Stephen Irons

I’d hijacked another thread with this question, in simple terms. And, I had some very interesting and helpful comments. But, I thought only proper to start a new one and ask the question, with apologies to those who answered first time around!

I suspect that I’ll be having to change out the trailing arm bushes on the 1978. So, my question is, what are the pros and cons of using poly bushes?

I have them on the strut rods and they have been good for about 17 years. They were also much easier to fit, one of the reasons I’m considering poly for the T Arms.

But the thoughts of the experts please!

No doubt I’ll be back with more questions if I get that far – like how on earth do you get the old bushes out! But we’ll see!

63mako

I got a new set. Package has a small tear but it is new and everything is there. This exact set. I used these same ones on my 63 and have no issues. I bought a variety of suspension parts and ended up going with a suspension package so I have some extra stuff. https://www.vbandp.com/c3-corvette-p...ls-detail.html
$50 shipped. EDIT: see you live in France. $40 you cover shipping

resdoggie

The Energy Suspension do not require a flaring tool. The end cap collar just needs to be nudged into the sleeve with a a light clamping force using a vice as I said in the other thread. Some guys like me like the poly and others don't. Think about this - poly has been around many, many years and is used in industry and domestic use. If they were so bad, like the Edsel, you wouldn't be able to buy them as they would not be produced anymore. I too have poly bushings in my adjustable strut rods for over 20 years. Still good! So I went with poly everywhere else in the driveline mounts and suspension. I do not have or had any problems with them.

63mako

These come with a bolt and pointed nut that flairs the center tube. No special tools needed.

bazza77

And " Unlike rubber, poly bushings can be installed in your rear trailing arms without removing the arms from the car "


what an amazing kit !

revitup

You don't have to worry about having weight on wheels to torque them up.
I went with poly just because I never wanted to do that job again. I hope that's the case but I've read about some having problem with poly, as in them disintegrating. I'm not sorry I did, mine are fine. I think that if I were to do bushings again though, I'd do rubber from a trusted vendor. If I wasn't planning on doing any racing of course.

The13Bats

I am not an expert on this by a long shot and had to research it more when my rebuilt chassis had all poly from vbp, called a lot of real suspenion people,

Normally a thread like this has someone make their valid point that a corvette trailing arm doesnt just move up and down but has twist and poly is no good for that, too hard,

That twist would equal a change in camber perhapa toe and thats undesirable too, trade offs?

Some racers go roller bearings,
Costly, overkill for street,

In my case i have poly, and not the least bit concerned as my car is just a street cruiser,
If i ever need to replace them it will be with poly,
Rubber just doesnt have a good lifespan for me,

Faster Rat

Here is a con

Stephen Irons

First off, thanks for all the input!

Second, I should apologise to those who replied to me in the other post (re bushing source0 as my post here implies they were not "experts"! That wasn't what I meant at all I was talking about the wider Forum community being "experts". So, hope I haven't offended anyone!

Thirdly, 63mako - Thanks. I may well be in touch! I'm doing all the "research" before I get "into" the car and things are conspiring against me a bit here at the moment, which is delaying me no end!

Metalhead140

I have Energy Suspension poly in mine. I've done about 14,000 miles since I put them in 2 years ago, no complaints.

Wee

Rubber for me....As to the question about getting the olds ones out.....A little heat and then a screw driver between the lip and the trailing arm to pry them out. Make sure to take the guts out first. I guess you could also grind the lip off but be careful not to grind the trailing arm.

Brian

Dennis Tapp

For the ones reading this that use the stock rubber. Why do you like the rubber better? Is it a better ride? I am at the point I am replacing all front and back bushings and have been thinking way to much on this. My car will not be a racer. Dennis

jb78L-82

I am interested in responses as well since my OEM 78 C3 with the original TA bushings and rear wheel bearings will need to have the TA's rebuilt soon...should have done this all ready but I have been holding off since it is a PIA. I have spoken extensively about the rubber versus poly dilemma for a few years with the resident forum expert and rebuilder, Gary Ramadei, GTR1999, and he does NOT use poly bushings since he told me that poly is good for many applications but TA's is not good in this location according to Gray due to the movement plane of the TA's.

I have poly front upper and lower control arm bushings with zero issues for over 10 years now (not sure how this application is different than the TA's), poly end link and sway bar mounting bushings, poly rear composite spring end cushings (30 years now) and poly rear strut rod bushings that were perfect when I replaced the rear strut rods with competition adjustable heim jointed struts about 10-12 years ago. I have had great success with poly bushings eliminating suspension unwanted movements and the improvement in handling and steering response with very little ride degradation....

I would like to use poly TA bushings but I am hesitant based on Gary's conversations. Hopefully, Gary will chime in since I trust his opinion.

Gary, where art thou? Please comment..............

Stephen Irons

Gary did actually reply to my original question in the "hijacked" thread, here: https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...ng-source.html

As you said, he's not a fan of poly bushings. And, he's one of the guys on here who's opinion I respect....

