Thoughts on value with mechanical issues
#1
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Thoughts on value with mechanical issues
I have a 2009 base 3LT Corvette with ~169k miles on the clock. My clutch was getting pretty gravelly, and I was expecting it to fail - overdue at that mileage! Suddenly something broke and I took it in to be fixed. Long story, but they ended up changing the drive shaft and clutch and fixing "leaking" transmission lines. Turns out the thing that broke was the transmission lines, and it wasn't just a leak, it was really bad - the transmission fluid basically all leaked out...
Having spent $$$ on a new clutch (albeit it was nearly done), I now have a whining transmission, so something in there is damaged. I'm having a bit of an argument with the dealer, as had I known that the transmission could have been damaged, I'd have got them to fix the lines first. I'd want to see if there was more damage before I did anything else, as I suspect my car was worth less than the combined clutch + transmission rework. Grr. So, the question I have is, what do you guys think the value of the car would have been (either for sale or just parts) if I had a clutch that was on the verge of failing, and it had a whining transmission? It's in pretty decent shape otherwise. Thanks!
Having spent $$$ on a new clutch (albeit it was nearly done), I now have a whining transmission, so something in there is damaged. I'm having a bit of an argument with the dealer, as had I known that the transmission could have been damaged, I'd have got them to fix the lines first. I'd want to see if there was more damage before I did anything else, as I suspect my car was worth less than the combined clutch + transmission rework. Grr. So, the question I have is, what do you guys think the value of the car would have been (either for sale or just parts) if I had a clutch that was on the verge of failing, and it had a whining transmission? It's in pretty decent shape otherwise. Thanks!
#2
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St. Jude Donor '15
"In honor of jpee"
Very wild guess but I'd say maybe in the $8-10K range, maybe? I know that sounds low but with the semi-known things wrong, the noise, plus the things that at 169K miles on the clock that could be wrong or going out soon, that's my guess.
As to fixing lines first by knowing what was wrong, I suppose it really depends on what instructions you gave to the shop in the very beginning. I don't know if that one is "win-able." That's up to you.
As to fixing lines first by knowing what was wrong, I suppose it really depends on what instructions you gave to the shop in the very beginning. I don't know if that one is "win-able." That's up to you.
#3
Instructor
I'm lost how did you not see a gear oil leak or as you call it a trans fluid line leak. I also thought the only lines for transmission we're for a cooler up front on a manual gear box??? Help me get straight.
With those issues I would only expect at least 2k less than low trade in from NADA.
With those issues I would only expect at least 2k less than low trade in from NADA.
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Thanks guys.
The transmission coolant line went suddenly while I was driving, and suddenly sounded awful. I couldn't see anything externally when I stopped, but wasn't able to pull over for a mile or so, and then took it in straight away. I likely won;t get anywhere, but I'm not at all happy with the feedback they gave me. They actually claim that the transmission whine is a different noise from the one I bought it in to be fixed (the reason listed on the paperwork for being brought in). It's clearly not - just a quieter version, now that the coolant is back at the right level.
The transmission coolant line went suddenly while I was driving, and suddenly sounded awful. I couldn't see anything externally when I stopped, but wasn't able to pull over for a mile or so, and then took it in straight away. I likely won;t get anywhere, but I'm not at all happy with the feedback they gave me. They actually claim that the transmission whine is a different noise from the one I bought it in to be fixed (the reason listed on the paperwork for being brought in). It's clearly not - just a quieter version, now that the coolant is back at the right level.
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NADA lists ~$8800 as "rough" condition, their lowest category, so if the above is right, perhaps it'd be worth ~$6k in that state
#7
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Thank you for explaining now makes sense. Since you are in this deep you could try rebuilding trans yourself if you have room and the tools. Me personally I would fix myself always up for a challenge.
Or call copart and sell to them it still runs and drives has clean title I've seen them sell for outrageous prices on their auction site.
Or call copart and sell to them it still runs and drives has clean title I've seen them sell for outrageous prices on their auction site.
