Why does my Hurst shifter rattle??
#1
Why does my Hurst shifter rattle??
Any way to stop the noise. My stock shifter started to rattle so I "upgraded" to a Hurst short throw and this one is even worse with the rattling. Works great but sounds terrible.
#2
Instructor
What **** are you using? I had a white hurst ball , and that sucker rattled and drove me nuts!
I have changed to a composite heavy weight ball, no more noise......
I have changed to a composite heavy weight ball, no more noise......
#3
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Jan 2014
Location: Rio Rancho, New Mexico
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C6 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
I installed a few pieces of heat guard and sound insulation around the torque tube when I installed my MGW. Definitely worth a shot. It was more quiet than the stock unit.
#4
Race Director
Member Since: May 2003
Location: Iowa
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St. Jude Donor '03-'04-'05-'06-'07-'08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16'-'17-‘18-'19-'20-'21-'22-
'23-'24
#5
Team Owner
I have an '01 C-5, purchased new, in July of 2001. In the spring of 2002, when I pulled the car out of "hibernation", I installed a Hurst shifter, topped with a Kirban, polished aluminum shift ball. It's been as quiet as a mouse, for the last 16 years..........
#6
Racer
I had a NASTY rattle in my Breathless performance shifter and when I tore it apart I found that the "T" or cross that dropped down and seated on the lateral return springs was significantly thinner than the gap that it resided in.
Best way I can show it is with an old pic where the shifter drops straight down into the hole and there's the 2 cuts to the left and right.
Attachment 48355981
That horizontal shaft was small, so when the car was at about 3,500+ rpms there was a harmonic vibration that caused the shifter to actually rotate on its axis unless I held the shift ball. That rotation and the gap between the shifter shaft and the female cuts in the bottom piece caused it to just ratchet metal on metal. It was aggravating as all hell and I ended up going with a C6 shifter. I may go back to it if I can shim it up a little or something and eat the majority of the rattle.
Best way I can show it is with an old pic where the shifter drops straight down into the hole and there's the 2 cuts to the left and right.
Attachment 48355981
That horizontal shaft was small, so when the car was at about 3,500+ rpms there was a harmonic vibration that caused the shifter to actually rotate on its axis unless I held the shift ball. That rotation and the gap between the shifter shaft and the female cuts in the bottom piece caused it to just ratchet metal on metal. It was aggravating as all hell and I ended up going with a C6 shifter. I may go back to it if I can shim it up a little or something and eat the majority of the rattle.
Last edited by Acid666; 10-18-2017 at 05:43 PM.
#7
Racer
Have you tried changing the bushings on the lower housing for the shifter? Mine would make a ton of racket unless you put your hand on the shifter when running it through the gears. Zip sells a set of poly-urethane ones that work well. Also had a **** that rattled badly, turned out to be the **** was vibrating on the threaded insert, fixed it by turning it upside down and running super glue down into it till it was solid.
#8
Le Mans Master
Have you tried changing the bushings on the lower housing for the shifter? Mine would make a ton of racket unless you put your hand on the shifter when running it through the gears. Zip sells a set of poly-urethane ones that work well. Also had a **** that rattled badly, turned out to be the **** was vibrating on the threaded insert, fixed it by turning it upside down and running super glue down into it till it was solid.