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Engine requirements
- Engine Mounts
- AC Brackets
- AC Compressor
- Power steering Brackets & Pulley
- Water pump modification
- Oil Pan
- Hot water piping
- Sensors
- Fuel requirements
Internal parts
Im starting with a 2005 VY LS1 with LS6 intake, DBC TB 92mm
Heads:I kept the stock 241 heads. Amt: I did not have the funds to upgrade to 243 or 853 heads which flow better. Maybe 15+ more HP
Lifters: LS7 Notes: They replace the LS1 as a upgraded stronger stock unit
Lifter Trays: LS2 Notes: They replace the LS1 stock unit
Push rods: I didnt replace and kept stock.
Rockers: Straub Technologies Trunion Upgrade Kit with new bolts Notes: I read mainly threads of Comp Cam failures so i avoided them. The stock ones can fail easy, leaving needle bearings in the engine, cause rattle and noises.
Springs: PAC 1219x Notes: These allow for a aftermarket cam upto .625 lift.
A slightly cheaper option would be PAC 1218 which allow for .600 lift.
But i wanted a set above my cam which was at .600 lift. Stock replacement upgrade: LS2 springs Notes: I have not looked into if the LS2 are stronger than LS1 springs.
Valve guide seals: PEP 313500 Viton Valve Seals Notes: .313" X .500" Set of 16. For the price and if your doing heads its silly not to.
Block:
Timing Chain: LS2 timing chain
Cam: WS6 Store 218/227 .600/.600 112+2 LSA Notes: Should be around 60-90HP gain.
Best one for economy, good lumpy sound performance.
Oil Barbell: Stock oil barbell. Notes: I was not convinced its worth going to a metal one.
But the stock one should be replaced for a new one.
Seals and gaskets that should be replaced
Rear Main Oil Seal
Rear main Oil Gasket
Oil Pump Seal Kit - ill update later what it includes
Head Gasket Felpro 54442 MLS
Tools
Some specific tools needed
Compcam trunion install tool
LS1 Spring removal tool
Finally i am back into the build. I will include the tear down process, adding tools needed, bolt sizes, tips etc
First some updated pics of the engine
I will also add how many bolts as well as the size later. But i wont go into bolt length or pitch...
Pics are in order i took parts off
Drivers side valve covers off
Passenger side valve covers off
Water pump bolts are 10mm Pulley is 13mm As you can see the water pipe fittings are removed. I sprayed WD40 around to loosen, headed the housing, used really good vice grips to turn the fittings and then a hammer on each side to loosen. Was a PITA.
Rockers come off first. Will update what size bolt
Head bolts 15mm There is a specific pattern to undo these. Ill upload a pic soon
Valley cover bolts 13mm Smaller head bolts 10mm
Knock sensors 23mm deep socket. Before you undo all the way rattle the socket off the sensor and then continue removing. Otherwise can get wedged on and harder to remove once off engine
Heads off ! Bores are in great condition. Still can see the cross hatching, no scoring, pitting etc.
$35 Spring removal tool off ebay. Thread the rod all the way till it bottoms out then unscrew a full rotation. Add the supplied washer then do the nut just a little snug.
The plate then goes on and then another washer and the 2nd nut. As you tighten make sure the U part of the plate is clearing the retainer keepers.
Tighten so the spring is half compressed. Does not need to be full compressed. Tip the head away from you so it lifts up. hold a rag over the spring. Gently tap with a rubber mallet or rubber end of hammer on the valve so you get it flush with the seat. The other end of the valve will push through the 2 keepers out (into the rag). You can then sit the head back down. I used a magnetic rod to pull the 2 halves of the keepers if they didnt pop out into the rag. Then you undo the top nut and repeat.
Tip: undo the nut enough so spring is un-spung, and the plate is loose, then undo the bottom nut so you can undo the rod with your fingers. This saves you having to take the nut all the way off the rod each time. Then you can just thread the rod into next hole and nip the nut up on the bottom and then the top.
To get balancer off pre soak the shaft as much as you can get to it. Around the bolt also. Nut is 24mm. Use a shallow use socket
If you have engine in car you put trans in gear. If you have flywheel on you can use a tool to stop it spinning. If you are tearing engine down, use a wooden or rubber hammer handle to stop the crank from turning. I ended up using two. One on each side to spread the load.
Once the balancer bolt was removed i reinstalled it. I drilled a small notch / dent into centre of the bolt. This helps centre the puller. You must replace the bolt anyway.. I then back it out 10mm or so and attached the puller.
