Youmadbro

When i usually drive my 08 corvette it never get hotter than 205. Now when I'm idle or sitting in traffic my temp goes up to 225 pretty fast. When i start driving it drop to 205. Does anyone have an idea why this is? I just replace the thermostat, aintfreeze is full and check the radiator. Nothing help

Oh Boy

Did you do these things because your car was running a little hot or did this start happening after you did this. If it was after and you have the proper amount of antifreeze in you could possibly have air in the system.

Dcasole

Are you sure of what temps it ran before you did the work ... Before I changed my thermostat and changed my fan settings my car always ran at 205and regularly went to 230 in traffic ...

the reason why I as is we tend to look at stuff like this after we do work on the car to make sure everything is ok .....

as long as you filled everything up correctly I think its normal

Dave

Youmadbro

I did all those things because it was running hot but I could check out the antifreeze. How would find the air in the system?

Youmadbro

I also watch my coolant temp 205 is the highest it ever got to I'm traffic and hot day

Welker1

Like a lot of us here, I'm a constant gauge watcher. Mine usually runs between 200-205 while cruising & I'll see it rise a few degrees while stopped at a light or in traffic; on really hot (triple digit) days, I've seen mine get as high as 220-230. As soon as I start moving again, it drops right back down. My other vehicles do basically the same thing, I think it's pretty normal

NY09C6

If it’s very hot 100+ outside 220 stopped in traffic can be normal. My car will come down to the 193-195 Range at speed though even on very hot days.

Dcasole

Check to make sure you dont have dirt and the like jammed up agaist the front of the raditor but like I said , that is normal temps and nothing to worry about ....

The only way you will get it to run cooler is a 160 thermostat, add water wetter and adjust for fans to come on sooner and faster ( but never set to over 90% as that will melt the connector ) .

My car now runs at 195 and in traffic 200 , 205 - 207 in heavy traffic ....

Dave

Eritosthenes

Disregard for a moment the possibility that the bottom of your radiator may be clogged with bits of leaves, tiny rocks, twigs, dried mud, etc. That's a very common problem for many C6s....

A C6 needs its fan, fan control module, and wiring harness all in good condition when driving below 40mph. Above that speed there is enough air flow thru the radiator to keep coolant temps in the 190-200 range. In slower stop-and-go driving around town the fan is needed to pull enough air thru the radiator. If a fan control module fails, or the fan motor itself starts to fail, the current draw thru the wiring harness may cause its PVC insulation to melt leading to a short circuit. Fans are fairly cheap, but a replacement fan control module costs about $300.

Turbo6TA

Over time, the air will work it's way out of the cooling system.

You will know when the air is getting out of the system because the coolant level will go down in your coolant reservoir tank.

When the tank gets low on coolant, just take the plastic cap off and add a 50 / 50 mix of coolant / water (or just water if you like)

Keep doing this until the coolant level don't go down anymore.

BlindSpot

Couple of things for the sake of accuracy as we ask a lot of members to search these threads for information (why, I'll never know).

If/when the connector melts, it normally creates a very high resistance circuit and eventually an open. The fan draw is over 40 amps at times, but GM specs a 60 amp fuse, so where normal protection would occur with a 40 amp fuse, it would be blowing a lot, but at least protecting the wiring which is also underspecced (a clasic GM cost savings tactic going back decades)

The draw gets higher BC the radiator collects debris over time which causes the fan to run longer. Many have burned through the connector with no fan speed/temp intervention in the tune, just the factory spec, and it's because of the debris and usually combined with high ambient airs temps (summertime in the S&SW)

The fan control module is in the range of $120 to $190 (same OEM brand)

Even one of the ridiculously high GM parts houses is $185 with crazy $12.34 ship, puts it under $200. I couldn't find one at $300, but wouldn't be surprised there is a dealer out there somewhere gouging at that price.