65tripleblack

Ideas developed from experience only.

No guesses.

Funny comments are OK although I won't like you very much if you poke fun at me. I have a sense of humor (or, "humour" if Canadian, Australian, English or vestigal British Empire which includes India, New Zealand, portions of The Levant formally known as Palestine, Falkland Islands, Pitcairn Island, British Guiana, Trinidad and Tobago, Swaziland, Basutoland, Afghanistan, Burma [Myanmar], Scotland and possibly Ireland although Ireland has always been ridiculously nationalistic and loathe to take on any of the trappings of anything British, unlike the Scots and Welsh, who are much more civilized and never had to revert to a drunken cavalcade up and down 5th Avenue NYC which is the spectacle known as the Saint Paddy's Day Parrrrrrr Purrrrrrup Burrrrrpp.................sorry......... .....RRRRRRuuuuppp...Parrade......aye, Johnny, get me another pint o Guinness and a kwart o Jamison)

DansYellow66

I've been out cleaning gutters so humor is at a low ebb. I gave up on a crank scraper in my BB for that reason (drip, drip). I don't think it's possible to seal up tight around one on a chevy oil pan.

Pop Chevy

I've always used em on my racecars. I just put a skim coat of sealer on both sides. If set up right they are worth some HP.

PAmotorman

without a "kick out " pan you will not gain much and even make windage worse. the scraped off oil needs a place to get captured to keep it off of the rotating assy

PAmotorman

this is a good setup as the scraped off oil can not be thrown back on to the rotating assy. when I was building 2 liter 4 cyl cavalier engines for racing I built a tray scraper like this and coated it with Teflon so the oil would flow off easy

DansYellow66

My GTX has a windage tray that has a full flange that runs completely around the oil pan and is sandwiched between two gaskets. It doesn't leak. Unfortunately I don't know how you would do that with a chevy oil pan due to the crank and block configuration.

65tripleblack

Took me awhile to set up and been on there for 10 years. Hate to lose it. Have isolated the persistent oil leak past ten years to the RS of the pan.

Clem.............isn't the kick out more important for circle tracks or NASCAR because of the constant left hand turns, the kickout keeps the oil on the right side of the pan in that situation.

I use the original type flat tray used in 1965 SHP engines. Not the later, better one. Also use the SHP "6 quart" oil pan with baffle doors.

I'm thinking of adding a piece of sheet metal to complete the entire right side pan rail, in the expectation that the elimination of the step alongside the scraper will help.

I pinned the scraper in place before bolting down using small flat head machine screws which locate it positively. Also use Permatex FormA Gasket under the scraper with a one piece FelPro blue sandwich gasket to seal the pan.

Is there a way to find the leak point before taking it down. If I can find the leak point, I can attack it directly without much unnecessary fabrication and screwing around. Someone suggested pressurizing the crankcase thru the dipstick tube and using soapy water. Anybody ever done this?

PAmotorman

the kick out on a circle track pan is on the bottom of the pan to keep the oil around the pickup in left turns. the kick out on a scraper pan is starts at the top of the pan so the scraped off oil has a place to go instead of just splashing back on the rotating assy. here is a explanation of the side kick out. he explains this on the second pan the third pan show a bigger one but he does not explain

PAmotorman

use this to seal around the pan. just clean the area with brake cleaner and spry this all around the pan block interface. I have us it to seal split crank cases on mower engines that were leaking.https://www.ebay.com/i/112449229300?chn=ps&dispItem=1

65tripleblack

Thanks Clem. I'll try it. Everything is clean now but might not be able to get all the residual oil out from between the gasket and the pan without first dropping the pan.

Here's a strange thing: I called Permatex on this product which I wanted to use to seal a diff leak around a 3/4" drain plug I drilled/tapped (BTW: now sealed after I cleaned and applied something else). Anyway, the Permatex tech said that this stuff was crap. Told me not to use it! The advice sounded very strange to me..............especially coming from a Permatex employee! Coming from you, I take it that the stuff is good, and I'll try it.

Joe

PS: I just read the SDS sheet on it and I see that it's clear. GREAT!

PPS: Must be applied on a warm engine, so I'll have to use compressed air to blow any oil out from between the block/scraper/gasket/pan on the right rail before spraying on. 5 coats.

jerry gollnick

Instead of going thru all this why not just convert to dry sump system?

PAmotorman

did you sell your car or are you still racing ?? I saw a GM test on a NASCAR engine where a 14" deep dyno wet sump pan was good for 30+" HP over the NASCAR legal dry sump system

jerry gollnick

Just sold it. I have a wet sump system on the vintage racer, with windage tray and aviad road race pan and acusump. Never any oiling issues.

427Hotrod

Some of the issue may be the blue gasket. I don't think it will conform as well. Some have built in spacers to keep from over tightening and would go solid on the scraper. I alulways used cork or the black ones with a scraper. I use the blue ones otherwise.

The "Right Stuff" from Permatex will seal for sure.

Jim

65tripleblack

Thanks Jim. I'll try the spray sealant first since it's easy. If that doesn't work then off comes the pan.

The Right Stuff all around with no gasket, right? The right stuff under the scraper as well, right?

cardo0

Have you looked at Crank Scrapes .con? http://www.crank-scrapers.com/Chevrolet_SBC.html

They advertise sectioned O/P gaskets to fit-up scrapers. Sorry I haven't tried one of thiers yet but it's on my list for my next build. BTW they also will make custom scrapers from a template if you want that.

Hope this can help.

Westlotorn

I have sealed some real problems with the Right Stuff. I really like the way it works and holds. It is much stronger than silicone. Not fun to remove once is cures.
I found the tubes of The Right Stuff that work in a caulking gun work much better for me. The pressurized cans always seem to fail while you still have at least 40% material left in the can.