[C2] inspect throw out bearing
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
inspect throw out bearing
I have some strange noise coming out tof the throw out bearing area when starting from cold. Disappears after 1/2 mile or so. Is there a way I can inspect the bearing area without taking out everything? Seems unscrewing the bell housing dust shield is feasible (eventually after taking out the starter motor), but I may be wrong. Ideas?
#2
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Nov 2015
Location: Really Central IL Illinois
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If this is on your 64 and it has an aluminum bell housing, there is little chance of seeing the TO bearing without an inspection camera. Maybe you can see it thru the clutch fork slot if you can remove the boot and use a mirror.
Normally, the clutch fork should be adjusted to hold the TO bearing back off of the pressure plate when the clutch is engaged, so it should not be touching the PP for 1/2 mile or so. Have you tried adjusting the clutch to get 1 to 1-1/2" of free play? There was a tread on clutch adjustment here recently.
Normally, the clutch fork should be adjusted to hold the TO bearing back off of the pressure plate when the clutch is engaged, so it should not be touching the PP for 1/2 mile or so. Have you tried adjusting the clutch to get 1 to 1-1/2" of free play? There was a tread on clutch adjustment here recently.
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alexandervdr (10-19-2017)
#3
Race Director
I have some strange noise coming out tof the throw out bearing area when starting from cold. Disappears after 1/2 mile or so. Is there a way I can inspect the bearing area without taking out everything? Seems unscrewing the bell housing dust shield is feasible (eventually after taking out the starter motor), but I may be wrong. Ideas?
If it makes any noise with the clutch released it might be your pilot bushing (or did you use a bearing?) or possibly there's no free play in your clutch adjustment and the TO bearing is riding on the clutch fingers and spinning.
I would drive it a while and see if the noise gets worse or maybe it will work it's way out. I would check that you have some free play at the top of the pedal. If it continues to make noise or gets worse the transmission will have to come out since you can't really do anything except replace them.
Last edited by DansYellow66; 10-19-2017 at 08:19 AM.
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alexandervdr (10-19-2017)
#4
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Yes, the noise is when I depress the clutch when I drive off. With adjusting the clutch, do you mean making sure there is some pedal free play before the bearing touches the plate. (to be adjusted on the top end of the Z-bar)?
The pilot bearing is new and bronze. I did center the gearbox to the bearing.
The pilot bearing is new and bronze. I did center the gearbox to the bearing.
#5
Race Director
Yes, the noise is when I depress the clutch when I drive off. With adjusting the clutch, do you mean making sure there is some pedal free play before the bearing touches the plate. (to be adjusted on the top end of the Z-bar)?
Yes - that's correct.
The pilot bearing is new and bronze. I did center the gearbox to the bearing.
Sounds like it is the TO bearing most likely. I would still drive it awhile and hope it's something that fixes itself. (yeah, I know - how often does that happen?) Do you know who manufactured the TO bearing?
Yes - that's correct.
The pilot bearing is new and bronze. I did center the gearbox to the bearing.
Sounds like it is the TO bearing most likely. I would still drive it awhile and hope it's something that fixes itself. (yeah, I know - how often does that happen?) Do you know who manufactured the TO bearing?
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alexandervdr (10-20-2017)
#6
Team Owner
Member Since: Mar 2003
Location: Greenville, Indiana
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Why don't you take a pill and relax. You seem to be eaten up with the "fizidities"
When it falls out in the driveway, you'll know you have a problem.
When it falls out in the driveway, you'll know you have a problem.
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alexandervdr (10-20-2017)
#7
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Yes, the noise is when I depress the clutch when I drive off. With adjusting the clutch, do you mean making sure there is some pedal free play before the bearing touches the plate. (to be adjusted on the top end of the Z-bar)?
The pilot bearing is new and bronze. I did center the gearbox to the bearing.
The pilot bearing is new and bronze. I did center the gearbox to the bearing.