#8
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2022 C6 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
So if I am reading this right you have a new torque tube and clutch? Now you need a transmission? Either have your transmission rebuilt or find a used transmission and have it installed. It sounds like you are unable to do any of this work yourself? You are going to have to get a price on the repair and decide if the car is worth it or not but my initial feeling is the car has enough value to warrant the transmission repair.
#9
Race Director
In the upper Midwest where I live we've outfits called 'Engine/Transmission Exchanges'.
Larger population areas w/could see 'em more than rural, tho' one has to check.
IF they've a totally rebuilt C6 transmission, or have access to one they're reasonably priced. Drop old one, replace.
Org xmission's required to be returned, so a 'core charge' is involved.
Not a big deal since most ETEs can do install, so core's there.
New clutch, TT and tranny provides for a reliable ride for another 170K. *Providing, routine maint/oil/brakes/tires are followed.
Unless $ isn't an issue it's a hellova lot less $ than acquiring a new vehicle; which, probably w/couldn't deliver near the performance & satisfaction a LS3/C6 does, anyway. YMMV
Larger population areas w/could see 'em more than rural, tho' one has to check.
IF they've a totally rebuilt C6 transmission, or have access to one they're reasonably priced. Drop old one, replace.
Org xmission's required to be returned, so a 'core charge' is involved.
Not a big deal since most ETEs can do install, so core's there.
New clutch, TT and tranny provides for a reliable ride for another 170K. *Providing, routine maint/oil/brakes/tires are followed.
Unless $ isn't an issue it's a hellova lot less $ than acquiring a new vehicle; which, probably w/couldn't deliver near the performance & satisfaction a LS3/C6 does, anyway. YMMV
#10
Race Director
Very wild guess but I'd say maybe in the $8-10K range, maybe? I know that sounds low but with the semi-known things wrong, the noise, plus the things that at 169K miles on the clock that could be wrong or going out soon, that's my guess.
As to fixing lines first by knowing what was wrong, I suppose it really depends on what instructions you gave to the shop in the very beginning. I don't know if that one is "win-able." That's up to you.
As to fixing lines first by knowing what was wrong, I suppose it really depends on what instructions you gave to the shop in the very beginning. I don't know if that one is "win-able." That's up to you.
#11
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C6 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
I just did a KBB check for a '09 coupe with no options, good condition, and 169K miles. The mid private party value was $12K. I re-checked it with the only change being 269K miles and the value was $10.8K. And then one more time with only 69K miles with a value of $18.7K.
Since you do tend to drive more miles than average Vette owners and obviously enjoy the car, this might make your decision easier.
Let's suppose you spend $1K to fix/replace the trans to put your car in that "good condition" KBB range. That means you could drive it another 100K miles and the value would drop $1.2K. The other option would be to sell it for the now "good condition" price of $12K and purchase an identical car with 100K less miles for $18.7K.
The cost for option 1 is $1.2K over the next 5 years/100K miles.
The cost for option 2 is $6.7K over the next 5 years/100K miles.
Each option will have approximately the same maintenance issues, however, you just paid for the major issue (plus the trans fix) if you choose option 1, while that cost will arrive at the end of the next 100K miles when choosing option 2.
I'm at 151K miles and facing similar expenses with my '08. My plan is to spend about $2K to get 2 more years/30K miles out of it. Then de-mod and sell it. I do all my own work, which makes the cost lower.
Good luck with your choice.
Since you do tend to drive more miles than average Vette owners and obviously enjoy the car, this might make your decision easier.
Let's suppose you spend $1K to fix/replace the trans to put your car in that "good condition" KBB range. That means you could drive it another 100K miles and the value would drop $1.2K. The other option would be to sell it for the now "good condition" price of $12K and purchase an identical car with 100K less miles for $18.7K.
The cost for option 1 is $1.2K over the next 5 years/100K miles.
The cost for option 2 is $6.7K over the next 5 years/100K miles.
Each option will have approximately the same maintenance issues, however, you just paid for the major issue (plus the trans fix) if you choose option 1, while that cost will arrive at the end of the next 100K miles when choosing option 2.
I'm at 151K miles and facing similar expenses with my '08. My plan is to spend about $2K to get 2 more years/30K miles out of it. Then de-mod and sell it. I do all my own work, which makes the cost lower.
Good luck with your choice.