ZO6 on the way what's my next step?
01-15-2018, 03:29 PM
#1
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ZO6 on the way what's my next step?
ZO6 on the way what's my next step????? I just purchased a 2016 ZO6 with 12k miles online being shipped by the dealer thru transport broker. What's my next step after delivery? Should I get an alignment? General service? Oil change?
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Gonzo (01-17-2018)
01-15-2018, 06:00 PM
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the dam car can & will get away from you man. Have fun & be safe in her...Robert
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Panth3r (01-17-2018)
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Panth3r (01-17-2018)
01-15-2018, 06:42 PM
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If you’re buying from some kind of dealership have them get a printout of what maintenance/warranty work was performed at a Chevy dealership. This is important to maintain warranty. Certainly having it seen by your local Chevy dealer for an oil/filter change if it needs it is wise, along with an alignment, etc. if that hasn’t been done either.
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Panth3r (01-17-2018)
01-15-2018, 07:06 PM
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DC? Pray for spring
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Panth3r (01-17-2018)
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Panth3r (01-17-2018)
01-15-2018, 07:26 PM
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I plan to take it easy don’t want to hurt myself or my dream car.
01-15-2018, 07:29 PM
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Gonzo (01-17-2018)
01-15-2018, 07:31 PM
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If you’re buying from some kind of dealership have them get a printout of what maintenance/warranty work was performed at a Chevy dealership. This is important to maintain warranty. Certainly having it seen by your local Chevy dealer for an oil/filter change if it needs it is wise, along with an alignment, etc. if that hasn’t been done either.
I have the CARFAX although there weren’t any major issues it didn’t have much for maintenance records.
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Gonzo (01-17-2018)
01-15-2018, 07:33 PM
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Gonzo (01-17-2018)
01-15-2018, 08:05 PM
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Finalist 2020 C7 of the Year -- Unmodified
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Panth3r (01-17-2018)
01-15-2018, 10:12 PM
#15
01-15-2018, 10:13 PM
#16
01-15-2018, 10:53 PM
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Gonzo (01-17-2018)
01-15-2018, 11:39 PM
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12k Z06? Take the VIN to your local Chevy dealer and make sure it doesn't have warranty blocks on drivetrain, steering, brakes and suspension. Seriously, do it before it arrives.
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Panth3r (01-17-2018)
01-16-2018, 05:53 AM
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Great advice!!!!! It doesn’t actually ship for a couple days. I’ll be sure to get that done this am.
EDIT: Called dealership with VIN everything is still under warranty
EDIT: Called dealership with VIN everything is still under warranty
Last edited by Panth3r; 01-17-2018 at 07:36 AM.
01-16-2018, 01:11 PM
#20
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12K over two years is below average mileage for a typical car. For a Corvette it is on the higher side. I try to use mine fairly regularly and do put a lot of track time on the car but I just barely turned over 9K miles after 26 months of ownership. I don't think 12 means much other than the owner had a chance to drive the car more often than other Corvette owners do.
Things you can do to check the car over:
Take a look through the wheels at the brake pads in the calipers. If they look thick they probably are in good condition. This doesn't check the inside pad which might wear a little faster but if the outside pad looks good the inside pad is more than likely good.
Check the inside edges of the tires to see how they are worn. You can use a tread depth gauge to check each tread line around the tire and see if the inside line is worn more than the outside line. If so the toe may need to be adjusted. You need to do that front and rear.
Get your self a two foot long digital laser level. A Sears Craftsman works great if you can find a Sears store to purchase it from. Use the level to do a cursory check on your wheel alignment. Get the car on a level surface across the width of the car. Don't worry about along the length of the car. Then turn on the digital level and place it vertically on each tire and read the camber. When placing the level on the tire do it off center so the level isn't touching the tire bulge at the bottom where the tire is sitting on the ground. If your camber is less than 1 degree at all 4 wheels you more than likely don't need to get the alignment adjusted. A good setting would be between 0.7 and 0.8. After doing that drive the car on a 4 lane divided road and see how the steering is in both the left and right lanes. See how it feels as you cross from one lane to the other. Keep a constant speed while doing this. I like to release the steering wheel and drive the car at the speed limit and see how long it takes before the car drifts to the side of the road when driving on a straight road.
If the tire wear looks even, the camber looks good and you feel comfortable driving the car then you more than likely don't need to pay for an alignment.
Check the dry sump oil level to see if it is in the middle of the cross hatched to the top dot on the dip stick. If the level is at the top dot then the system is full with 9.8 quarts of oil. Before checking oil level set the driver information gauges so you can read oil temperature in a digital format (numbers not lines) and idle the engine/drive the car until the OIL Temperature NOT Coolant is 175 degrees. Shut off the engine, wait 5 minutes and check the oil. If you go past 10 minutes before checking the oil restart the engine and get the oil temp above 175 before shutting it off. Then wait the 5 minutes. Not following the procedure can result in a very wrong oil level reading.
When driving the car if the brake pedal feels spongy you may need to bleed the brakes.
Bill
Things you can do to check the car over:
Take a look through the wheels at the brake pads in the calipers. If they look thick they probably are in good condition. This doesn't check the inside pad which might wear a little faster but if the outside pad looks good the inside pad is more than likely good.
Check the inside edges of the tires to see how they are worn. You can use a tread depth gauge to check each tread line around the tire and see if the inside line is worn more than the outside line. If so the toe may need to be adjusted. You need to do that front and rear.
Get your self a two foot long digital laser level. A Sears Craftsman works great if you can find a Sears store to purchase it from. Use the level to do a cursory check on your wheel alignment. Get the car on a level surface across the width of the car. Don't worry about along the length of the car. Then turn on the digital level and place it vertically on each tire and read the camber. When placing the level on the tire do it off center so the level isn't touching the tire bulge at the bottom where the tire is sitting on the ground. If your camber is less than 1 degree at all 4 wheels you more than likely don't need to get the alignment adjusted. A good setting would be between 0.7 and 0.8. After doing that drive the car on a 4 lane divided road and see how the steering is in both the left and right lanes. See how it feels as you cross from one lane to the other. Keep a constant speed while doing this. I like to release the steering wheel and drive the car at the speed limit and see how long it takes before the car drifts to the side of the road when driving on a straight road.
If the tire wear looks even, the camber looks good and you feel comfortable driving the car then you more than likely don't need to pay for an alignment.
Check the dry sump oil level to see if it is in the middle of the cross hatched to the top dot on the dip stick. If the level is at the top dot then the system is full with 9.8 quarts of oil. Before checking oil level set the driver information gauges so you can read oil temperature in a digital format (numbers not lines) and idle the engine/drive the car until the OIL Temperature NOT Coolant is 175 degrees. Shut off the engine, wait 5 minutes and check the oil. If you go past 10 minutes before checking the oil restart the engine and get the oil temp above 175 before shutting it off. Then wait the 5 minutes. Not following the procedure can result in a very wrong oil level reading.
When driving the car if the brake pedal feels spongy you may need to bleed the brakes.
Bill