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alexandervdr (10-20-2017)
#8
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
#9
Race Director
I've have a theory I've never had the bad fortune to explore - which is if a transmission can simply be moved far enough to the rear without removing completely, to allow access to replace the TO bearing. I envisioned replacing the transmission bolts with 4 - long pieces of all-thread, support the engine, pull driveshaft, shifter, & mount and slide the transmission on the all-thread as far to the rear as possible. The unknown is can the transmission be slid far enough to the rear to get the pilot shaft out of the bearing and to be able to remove & replace it. It seems like it should work but unsure. I can slide mine far enough back to get the input within an inch of clearing the bell housing - and then I have to drop the rear of the engine. But that would seem enough to get to the TO bearing. Getting the transmission down and back up in place is the worst part of doing transmission work for me.
Last edited by DansYellow66; 10-20-2017 at 08:38 AM.
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alexandervdr (10-20-2017)
#10
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
so I did go in there, took out the starter motor, and through the opening in the dust shield I could go in with an endoscope. What I did see is that the fork is still in correctly (spring clips) and that the movement of the bearing is smooth. Can not check if it is slipping on the fingers with clutch out, but I assume it does not cause I only get the noise when I start pushing in the pedal.
So I am left with the option that the ball bearing inside is shot (although it's a new throw out, done 3000-4000 miles or so). Or something else? Still bizar that the noise goes away within a couple of hundreds yards of driving.
So I am left with the option that the ball bearing inside is shot (although it's a new throw out, done 3000-4000 miles or so). Or something else? Still bizar that the noise goes away within a couple of hundreds yards of driving.
Last edited by alexandervdr; 10-20-2017 at 09:50 AM.
#11
Race Director
It's probably the ball bearing/race assembly. Pretty hard to trouble shoot something in it's early, intermittent stages like that. You probably wouldn't even notice any roughness in turning it by hand at this stage - only later.
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alexandervdr (10-20-2017)
#12
Le Mans Master
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alexandervdr (10-20-2017)
#13
Safety Car
I've have a theory I've never had the bad fortune to explore - which is if a transmission can simply be moved far enough to the rear without removing completely, to allow access to replace the TO bearing. I envisioned replacing the transmission bolts with 4 - long pieces of all-thread, support the engine, pull driveshaft, shifter, & mount and slide the transmission on the all-thread as far to the rear as possible. The unknown is can the transmission be slid far enough to the rear to get the pilot shaft out of the bearing and to be able to remove & replace it. It seems like it should work but unsure. I can slide mine far enough back to get the input within an inch of clearing the bell housing - and then I have to drop the rear of the engine. But that would seem enough to get to the TO bearing. Getting the transmission down and back up in place is the worst part of doing transmission work for me.
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alexandervdr (10-20-2017)
#14
Drifting
Soon after starting a trip, this spring, I started getting exactly what you describe. Doesn't do it 100% of the time but when it does it is in the morning when it is cold or after sitting for 5 or 6 hours. I hear it when letting the clutch out, a fairly good growl. I have driven it this way for the entire trip, around 25,000 miles, and it hasn't gotten any worse, or better. I will probably address it this winter. As others have said, when it's bad enough to address, you will know it. If you are just driving local, there is not much down side to waiting to see what happens.
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alexandervdr (10-20-2017)
#15
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
#16
Race Director
It's hard to tell the quality of one versus another. I last used a McLeod TO bearing as I generally like their products. It's also a bit pricey. But is it better - I don't know? I would just stay away from the plastic ones.
#17
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
any reference at hand to the specific McLeod TO used?
#18
Race Director
I will check when I get home. I believe I ordered it from Summit.
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alexandervdr (01-17-2018)
#19
throw out bearing
I drove my 1960 for years with an occasional growl when I depressed the clutch. I had the bearing replaced twice and kept having the same problem.I pulled the tranny last year and discovered that the shop put the bearing in wrong. Instead of the tabs of the fork being put into the bearing groove, the tabs were outside the bearing groove. This made the bearing push the clutch arms on an angle. It's worth checking if you pull the bearing. PS. I heard they make a new bearing that you can't put in wrong. Wish they had them years ago!
#20
Race Director
Alex - here is what I purchased for my TO bearing.
https://www.summitracing.com/search?...Mcleod%2016010
I'm sure there are other good TO Bearing options out there but I've had good luck with McLeod products.
https://www.summitracing.com/search?...Mcleod%2016010
I'm sure there are other good TO Bearing options out there but I've had good luck with McLeod products.
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alexandervdr (01-18-2018)