MY95 New OEM Keyfob wont program
#1
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MY95 New OEM Keyfob wont program
First off the car is a 95 6spd LT1, when I bought it the PO said he didn't have any keyfobs.
Fast forward a year I purchased a new OEM FOB and have been attempting to program it for the last couple days.
I go through the procedure to get into program mode, and it starts off without any issues. The light first comes up solid, then when I turn the key into the off position, the light will start to blink. When I bring the fob into range the light will continue to blink until the cycle completes. I replaced the battery (tested voltage to make sure 3.22v) and it made no difference. Also during testing I shook around the remote, pressed buttons etc. no difference.
Ignition off and key left in signals chime sound every time, and door ajar sensors tested both working consistently. (I have now found only the driver side door will signal the chime, the passenger door will NOT)
Interior lighting will not dim when turning off, only shut off in one motion. I have heard that can be somehow tied to the PKE, but I am unsure if it is related to the issue.
Ran the PKE diagnostic (Pins 4 and 8) and only got error #13 for transmitter out of range.
Ran the full diagnostic mode (Pins 4 and 12) and got 1 code (H72) for module 1 (for my aftermarket Nav unit I believe) and none for Modules 4 and 9, I got a number of codes airbag module probably since i swapped steering wheels (C26, C61, C62, H26, H61, H62).
I also checked fuses #26, #40, and #42 (also ended up checking pretty much all the fuses in the passenger panel while I was at it) none of which were missing or blown.
So the summary of this essay would point to the new FOB was a dud, but as I would not like to rule out anything else such as a failed PKE module or pke antenna.
Also I believe my driver side door lock actuator has failed as the passenger one only works, but both switches work and connector is getting juice. I'm not sure if that could have an effect on the programming.
Thanks and sorry again for the novel for what may literally be just needing another new FOB.
EDIT: I have just found that the passenger side door being open will NOT signal the key-in chime, only the driver side will. (and the quest continues...)
Fast forward a year I purchased a new OEM FOB and have been attempting to program it for the last couple days.
I go through the procedure to get into program mode, and it starts off without any issues. The light first comes up solid, then when I turn the key into the off position, the light will start to blink. When I bring the fob into range the light will continue to blink until the cycle completes. I replaced the battery (tested voltage to make sure 3.22v) and it made no difference. Also during testing I shook around the remote, pressed buttons etc. no difference.
Ignition off and key left in signals chime sound every time, and door ajar sensors tested both working consistently. (I have now found only the driver side door will signal the chime, the passenger door will NOT)
Interior lighting will not dim when turning off, only shut off in one motion. I have heard that can be somehow tied to the PKE, but I am unsure if it is related to the issue.
Ran the PKE diagnostic (Pins 4 and 8) and only got error #13 for transmitter out of range.
Ran the full diagnostic mode (Pins 4 and 12) and got 1 code (H72) for module 1 (for my aftermarket Nav unit I believe) and none for Modules 4 and 9, I got a number of codes airbag module probably since i swapped steering wheels (C26, C61, C62, H26, H61, H62).
I also checked fuses #26, #40, and #42 (also ended up checking pretty much all the fuses in the passenger panel while I was at it) none of which were missing or blown.
So the summary of this essay would point to the new FOB was a dud, but as I would not like to rule out anything else such as a failed PKE module or pke antenna.
Also I believe my driver side door lock actuator has failed as the passenger one only works, but both switches work and connector is getting juice. I'm not sure if that could have an effect on the programming.
Thanks and sorry again for the novel for what may literally be just needing another new FOB.
EDIT: I have just found that the passenger side door being open will NOT signal the key-in chime, only the driver side will. (and the quest continues...)
Last edited by vman88888; 09-23-2017 at 09:57 PM.
#2
Instructor
Just curious, as I'll need to get on this soon as well, but did you happen to get yours off eBay?
I have the original fob which does work but the top clip that holds it together is broken so you have to press is closed before the battery can make contact. I'll keep it since the factory OEM ones have the plastic molded in clips that snap the halves together whereas the ones on eBay have two screws to do the job.
I have the original fob which does work but the top clip that holds it together is broken so you have to press is closed before the battery can make contact. I'll keep it since the factory OEM ones have the plastic molded in clips that snap the halves together whereas the ones on eBay have two screws to do the job.
#3
Dealer unable to program my new fob bought from them for a 96. Tried another dealer they can't either. The second dealer asked me to take it over to Radio ***** close by. Called them and apparently they can't either.
Any suggestions are appreciated.
Any suggestions are appreciated.
#4
So the summary of this essay would point to the new FOB was a dud, but as I would not like to rule out anything else such as a failed PKE module or pke antenna.
Also I believe my driver side door lock actuator has failed as the passenger one only works, but both switches work and connector is getting juice. I'm not sure if that could have an effect on the programming.
Thanks and sorry again for the novel for what may literally be just needing another new FOB.
EDIT: I have just found that the passenger side door being open will NOT signal the key-in chime, only the driver side will. (and the quest continues...)
