fingers. It doesn't appear much damage occurred so I'm thinking about cleaning the threads and reinstalling with lock tight(red or blue?) Also, I don't understand how these are adjusted. I assume these are hydraulic lifters but see no means to adjust. And what torque value do I use when I reinstall the bolt?
The casting # is 12363401, again, what spark plug?
Your 12363401’s, are Bowtie Signature Series after-market heads and definitely take a tapered seat spark plug. A Google search will give you the details – haven’t kept up with the aftermarket racing world.
Hydraulic lifters are not "adjustable" in the same sense as a solid lifter. You set them and forget them. If they are too tight the lifter will not work at as designed. You set them and forget them. That is the beauty/advantage of them over solids.
Okay, I now understand how these are adjusted, didn't notice the allen screw before. Now the question is, are they hydraulic or solid? With a flashlight, I can see a snap ring in the lifter. I would think this would be hydraulic.
Anyway, as 68hemi says, I shouldn't have to change the setting, just reinstall the bolt, right?
how are you going to reinstall a rocker arm stud with the rocker arm already on the stud? You sure the threads arent stripped out of the head?
Place the engine at #1 TDC and check the #1 rocker arm clearances with a small feeler gauge, maybe .010. If the gauge doesnt go in without forcing it I would say you have hydraulics, If it flops around you have solids.
how are you going to reinstall a rocker arm stud with the rocker arm already on the stud? You sure the threads arent stripped out of the head?
Place the engine at #1 TDC and check the #1 rocker arm clearances with a small feeler gauge, maybe .010. If the gauge doesnt go in without forcing it I would say you have hydraulics, If it flops around you have solids.
I haven't done #1 yet, but there were others that had movement. Can't get even .001" under them but it's loose enough to move around with my hand. I wouldn't think it would be loose at all if I had hydraulics. Right?
Also, every thing I read says to refer to the cam specs for setting the rockers. I bought the car with zero documentation. Is there a generic setting that I can use?
Can someone take a guess on what kind of lifter this is?
Last edited by 59BlueSilver; 09-23-2017 at 06:38 PM.
You are getting drips of information here. What I think you need is to have an actual experienced mechanic go over your engine. You've got Carillo rods ($$) roller rockers ($), who knows what cam or pistons. You could cost your self a lot of money messing further without knowing what you're doing.... In my humble opinion
You are getting drips of information here. What I think you need is to have an actual experienced mechanic go over your engine. You've got Carillo rods ($$) roller rockers ($), who knows what cam or pistons. You could cost your self a lot of money messing further without knowing what you're doing.... In my humble opinion
How is he going to know without disassembling the entire engine? Is that what has to happen to get the gap for the rockers and to find out what spark plug it takes?
I know my limitations but think I can set this if I had the specs. Besides, if it does have solids, then they'll need periodic readjustment so I may as well learn now.
I haven't done #1 yet, but there were others that had movement. Can't get even .001" under them but it's loose enough to move around with my hand. I wouldn't think it would be loose at all if I had hydraulics. Right?
Also, every thing I read says to refer to the cam specs for setting the rockers. I bought the car with zero documentation. Is there a generic setting that I can use?
Can someone take a guess on what kind of lifter this is?
As someone else mentioned if there is a link between the lifters they are roller and a hydraulic roller on the cams base circle will have some play which is why going to #1 TDC will eliminate your guessing.
On the spark plug question, didnt the engine come with spark plugs? what make and number were they?
Heads say GMPP on them bet the farm those are Edelbrock heads (they used em on thier crates), give them a call...dont bother with extra cold or hot. Someone sunk some $ in that motor has some decent stuff..agree with hydraulic roller
Check the pushrod from that cyl with the banged up rocker make sure it isnt bent. You can roll it on a glass table top to see.
Today I checked all the lifters and they're set with zero gap. I can wiggle the rocker arm but can't get anything under it, not even .001. Are they set correctly?
Bubba honked up a few things like the wiring so didn't want to trust he got the right spark plugs. I replaced his Autolite AP24 with NGK 7052, seems to run alright.
I have this question submitted to Summit since they sell a similar head but haven't received a response yet. Hopefully tomorrow.
Heads say GMPP on them bet the farm those are Edelbrock heads (they used em on thier crates), give them a call...dont bother with extra cold or hot. Someone sunk some $ in that motor has some decent stuff..agree with hydraulic roller
Check the pushrod from that cyl with the banged up relocker make sure it isnt bent. You can roll it on a glass table top to see.
Edelbrock has made the aluminum heads for GM BB crate motors for quite a while
09-22-2017, 06:17 PM
What Engine in my '65?