Use a hammer or similar method as you did before to get bolt off but now in opposite direction. As the balancer moves off the shaft and hits the bolt you will need to take puller off, undo the bolt another 10mm or as far as you can while balancer still reaches and repeat. Do this until the bolt can no longer be used to leverage the balancer off the shaft. Make sure you leave enough of the bolt in the thread so you dont strip it.
The balancer wont come off all the way so once you have got as far as you can with the puller and bolt, remove the bolt. You will need to coat the shaft in WD40 or similar and use a rubber mallet to hit the balancer from behind, turn the balancer after each hit so you are doing it in a N-S-E-W fashion. You will be able to pull it off at the end.
You might want to add cover alignment tools to your list. You will need them to get everything straight.
Yep, thanks.
I will provide info on how to make your own alignment tools.
The front cover doesnt need it, but i left my old seals in the covers while scrubbing clean with Kerosine. I dont know if that did it or it was already like it but the seals are hardened. I see no reason why i can leave these in and use them to centre the cover. Then use a pick to remove the seal after its all torqued down. Thoughts ?
The less spent on tools the better. Some are needed, others can be made.
Timing gear is easy. 3 bolts and it comes off. Will update later sizes
Notice the crank caps are labeled on the left corners 1 , 2, 3 and 4.
The 5th one is flipped on goes on the right side
When taking the crank caps off use help if you can. Each use the rubber end of a hammer in one hand while holding onto the cap with the other and leverage the cap off in a upwards movement. Hitting it forward and back and wiggling it off is not good
Unscrew the bolts first, take the cap off and place aside. Take care the bearing doesnt fall out and get damaged. You will want to inspect it later. Use the plastic end of a long screw driver and tap the rod while using help from someone to make sure the rod stays straight and doesnt fall and it the side of the bores as you tap it and the piston out. Put the cap on the way it come off and place them in order.
After like 3 hours of reading and searching for what to do re LS1 conrod bolts...
If you are going over 400-450HP or high RPM get new SCAT I beam rods. The cost of ARP 134-6006 rod bols, getting the rod resized, oversized bearings to compensate, machinist cost to check bolt has same stretch and is not our of round you are within same area of new rods ($300USD).
If you are staying around 400-450HP you can either
Reuse the LS1 rod bolts - if you need to replace one part # is 12568069 for genuine OE but the are superseded.
After all that reading, ONE place, ONE mention of someone in Australia who found LS3 rod bolts can be used. They are used in all LS engines bar LS7 and 9. If a LSA uses them then they are fine for my NA motor. GM11570662 - at $30 a set = WIN. No resizing needed !!!
Here is the tool to remove old bearings. The bottom section magnetically holds the rocker and is hollow, allowing the bushes and bearing to fall inside. 30 seconds it takes. The top part lines up with the bearing and presses it through and falls inside the rocker. Rocker fits in better one way as shown. Empty the bearing, pick out the top part and repeat
Here is the pile of bearings. When reinstalling you need a 5/16 socket. You sit the rocker in the tool like pic above, use the top part and put inside the rocker and push it up so thinner section is pushing out of the rocker. This is so the bearing can be centered as its pushed into the rocker. You will need to hold the bearing and top part in place as you are pressing it in. As you get is started you can move you finger and let the top part fall out the other side. Coat the brass bearing in thick oil (50/75+) before you press in, Make sure the edge of bearing is just flush with the surface of the rocker. As for the other side you now use the 5/16 socket. I will update how exactly as right now i cant picture how i did it again...
You also need circlip pliers. I need to buy a set to install the circlips.
Yep, thanks.
I will provide info on how to make your own alignment tools.
The front cover doesnt need it, but i left my old seals in the covers while scrubbing clean with Kerosine. I dont know if that did it or it was already like it but the seals are hardened. I see no reason why i can leave these in and use them to centre the cover. Then use a pick to remove the seal after its all torqued down. Thoughts ?
The less spent on tools the better. Some are needed, others can be made.
That may work, I have borrowed tools to do jobs. I just know that the alignment is critical for sealing.
Hi! Been Lurking for some time, thought I'd add some info that I have found, that may help solve a few fitment issues with "LS" installs. I found this by accident, while surfing for LS swap info. Holley makes accessory drives for LS swaps, and this particular setup caught my eye.....
https://www.holley.com/products/ls_p...s/parts/97-164
the water pump that they call for is the same as the one used on the "LS4" fwd LSX engines (Monte Carlo SS, Pontiac Grand Prix GXP, etc... it's like $55 on rock auto -vs. Holley's $80 price tag... the whole accessory bracket (alone in raw aluminum) is about $280 and keeps all the accessories in close to the block, leaving ample clearance on suspension and steering, it also features a coolant steam vent routing via a threaded hole in the backside of the bracket/housing, it also has two choices for routing heater hoses. this particular bracket/housing makes use of a "Sanden " a/c compressor, so custom hose fittings / hoses would need to be fabricated. the late model power steering pump would need a custom restrictor orifice to reduce the higher output pressure for the stock steering gear box.