Judging from the DTCs etc it seems you might have the FSM for your car. Do you? It might require a very thorough read of UTD as well as PKE and CCM.
Last edited by WVZR-1; 09-24-2017 at 09:11 AM.
#5
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Just curious, as I'll need to get on this soon as well, but did you happen to get yours off eBay?
I have the original fob which does work but the top clip that holds it together is broken so you have to press is closed before the battery can make contact. I'll keep it since the factory OEM ones have the plastic molded in clips that snap the halves together whereas the ones on eBay have two screws to do the job.
I have the original fob which does work but the top clip that holds it together is broken so you have to press is closed before the battery can make contact. I'll keep it since the factory OEM ones have the plastic molded in clips that snap the halves together whereas the ones on eBay have two screws to do the job.
When the FOB arrived in GM packaging I guess I didn't think twice about it, unfortunately for me, the return policy date has lapsed so that's $100 ill never see again.
#6
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IDK BUT ... I'd think actuator operation required. I've never owned a '93+ car with PKE. CHIME operation for passenger door open maybe someone will confirm for '93+ but I doubt if it should.
Judging from the DTCs etc it seems you might have the FSM for your car. Do you? It might require a very thorough read of UTD as well as PKE and CCM.
Judging from the DTCs etc it seems you might have the FSM for your car. Do you? It might require a very thorough read of UTD as well as PKE and CCM.
I guess i'm paying the price in frustration credits currently.
If the passenger door isn't supposed to cause key-in chime, then that would solve another piece of the puzzle for sure. And point me closer to the FOB itself needing replacement.
#7
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Also does anyone know how I could test the PKE radio transmitters? I heard it is less common for them to fail, but at this point I don't want to write anything off.
I found the one antenna inside the driver door, but I can't seem to find the 2nd one in the back. Any ideas? Car is a coupe hatchback so I'm pretty sure there's supposed to be one there.
I found the one antenna inside the driver door, but I can't seem to find the 2nd one in the back. Any ideas? Car is a coupe hatchback so I'm pretty sure there's supposed to be one there.
#8
Also does anyone know how I could test the PKE radio transmitters? I heard it is less common for them to fail, but at this point I don't want to write anything off.
I found the one antenna inside the driver door, but I can't seem to find the 2nd one in the back. Any ideas? Car is a coupe hatchback so I'm pretty sure there's supposed to be one there.
I found the one antenna inside the driver door, but I can't seem to find the 2nd one in the back. Any ideas? Car is a coupe hatchback so I'm pretty sure there's supposed to be one there.
On a side note...when I programmed mine it didn't go according to the manual. I didn't get the lights I was expecting but it still programmed and operates according to the manual. At one point during the programming, the PKE stopped responding at all. Eventually, it accepted the fob and has performed flawlessly for months now.
My fob case is broken so I electric taped a band around it and I just carry it in my pocket. I wish it was a simple push-button system. If the car started without a key then it would make more sense. As it is I have to pull out the keys to start the car so I might as well push a button on the fob instead of the overcomplicated system Chevrolet employed.
Make sure when you are trying to program that you hear the bearings inside the fob rattle around. Sometimes it takes an extra shake to get my fob to power up.
#9
Melting Slicks
First off the car is a 95 6spd LT1, when I bought it the PO said he didn't have any keyfobs.
Fast forward a year I purchased a new OEM FOB and have been attempting to program it for the last couple days.
I go through the procedure to get into program mode, and it starts off without any issues. The light first comes up solid, then when I turn the key into the off position, the light will start to blink. When I bring the fob into range the light will continue to blink until the cycle completes. I replaced the battery (tested voltage to make sure 3.22v) and it made no difference. Also during testing I shook around the remote, pressed buttons etc. no difference.
Ignition off and key left in signals chime sound every time, and door ajar sensors tested both working consistently. (I have now found only the driver side door will signal the chime, the passenger door will NOT)
Interior lighting will not dim when turning off, only shut off in one motion. I have heard that can be somehow tied to the PKE, but I am unsure if it is related to the issue.
Ran the PKE diagnostic (Pins 4 and 8) and only got error #13 for transmitter out of range.
Ran the full diagnostic mode (Pins 4 and 12) and got 1 code (H72) for module 1 (for my aftermarket Nav unit I believe) and none for Modules 4 and 9, I got a number of codes airbag module probably since i swapped steering wheels (C26, C61, C62, H26, H61, H62).
I also checked fuses #26, #40, and #42 (also ended up checking pretty much all the fuses in the passenger panel while I was at it) none of which were missing or blown.
So the summary of this essay would point to the new FOB was a dud, but as I would not like to rule out anything else such as a failed PKE module or pke antenna.
Also I believe my driver side door lock actuator has failed as the passenger one only works, but both switches work and connector is getting juice. I'm not sure if that could have an effect on the programming.
Thanks and sorry again for the novel for what may literally be just needing another new FOB.
EDIT: I have just found that the passenger side door being open will NOT signal the key-in chime, only the driver side will. (and the quest continues...)
