Joe Cro

Hey everyone,

I've posted a few times as a build the 1977 my dad left me. I'm wrapping up completing a frame off under my pole barn in the dirt mostly with the help of youtube videos. It's been a really fun couple of years.

To the problem-I have a one piece rear main 383 in place of my stock 350. My dipstick is on the passenger side rather than driver like my original. The bulge on the block/oil pan for the dipstick is hitting my starter and stopping me from getting the second bolt in/lined up. I rebuilt the factory starter.

I have searched all over for someone having this issue and have had no luck. I assume I need to get a new starter but I'm hoping someone has been in this position and knows what will fit or potentially save me from rebuilding my old one for nothing.

Thanks,
Joe

JoeMinnesota

Have you tried a later model starter specifically for a car with PS dipstick? I would assume that's your problem. There is obviously a starter offered that fits a block & pan with the PS dipstick, and that may be different than your original starter.

NeverTooOld

I seem to recall reading the starters for the one piece rear seal blocks are different from the earlier starters. Check with one of our vendors to be sure whether it'll work or not.

stumpshot

My Smeding 383 came with a Speedmaster PCE393.1002. Mine is a 1 pc rear main, new block, PS dipstick. Starter is smaller than the 350 starter.
Also, the dipstick and tube had to be changed out to a late model unit. Just checked and this number is a high-torque mini starter. $55 or so from on line suppliers. Hope this helps.
Roy

derekderek

Ok here is the issue. See the way this field housing necks down for the end 2 inches or so? You must have the old-style field housing like in the second pic. It stays fat much farther north.

carriljc

That's a bit odd. When I swapped to a one-piece rear main seal block I just swapped over my old starter and it fits just fine? If you need I can go under there tomorrow and take a picture for you.....just PM me.

C3w4sp

Did the exact same, no issue.

Joe Cro

The original starter is a pretty big beast and that bulge for the dipstick isn't there on my stock engine. I'm not sure what a PS dipstick is but I don't think the actual dipstick is the issue, it's the shaping of the block. I don't think my starter has as much of a diameter reduction as the one derekderek showed to clear it. My stock setup was 4-speed L-48, maybe that's where the difference lies?

I'm going to try to sell my stock starter and get the one Roy suggested hopefully it'll fit in and wire up without too much trouble. I might try to make some kind of heat shield too because it's pretty close to my headers.

derekderek

that pic is a 10MT full size starter on a 1 piece block. you can see the 1/4 inch gap to the dipstick boss on the block. and with the second older type field housing, it would hit that spot. I bet your starter housing is like the bottom pic. you can buy this type starter cheap 25 bucks or so at big chain parts stores. just make sure it has necked-down field housing. since not orig motor, you could also take a grinder and shave the block and that spot on the starter a bit. there is a lot of metel there on both.

stumpshot

Joe.
I intended to mean Passanger Side dipstick. I think the problem with my 350 dipstick was that the strokeer crank may habe clipped the dipstick. Not sure but Smedong said not to use it.
Roy

buns

Save some money and grab your die grinder. The lip on the oil pan was interfering with my passenger side dipstick engine's starter. I ground a bit of the pan and a bit off the starter.

carriljc

I bought a generic shield from Summit ages ago. I did not install it for years after I bought it - and when I did I had to modify it a little bit. Nothing terrible and once I modified it and tweaked it into place it actually shields from the headers quite well---- just a little wall and it seems to be quite effective when I place my hand down by the starter.

I'm glad I installed it. I never had a starter failure from the headers, but they are rather close to the starter.

cooper9811

The quick and cheap way out is to try the die grinder, if you don't mind doing that. If your starter is the older style with the larger body, you may be forced to buy a new starter.

If you go that route, I would look into going with a ministarter. It will give more clearance with the headers too. I've been using a Jeg's brand for something like 8 years.

Joe Cro

Do you know what the part number for the shield was?

Joe Cro

I'm going to try the mini starter and if it works ill sell my OEM. It looks like the mini is like $45 and my old one goes closer to $100 so that works for me.

derekderek

you can buy that full size starter for 30 bucks at auto parts stores, so I doubt you will get anything for yours. I just scrapped 10 of them. called a rebuilder cuz they used to pay 10 bucks for a good delco starter core. he couldn't remember last time he sold one.

carriljc

I'll take a look for starter heat shield part number. I keep most receipts but it's years and years of them. Let me see. If not then I'll look up what I "think" it was in Summit.

UPDATE: OK, found receipt. It was identified as follows (but I do not see it as available the on Summit website anymore):

SUM-G1370 HEAT SHIELD SS 16 GA.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1370

It is a single sheet of metal and I had to tweak and it and bend it a little bit to work with my headers. I am quite happy that it creates a separation between my starter and my headers.

derekderek

and those minis work good. weigh a lot less.