Muzzyzx7rr

I know I could of rebuilt the heads and stroked it etc etc but I think this is gonna be light years ahead of the smogger it was before.

454 .030 over
rebuilt but stock 781 heads
holley 750cfm 4150 dp
performer rpm airgap
crane race extruded gold rocker arms
comp cams XR264HR-10 extreme energy cam
icon premium forged piston -38cc dome
Stock converter.
Stock rods and crank.

What do you guys think?

ajrothm

I like everything besides the cam.... The cam is TINY... That thing will be done by 4800 rpms...

For reference, I have an old school Comp 270H (224*@.050")flat tappet in a 9.0-1 461" with mildly ported 215s and a Performer intake, its very torquey and great for burn outs, then it rolls over and dies after 5000... It would be a great tow truck motor.

You need more cam....lots more... Even with a stock converter, I'd stay in the mid to upper 220*s on the intake lobe.

Since you are going roller, get the Isky 228 HYD roller that VortecPro uses..Especially since you are putting good pistons in it and getting the compression up.

Or maybe something like this mild Crane HR if you are wanting to really stay MILD...
HR-222/339-2S-10 IG
1600-5400
222/230*@.050
.576/.598" lift
110 LSA

Muzzyzx7rr

Thanks for the heads up I just called comp cams and that’s what they recommended. Obviously they don’t know. Do you have a part number for oaky cam?

Muzzyzx7rr

thats the hard part about cams, he said that was the biggest cam with stock converter but what is the REAL biggest cam or I should say what is going to give me the most power where I need it. Last thing I want to do is change camshafts 10 times.

Muzzyzx7rr

Is this it?

Muzzyzx7rr

Grind no rr275/284

ajrothm

The Isky 228/238 is gonna want SOME converter to idle smoothly in gear I would think.

Its not apples to apples comparison since a roller typically requires less degrees then a flat tappet to get the job done since the ramp rates are so much more aggressive, so its hard to compare idle characteristics to a similarly sized flat tappet....There is just a lot of other variables involved.

The cam Comp recommended will certainly work for a stock converter, smooth idle, lots of vacuum etc... But its gonna run out of steam fast, especially with stock heads.

I'd talk to Crane/Isky/Bullet etc....

CStraub from Straub Tech also does custom ground HR cams based on YOUR combo, this may not be a bad idea for you. I have one of his 237/245 HR cams in a 396 that made 441hp.. I'm sure he could come up with something for you that will idle with the stock converter and still make some power.

If you would put a mild 11" converter in it, it would open a lot of opportunity for you.

Muzzyzx7rr

if I were to change converter what else would I have to change? Just torque converter?

Muzzyzx7rr

See what I mean lol....just when I thought I was done with the cam it haunts me again....

ajrothm

With any converter, you will need to add a transmission cooler. About another $150 for a good one.

You'll want a good quality converter though...No Jegs/Summit house brand stuff....It will slip like crazy all the time.

A good converter will barely feel looser then stock when driving normal. This will allow the car to idle smoothly in gear, AC on etc...

I understand the stock converter thing though if you are looking for the most efficiency and fuel mileage.

The performance gains with a good converter though can not be beat, dollar for dollar. A good converter is the difference from 14.0 in the 1/4 mile to 13.40 in the 1/4 in a stock car.

Converter:
http://ftiperformance.com/Economy-St...-TH400-ESR.htm

Call them, tell them your combo....They'll likely spec the 2600 for you. They custom build everything. Their quality and customer service is excellent.

Here is the trans cooler I use...
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/b..._-srese2-_-b-m

Muzzyzx7rr

Like this one?

ajrothm

Naw...

See my post above... I sent you links.

Muzzyzx7rr

can I drive that around town nicely?

Grumpy 427

What is the purpose of this car? is it going to be a daily driver that you want to go out and burn the tires once in a while, or are you looking for a track car?

A 454 responds well to a cam intake carb and headers. With stock converter and gears, stay with a Vac secondary carb, .550 lift with .235/.245 Dur at .050 and a 1-7/8 primary tube header. Dual plane intake. motor will run to 5500 rpm. minimum 3.55 gears. If the motor is coming out, buy a B&M 2500 stall 10" converter, will drive like a regular converter and flash into the torque under hard acceleration. Recurve distributor to have 32-34 total timing in by 3000 rpm.

Muzzyzx7rr

street use but want the potential. Seems converter is the only thing holding me back from a good cam setup.

Muzzyzx7rr

Also grumpy, 350 is coming out along with trans so be kinda dumb not to change it I think.

Grumpy 427

Yes well for this combo an off the shelf 10" street fighter converter will work. 2500-2800 stall will get that behind a decent 454.

ajrothm

The FTI converter will drive great, you’ll barely notice it’s there. Call FTI, give them the specs of the car/engine, they’ll build the converter for you.

The converter is not only holding you back on your cam choice, it’s also holding you back on a LOT of performance, especially if you ever think you’ll take it down the track or do some dig runs on the street.

I would not use an off the shelf converter from any company, especially B&M or TCI, those are the ones that are sloppy around town.

I just put an off the shelf Hughes GM25 converter (2500 stall) in my dad’s 70 Nova with a mild 355 and it’s quite a bit looser then I figured I would be, and that’s with 3.73 gears which tightens it up some. I like the feel as it’s a little aggressive

If you are running the factory 3.08 gears, you have to be careful with converter selection so it’s not sloppy and inefficient, wasting power and fuel mileage.

FTI, PTC, Ultimate Converters are all decent brands with fair pricing. I prefer FTI.

Also, I could put you in touch with the local guy here that built my converter. It was $300 and drives excellent around town, even with 3.36 gears and 28” tires.....it’s a good compromise for street and a little strip action.

derekderek

38cc domes? 11:1 pump gas street engine with iron heads? they say each point of compression is worth 3% power output. i think the 13.5 dome 9:1 setup is more what you need while giving up about 20 hp at full throttle. and you aren't going to be spending that much time at full throttle, believe me. only place you can use it for more than 5 seconds is interstate on-ramps... also look into what those 781's need. 40 years of guide and wear and replacing the seats cuz you opened the valves up to 2.19-1.88 which means the hardened face is gone and you are close to the price of new bare GM rectangle port heads. yes. you have to have the rocker studs drilled-tapped from 3/8 to 7/16th studs. and you are buying new valves, springs, etc either way. and the intake is the same price whether rect or oval. i think the air gap is too tall for the hood.

Vortecpro

My modifications are based around using a very competent machine shop

.060 bore
Zero deck
Mahle 28 cc piston dome cut down/or not based on your altitude
1.880/2.190 valves
Index and set stroke 4.00, cut 1/2 off counter weights
Isky 218/228 hyd roller
Performer air gap intake
QF 850 vac sec

This will work with your stock converter, and I might add it will hit it like a savage