I'm looking at buying a 1980 to 1982 C3 model to do an LS swap on, so I've been doing my home work and browsing other peoples builds. Hope this info helps anyone else looking to do one of these swaps.....
Ben Smith
Im still waiting for machining to be done. Was $1000 AUD all up to
Clean parts $150
Hone block $160
Thread water pump $50
Install and supply cam bearings $150
Valve job, install new valve seals, install springs and check tension $450
Mill heads 25 thou $50
I did find out with the viton valve stem seals i provided that i should have brought aftermarket seats at the same time as the stock ones are built in (look like a mushroom). SO now i must but seats, its actually cheaper to buy seals that come with seats so thats what i will do. Mike from WS6 store is hooking me up and also new retainers.
Here is my block back from being cleaned from engine machinist
Before this is forgotten install the oil barbell. Add a little running in oil to the o-ring which goes in last.
I got the cam bearings installed as i didnt have the tool for it. I have a 2004 LS1 but a later year model that required later model bearings. I will add model number later.
Add cam lube to the cam bearings before installing the cam
Use cam lube not engine assembly lube or oil for the cam. Install on the cam lobes that sit on the bearings only. This is so you can guide the cam in and not damage the cam bearings without smearing cam lube everywhere.
Once the cam is installed then use a brush and apply cam lube to the other cam lobes.
Install the crank bearings dry. No need to add anything to the underside of them. The middle one is the larger one. Make sure the oil holes line up correctly.
Now add engine assembly lube to the crank bearings and main caps
Carefully lower the crank into position.
Make sure the crank can spin before installing the main caps.
Tap the main caps down, hitting them with a rubber mallet from one side to another and then finally in the middle.
Apply forward pressure to the crankshaft as the main studs and bolts are hand tightened. Only use running in oil on these bolts. No loctite.
I installed the side main cap bolts with some copper sealant on the underside head of the bolts. I did them up hand tight before torquing the main studs and bolts.
If you have ARP assembly lube that could be used instead. No locktite on these bolts.
Follow the torque guide and then use a degree torque gauge with breaker bar to finish the job. Make sure the gauge alan key looking handle is resting against something or have someone help.
Mark the bolts as you tighten them so you know they are done. You cant check with torque gauge when using the degree indicator !\
Start from the middle and work your way out in a spiral pattern
Using a dial gauge check the end play of the crank.
Now to check the clearing of the piston rings.
Install a top compression ring (chrome moly one) and check the clearance. Mine was 0.39 thou
Install a 2nd compression ring (black one) and check clearance.Mine was 0.34 thou
I replaced the rod bolts with LS3 ( GM11570662 )
Use a old rod bolt to knock out the old bolt bearing. Place a socket under the cap , install old rod bolt and knock out the bearing.
Use some multigrips to remove the old bearing.
Pistons were cleaned along side the block and crank.
Here is a tip. REMOVE THE PISTON RINGS BEFORE YOU GET THE CLEANED.. As you guessed i forgot to and had to spend more time cleaning the ring seats.
The pistons came up really nice, pretty much new. I then used scotch guard to clean any other residue left.
These are gen 4 pistons with floating wrist pins. You can tell by the square cut of the rod cap and the circlip on the wrist pin of the rod.
Ring seats cleaned by hand (using a old thin oiler ring, degreaser and kerosine)
Check the rod can slid without effort side to side on the wrist pin. Also check the rod can spin on the wrist pin with it staying in one place.
If there is any resistance use some scotch guard to clean the wrist pin.
When installing the new rings use this guide.
Have the hole on the top of the piston facing forward
Top chrome moly ring (shiny silver one) is at 3pm position.
Bottom compression ring (black one) is at 9pm.
Oil spring ends meet in the middle of the left hand side piston skirt
Top oilier ring at 7pm
Bottom oilier ring at 11pm
Piston facing front
Compression rings at 3 and 9pm
oilier spring in middle of skirt (left hand side)
bottom oilier ring at 11pm
top oilier ring at 7pm
Apply engine assembly lube on the rod bearings.
Make sure the pistons are installed from same cylinder they came out of, and the dot on the piston are facing forward.
Use a ring compressor tool and leave an inch of the piston skirt so it can guide the piston into the cylinder.
Tap on the piston head with the rubber end of a hammer. Have someone watch and guide the rod through the bore as you tap it through.
Now install the matching rod cap and new rod bolts. Only running in oil is used, put on the threads and under the bolt head.
11-07-2017, 09:29 PM
LS1 Build Guide