Fast forward a year I purchased a new OEM FOB and have been attempting to program it for the last couple days.
I go through the procedure to get into program mode, and it starts off without any issues. The light first comes up solid, then when I turn the key into the off position, the light will start to blink. When I bring the fob into range the light will continue to blink until the cycle completes. I replaced the battery (tested voltage to make sure 3.22v) and it made no difference. Also during testing I shook around the remote, pressed buttons etc. no difference.
Ignition off and key left in signals chime sound every time, and door ajar sensors tested both working consistently. (I have now found only the driver side door will signal the chime, the passenger door will NOT)
Interior lighting will not dim when turning off, only shut off in one motion. I have heard that can be somehow tied to the PKE, but I am unsure if it is related to the issue.
Ran the PKE diagnostic (Pins 4 and 8) and only got error #13 for transmitter out of range.
Ran the full diagnostic mode (Pins 4 and 12) and got 1 code (H72) for module 1 (for my aftermarket Nav unit I believe) and none for Modules 4 and 9, I got a number of codes airbag module probably since i swapped steering wheels (C26, C61, C62, H26, H61, H62).
I also checked fuses #26, #40, and #42 (also ended up checking pretty much all the fuses in the passenger panel while I was at it) none of which were missing or blown.
So the summary of this essay would point to the new FOB was a dud, but as I would not like to rule out anything else such as a failed PKE module or pke antenna.
Also I believe my driver side door lock actuator has failed as the passenger one only works, but both switches work and connector is getting juice. I'm not sure if that could have an effect on the programming.
Thanks and sorry again for the novel for what may literally be just needing another new FOB.
EDIT: I have just found that the passenger side door being open will NOT signal the key-in chime, only the driver side will. (and the quest continues...)
Also, there is no PKE radio transmitter, except for the fob of course. The fob transmits, the PKE module is a receiver only.
Last edited by markKlein; 09-24-2017 at 05:35 PM.
#10
Melting Slicks
Here is a list of questions and possible problems from a previous post (see the entry at 7:15): https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ess-entry.html
As for the fob I would try to get my money back, since the dealer was unable to make the part they sold you work. Worth a try anyway.
#11
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So I ended up ordering a new fob and door lock actuator. I received the actuator today and tested to find it wont work. I checked the connector with a volt meter and when the switch is flipped, the meter tells me it is getting juice. Is there something else that could be getting in the way of this working? I would think since the connector is getting power, the motor should work, but not even a click or anything.
Should be getting the fob tomorrow, will give that a try and report back
Thanks
Should be getting the fob tomorrow, will give that a try and report back
Thanks
#12
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So the new fob came in and I was able to program it correctly! The signal is weak though so I have a new battery ordered. Also ended up wiring the driver door actuator over to the passenger side so the remote button now locks/unlocks both doors as well.
Now just the interior lights come on when I am in range so Ill figure that out next.
Thanks to everyone for their help!!
Now just the interior lights come on when I am in range so Ill figure that out next.
Thanks to everyone for their help!!
#13
Melting Slicks
So the new fob came in and I was able to program it correctly! The signal is weak though so I have a new battery ordered. Also ended up wiring the driver door actuator over to the passenger side so the remote button now locks/unlocks both doors as well.
Now just the interior lights come on when I am in range so Ill figure that out next.
Thanks to everyone for their help!!
Now just the interior lights come on when I am in range so Ill figure that out next.
Thanks to everyone for their help!!
#14
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Yeah my mistake on that
Funny enough I found out it actually will lock If i hold it for a couple seconds, but obviously the pke will sense the remote and unlock them right away lol.
But when I walk out out of range they seem to lock consistently.
In the end the results are such that I can live with considering when I started nothing seemed to work haha.
Thanks again!
Funny enough I found out it actually will lock If i hold it for a couple seconds, but obviously the pke will sense the remote and unlock them right away lol.
But when I walk out out of range they seem to lock consistently.
In the end the results are such that I can live with considering when I started nothing seemed to work haha.
Thanks again!
#15
Melting Slicks
Yeah my mistake on that
Funny enough I found out it actually will lock If i hold it for a couple seconds, but obviously the pke will sense the remote and unlock them right away lol.
But when I walk out out of range they seem to lock consistently.
In the end the results are such that I can live with considering when I started nothing seemed to work haha.
Thanks again!
Funny enough I found out it actually will lock If i hold it for a couple seconds, but obviously the pke will sense the remote and unlock them right away lol.
But when I walk out out of range they seem to lock consistently.
In the end the results are such that I can live with considering when I started nothing seemed to work haha.
Thanks again!
Last edited by markKlein; 10-04-2017 at 12:10 PM.
#17
Race Director
When you hear it locking after holding the button a few seconds that is actually just feedback that the system is turning itself on and off. (This is in the owners manual). Holding the door button down for a few seconds turns the passive system off (or on if it was already off), allowing you to gas up or work around the car without having it lock and unlock every five seconds as you walk back and forth.
I leave my system in the "off" mode most of the time.
The only time I turn it on, is if I am going to be parked out of sight of the car.