Stephen Irons

Brian, thanks for that! I'm sure if it comes to it, I'll be asking for a LOT of detail on the job!

0Willcox Corvette

I'll toss in my 2 cents on this...

BINGO. pictures speak a thousand words.

We won't install poly in our shop and for the exact reason shown in the picture above.

Multiple reasons.

The bushing in the front of the arm is supposed to have give and installing poly takes the give out of the front of the arm (as shown in the picture, the resulting damage can be even more extensive than shown). I have three c3 cars and I would never put poly in them.

A hard bushing has no give so replacing suspension products that were designed to have give will only produce a harder riding car.

See the thread on the damage a poly snubber cushion can do to your snubber bracket on the frame. https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1595266387

If you are going to road race a car then by all means I'd do poly but if you are going to drive a car and enjoy it, I would only use rubber. It'll last you longer.

I know.... rubber requires the removal of the arm and a means to flare the sleeve, but if you have the front bolt out, how much harder is it to remove the arm. The flare tool can be fabricated or purchased fairly cheap.

Okay.. back to my corner of the round room.

IMHO,

Willcox

Dennis Tapp

Wilcox, from your above statements I take it that you prefer rubber in the front A-arms also. If this is correct would you use poly on the sway bars or rubber everywhere? Dennis

Kubs

I am against poly for the reasons listed here already. The trailing arm mount points as well as the strut rods move in multiple planes. If it was purely a pivot joint it would be ok. If you use poly and then start twisting it while rotating you can:

A) Destroy the bushing
B) Destroy the trailing arm
C) transfer too much force into something else that will give way

All the forces that go into twisting that bushing while trying to rotate need to be added into the suspension equation. Its like an added spring rate, but through binding not free movement.

I personally am going to install spherical bearings in mine when I rebuild my control arms, but I plan to track my car as well. For cool street cruisers and hot rods stick with rubber. The binding is still there, but much less extreme.

jb78L-82

The bushing in the front of the arm is supposed to have give and installing poly takes the give out of the front of the arm (as shown in the picture, the resulting damage can be even more extensive than shown). I have three c3 cars and I would never put poly in them

I agree with Willcox on this statement which concurs with Gary's comments as well^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

I can tell you though from many years now with poly front upper and lower control arm bushings that I would never go back to rubber control arm bushings....There is simply too much slop in general with a C3 suspension and anything you can do to eliminate or minimize unwanted suspension movement is a BIG plus for handling, steering, AND RIDE...NOT for racing but street driving! There was little to no degradation in the ride after I installed the poly control arm bushings about 10-12 years ago..NONE! BIG IMPROVMENT in all other suspension dynamics.

I can also tell you that having heim jointed rear strut rods ( no bushings) was/is a GIGANTIC improvement over the rubber strut rods in the rear. I have not been in a C3 that rides better with lightening sharp handling and steering response with a firm but very compliant ride than my C3.

From another thread on this issue recently from me:

I posted this on my 78 L-82 4 speed in September...

I have a 78 L-82 4 speed car with the gymkhana sport suspension (67,000 miles) that I have owned for 34 years and I have tinkered with the suspension one part at a time over all those years to achieve the perfect balance of superb handling, steering response and a firm but not harsh ride. Not knowing if you have a base suspension (most likely since most did not have the sport suspension from the factory) or the sport suspension, below is what you need for truly sportscar handling with a great ride for your 78:

Front:

550 lbs front coil springs/1 inch lower than stock-$100
1 1/8 inch solid front sway bar (OEM Bar size)-$200
poly upper and lower control arm bushings-$50
Bilstein HD shocks-$150
Front Spreader Bar-$100
Custom blueprinted/rebuilt OEM steering box- GTR 1999-Gary Ramadei-$300

Rear:

360 monospring-$300
Bilstein Sport shocks-$150
OEM Style Rear Sway bar (not the aftermarket type bars. I highly discourage NON OEM/GM style rear sway bars)-7/16 or 9/16 or 3/4 inch (I have this one replacing the stock 7/16 inch bar)-$200
Competition adjustable strut rods with heim joint ends-$200

Total Cost $1750

This suspension will get you a FAR SUPERIOR suspension than what came on the car when it was new, X3 if the car had a base suspension from the factory. You will need to add 17/18 inch rims and tires (ZR rated only W/Y sub rating) later to maximize the superior suspension setup. I have ultra high performance summer only tires Front-255/45/17 ZR and rears 255/50/17 ZR's.

As for the heim joint adjustable struts...makes the rear end feel more planted since there is much less camber changing under a load and has little to no detrimental effect on the ride quality.....................One of the best value upgrades you can make to the suspension....front spreader bar would be #1

0Willcox Corvette

I won't install poly in anything unless the customer signs a sign off sheet and I really don't like doing it then.

Like I said above, if your road racing the car and don't care then go with it, but if you building a daily driver stick with the rubber.

IMHO,

Willcox