63splitter

Well, I finally built up the courage to yank the steering column and steering gear box out of my my '60 and have the box rebuilt - everything in there is 58 years old now. I previous adjusted everything according to the service manual and put steering lube in the box but it still has pretty lumpy steering with a catch at the very top. I have replaced the 17 inch steering wheel with a 15 inch one to make it easier to get in and out of the car and perhaps that is adding to my problem. I read all the posts of switching over to a Steeroids setup or a complete front end replacement setup with coil-overs but I decided to stay stock. I sure would like to have power steering and a collapsible steering column, but I'll just rebuild the original one right now and see what I get (I just won't hit anything with the front end of the car so that I don't get impaled by the non-collapsible steering column).

I followed the service manual for removing the box and column and it was pretty straight forward. I did have to take off the hood and the front 2 spark plugs to get clearance for getting the box and pitman out. The only other thing the book left out is that you have to temporarily slip the steering wheel back on in order to turn the wheel and move the pitman arm forward in order to pull the last through bolt out (make sure the pitman arm is disconnected from the steering arm before you turn the steering wheel so that your wheels stay straight). Also remember to turn the wheel back after the bolt is out so that you keep everything the way it was before you started.

The job took about 8 hours and other than 2 neighbors to help get the hood off, I did the job myself.

The box and gear box is over at Bob Ore Restorations (we're lucky to have a guy who is nationally famous for rebuilding Bloomington Gold Corvettes right here in Erie) and he's going to tear into the box and see what all needs replaced). If you're looking for someone to rebuild your box you might want to give him a call - he's at many shows around the east coast and you could drop off your column there to save shipping.

Once I get the column and box back, I'll install it and will add a follow-on post with the results. If you've been putting up with sloppy steering in your C1, know that the job to remove it is not all that hard.

Rick Hinman - Erie, PA

SDVette

I did the same with my '61 2 years ago. 135K miles on the original.

After the rebuild, it was a DRAMATIC improvement in steering..
I am also using a 15 inch steering wheel -- no problems at all.

68hemi

I just had mine done in the 57 and i also have the repo type 15" wheel. I also shortened the steering column 2" by using a 58 column shaft.

I am experiencing a little problem with the wheel not wanting to come back on it's own after a turn and will be experimenting with some adjustments. Anyone have any experience with this?

emccomas

Do you have the aluminum caster shims in place between the front cross member and the frame?

How recent was an alignment done on the car?

Caster and toe-in (if I recall correctly) will impact steering wheel return.

SDVette

That's how mine was BEFORE the rebuild.

Be careful if you plan to adjust the steering box.
An overtight adjustment can cause rapid wear..
Hopefully that's not the case now.

If the box is not binding, I agree that the alignment should be checked.

68hemi

Not sure about this but I will check.

No, I have not yet had a front end alignment done. A series of things has prevented this such as rebuilding the entire front end including A arm bushings and 3rd arm bearing. My NEW 3rd arm bearing is sloppy in the housing and it is in the shop now having set screws installed to keep it in place. Then hopefully I will finally be able to get it aligned.

1snake

If it was rebuilt and adjusted correctly, the issue would be the caster setting. Having rebuilt many of these boxes over the years, it's VERY important that the box be adjusted with EVERYTHING disconnected and using a 0-30 in. lb. dial reading torque wrench.

68hemi

It was rebuilt per a instructional video and help from Joe Calcagno

GTOguy

That was my first thought, as well. The less caster, the less return. The more, the better the return to straight. Likely nothing to do with the gearbox, unless it's binding badly....but you'd feel that.

63splitter

1 thing about Joe’s instructions on removing the steering column / he says to remove the brake and clutch pedal assembly which was not necessary to do.

68hemi

I had mine done when I had the engine out of the car so it made it much easier to remove and reinstall.

1snake

If you didn't do it yourself, how do you know it was done correctly? If you heard the stories from Gary R. about steering boxes sent to him that were supposedly rebuilt by "professionals", you'd understand why I asked this.

68hemi

My mechanic lives and works a few blocks from my home. He has been doing work for me for quite some time. I know him well and trust him. I can drop in On him on Without notice at any time.

MGe56s

I rebuilt the steering gear for my 1956 Corvette, following the directions in the kit and the Corvette Servicing Manual. It is reinstalled, but now the pitman arm doesn't properly align with the drag link. The ***** on the pitman arm and the third arm are about 2" too close with the steering wheel centered between stops. Is there an adjustment/alignment procedure to ensure the flats on the sector shaft are in a better position for the pitman arm? There was no mention in the instructions or the Guide about such pre-alignment. All other adjustments are within spec.

I am going to try the next flats position on the sector gear next. If it is off - it looks like it will be 2" the other way -the steering gear will come back out this weekend. Any suggestions will be appreciated.

jcchevy

Just did a rebuild on my 62 with all new internals. I went through the manual (and several videos) to get the the “high point” on center (~ 2 1/4 turns from either side). The total turns were ~4.5. When I did this, I marked the center on the steering shaft with tape (new shaft). When I installed the box with the tires straight forward, the pitman arm went on very well and I was almost dead on for the drag link. With the tires straight forward and the third arm aligned according to the manual, it should line up with very little effort. Probably not much help just letting you know my experience.

TheCar

[QUOTE=MGe56s]
I rebuilt the steering gear for my 1956 Corvette, following the directions in the kit and the Corvette Servicing Manual.

to MGe56s check this thread:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...questions.html
see post #3 may help.

solidaxel

Tell me about "shortening" the steering shaft/column

MGe56s

Thanks! Looks like I'm taking the box back out. I had not centered the sector shaft, so the steering shaft couldn't be aligned correctly. Luckily the engine is still out and I've got it on a lift...

68hemi

For my 57 you use a 58 rebuild kit that has a 2" shorter column shaft and then simply cut the mast ( steering shaft cover) 2". It was a common thing do on racers back in the day and in fact it was done on the factory racers for the Nassau and Sebring cars. It makes it a little easier to "wheel" the car.

emccomas

A better option might be to just install a 58-62 steering column. That way you are not permanently damaging an original 53-57 steering column.

I know a lot of those columns got shortened over the years.

These original 58-62 steering columns are really dirt cheap.

I installed a 1960 column in my 56 many years ago. The 60 column worked great, and gave me the room I needed.

The 56 is long gone, but I still have the 56 column.